- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
? 2:12 www.youtube.com/watch?v=xU6ybiY3F4I Sep 1, 2010 - Uploaded by 76bluemoon
Back lift gate/glass would not open or release. ... Wow, are you sure? .... known issue with tahoe, suburbans, hummers and othergmc vehicles. ... 2007-2012 Yukon Denali Rear Door Lock Actuator Replacement ... 2004 GMC Yukon XL rear liftgateremoval - Duration: 50:17. by Velvethamma 5,814 views.
Very common problem on these door handles(my 99 Chevy work truck went through 7 of these).rockauto.com has them for a reasonable price,not too hard to replace.I got so fed up with the handle breaking off that I made a replacement out of steel(I probably open the door 200 times in an average work day).
I recently answered this problem for someone else....If you can't find it here is what I found on my 1999 suburban .....The door lock actuator was bad, while i was replacing the actuator i noticed that the rod that goes from the keyed cylinder lock to the actuator was on enough of a bind that it was near impossible to lock and or unlock the door either with a key or the new actuator........the solution for me was to add a 3/4" spacer between the actuator mounting bracket and the door, also lubed the joints that were associated with the lock assy. hope this helps!
I just bought a 1999 Suburban and all of the door lock actuators were bad including the rear (barn style door) while I was replacing the rear door acuator I noticed that even with the factory mounting bracket on the actuator it was causing the door lock rod (the rod from the keyed cylinder lock to the actuator) was on a bind......the solution I came up with is adding an additional 3/4" spacer between the factory mount bracket and the door attach point. this solved any binding and the door lock works great now........also I used a lubricant on all the doors where the rods run through the plastic guides, which seemed to help quite a bit! Hope this help's.
I just had the same problem. Can you still hear the electric power lock operating and clicking? If yes, it's easy to fix. Get the window down, so you can se the actuator motor through the gap and most likely the metal arm which connects to the lock felt just about half an inch down through the actuators connection. There is a little round hole at the end of the actuator where the arm is supposed to go through. The arm operating the lock is running just below the motor all the way through the door. This happens a lot when the silly plastic connection to the inside door button felt apart and got lost (AMERICAN MADE ...haha). The inside button doesn't operate anymore and the little steel arm is hanging free and is only connected to the actuator motor's arm through a little whole with some rubber. With enough vibration and door slamming it might eventually become loose and fall down, leaving the actuator working but not connected to the lock... Now, just get an old coat hanger, bend the wire like a hook and pull the arm below the actuator towards the front. The door will be unlocked. Now loosen the screws on the door handle and remove the clip on frame around the inside handle. Then carefully pull out the door panel starting at the bottom, then the sides (it's a little hard to get out - be careful not to brake the plastic parts). Once it's loose, push it upwards - it's sitting on the window frame. You can access everything easily now and reconnect the arm through the hole at the end of the actuator. Secure it with some cable binder around the top if you want - if the little connection knob on top of the steel arm is wrapped in a cable binder, it won't fall down again. Check if it works, put it back together, DONE!
Followed owners manual for emergency opening of rear window glass. Removed upholstery panel from the tailgate once glass was opened. Found a broke (plastic) actuator arm on the actuating motor. Ordered new one for replacement.
there are separate actuators for the blend doors. one for heat and one for cool. they work opposite and in conjuction with each other, if that makes any sense. ones open, ones close, for each different climate. sounds like the the cold one isn't opening in the rear.