Question about 2006 Renault Fuego

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Can I detect a spark signal from the distributor without removing the spark plug (like using a stroboscope light)by using a multimeter?

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The easiest way is to pull the lead off the spark plug & put a screw driver where the spark plug goes star the engine & holding the screw driver by the plastic handle place the metal part about a quarter of an inch from any metal part of the engine & you should get a spark while the engine is running....hope this helps.....cheers

Posted on Jul 05, 2010

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  • Renault Master
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Yes you can, you will have to check the signal from the low tension side, the 12 volt to the oil side and also the High tension side that goes to the spark plugs. You can use a strobe clipped to each HT wire to give in the indication. Also you can use the multimeter but be careful to use the range properly.Helpful? good day

Posted on Jul 05, 2010


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1 Answer

How to set engine timing

the timing marks are on the crankshaft pulley. slightly loosen the distributor and use a stroboscopic timing light to pulse the correct setting...adjust distributor anti clockwise or clockwise to set. I f you are still running contact breakers please ensure these are set before doing timing.

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If theres no spark from the spark plugs then you would have to replace them?

Jul 12, 2008 | 1993 Toyota Corolla

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4hf1 engine timing marks

Mark the spark plug wires for the cylinder number using a short piece of masking tape on each wire. Remove all the spark plugs using the spark plug wrench. The engine will be easier to turn by hand with the spark plugs removed and it's a good time to replace them if required. Remove the valve cover from over the number one cylinder. On a V-block engine this is normally the valve cover on the driver's side. On in-line engines the number one cylinder is the one closest to the front of the car. Check your vehicle's specifications to be sure which cylinder is number one.

Rotate the engine clockwise and observe the valves on the number one cylinder. When both valves are in the up position, insert a screwdriver into the number one cylinder through the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine very slowly back and forth until the screwdriver is at the maximum height. This indicates the number one cylinder is at Top Dead Center or "TDC" on the compression stroke.

Locate the number one spark plug wire on distributor cap and make a tic-mark of this position with a marker pen on the distributor housing. Remove the distributor cap and observe the position of the rotor.

Loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn distributor until the rotor is lined up with the mark you made in Step 3. Your timing is now set to zero degrees of mechanical timing.

Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires using the marks from Step 1. You may want to mark the harmonic balancer with a zero point referenced to a fixed point on the engine. A fixed point could be a bolt head or accessory bracket that does not move when the engine is running. Later on this mark can be used as an indicator for stroboscopic timing.

Connect a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source. Most engines will have a port at the base of the carburetor or throttle body where a gauge can be connected. Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge reading.

Turn the distributor until the maximum vacuum gauge reading is noted. Back off one inch of vacuum from the maximum reading. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Normal readings average from 14 to 21 inches of vacuum depending on the condition of the engine.

Test drive the vehicle and listen for pinging noises. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 if excessive pinging is heard, or if there is a significant loss of power. The timing is correct when the vehicle operates at maximum power without the engine hard starting, backfiring, or pinging on acceleration.

Dec 05, 2013 | 1995 Isuzu Pickup

1 Answer

Show me timing marks on a 2.9 1990 ford bronco II

2.9liter engine?
there are 2 systems in the book, FSM.
DIS (there is no timing at all , it's fixed by the ECU) end story.

and then.
now the 1st quote
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Disconnect the pin-in-line connector (SPOUT connector) near the TFI module.
  3. Start the engine and measure the voltage, at idle, from the SPOUT connector to the distributor base. The reading should equal battery voltage.
  4. If the result is okay, the problem lies within the EEC-IV system.
  5. If the result was not satisfactory, separate the wiring harness connector from the ignition module. Check for damage, corrosion or dirt. Service as necessary.
  6. Measure the resistance between terminal No. 5 and the pin-in-line connector. This test is done at the ignition module connector only. The reading should be less than 5 ohms.
  7. If the reading is okay, replace the TFI module.
  8. If the result was not satisfactory, service the wiring between the pin in-line connector and the TFI connector.
if the above fails, the ECU can not control spark. timing.

underhood VECI label is specific to YOUR truck and should be used if it differs from another source
now the next quote 2

This procedure should not be used as a periodic maintenance adjustment. Timing should only be set after the distributor has been disturbed (removed and re-installed) in some way. If problems are encountered setting the initial timing with this procedure and no mechanical causes are found, follow the spark timing advance check procedure found later in this section.
Do not change the ignition timing by the use of a different octane rod without having the proper authority to do so. Federal emission requirements will be affected.
  1. Locate the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the front of the engine.
  2. Clean off the timing marks so that you can see them.
  3. Mark the timing marks with a piece of chalk or with paint. Color the mark on the scale that will indicate the correct timing when it is aligned with the mark on the pulley or the pointer. It is also helpful to mark the notch in the pulley or the tip of the pointer with a small dab of color.
  4. Start the engine and allow it to run until it reaches normal operating temperature.
CAUTION NEVER run an engine in a garage or building without proper ventilation. Carbon monoxide will quickly enter the body, excluding oxygen from the blood stream. This condition will cause dizziness, sleepiness and eventually death.
  1. Once normal operating temperature has been reached, shut the engine OFF.
  2. Firmly apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels. Place the transmission in P(A/T) or NEUTRAL(M/T, as applicable).
  3. Make sure heater and A/C, along with all other accessories are in the OFF position.
  4. Connect an inductive timing light, such as the Rotunda 059-00006 or equivalent, to the No. 1 spark plug wire, according the tool manufacturer's instructions.
  5. Connect a tachometer to the ignition coil connection using an alligator clip. This can be done by inserting the alligator clip into the back of the connector, onto the dark green/yellow dotted wire.
DO NOT allow the alligator clip to accidentally ground to a metal surface while attached to the coil connector as that could permanently damage the ignition coil.
  1. Disconnect the single wire in-line SPOUT connector which connects the control computer (usually terminal 36) to the ignition control module. This will prevent the electronic ignition from advancing the timing during the set procedure.
  2. Using a suitable socket or wrench, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt slightly at this time, BUT DO NOT ALLOW THE DISTRIBUTOR TO MOVE or timing will have to be set regardless of the current conditions.
A remote starter must NOT be used to start the vehicle when setting the initial ignition timing. Disconnecting the start wire at the starter relay will cause the ignition control module to revert to Start Mode timing after the vehicle is started. Reconnecting the start wire after the vehicle is running WILL NOT correct the timing.
  1. Start the engine (using the ignition key and NOT a remote starter to assure timing will be set correctly) and allow the engine to return to normal operating temperature.
  2. With the engine running at the specified rpm, check the initial timing. If adjustments must be made, rotate the distributor while watching the timing marks. Once proper adjustment has been reached, make sure the distributor is not disturbed until the hold-down bolt can be secured.
  3. Reconnect the single wire in-line SPOUT connector and check the timing to verify that the distributor is now advancing beyond the initial setting.
  4. Shut the engine OFF and tighten the distributor bolt while CAREFULLY holding the distributor from turning. If the distributor moves, you will have to start the engine and reset the timing.
  5. Restart the engine and repeat the procedure to check the timing and verify that it did not change
  6. Shut the engine OFF, then disconnect the tachometer and timing light.

and last one more quote "MARKS"
Timing marks consisting of O marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The mark(s) on the pulley correspond(s) to the position of the piston in the number 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) timing light is used, which is hooked into the circuit of the No. 1 cylinder spark plug. Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the timing light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read since the stroboscopic flash makes the pulley appear to be standing still. Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in proper alignment.

and last (open hood, look up, behold the USA fed EPA sticker
clearly stating the timing.
all 89s to present day.

Oct 08, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to fix 2010 BMW 128i cigarette lighter not working

When engine working, ECU according to the sensor signal is identified as a cylinder ignition,
The ignition signal instructions, ignition control ignition coils in the primary circuit
Electricity or without electricity. When the ignition coil primary power circuit, the secondary coil
Produced by high voltage transmission to distributor, distributor shall, in accordance with the engine ignition
Sequence, which in turn will give the high voltage transmission cylinder, spark plug, spark plug flame, lit
The mixture formation within the cylinder. This way of distribution according to distributor distribution way.
auto diagnostic tool.

Mar 30, 2013 | 2006 BMW 1 Series

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I have a 2001 Ford Expedition 4.6 4WD. Service engine soon light came on and when checked at parts store diagnostics said cylonder #2 miss firing. Is this a coil pack because we can't find plugs,...

If you do not see a distributor or spark plug wires, then you have a coil over plug system. Changing the coil pack is as easy as removing the hold down bolt and lifting the coil pack off the spark plug. Other things should be checked like signal to the coil, the fuel injector signal and the spark plug

Sep 05, 2010 | 2001 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

I have a Ford F-150 1990 Model. It doesn't seem to be getting fire to the sparkplugs. I just replaced the spark plug wires and spark plugs. What could be the problem? It is a V8.

Sounds like its a distributor. To test if its sparking at all take the plug wire and hold a screw driver and see if it arcs to the screw driver when you crank it. but heres the best way to diagnose it on your vehicle follow the following steps and let me know from there what happens.

1 Remove the spark plug wires one at a time and insert a small screw driver into the wire.(SEE WARNINGS) Be careful as you don’t want to get shocked with 60,000volts. Hold the wire so that the screw driver is 1/8” away from the engine. Have someone crank the engine and watch for a good white spark. If you have a good spark on all wires look for a problem with timing or something else. 2 Remove the distributor cap. Have someone crank the engine over with the distributor cap removed and observe if it is turning? That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one. If the distributor is not turning then likely you have a broken timing belt or chain. 3 Turn the ignition key on but don't crank the engine. Locate the positive or power wire attached to the engine coil. Using a test light check for power. If this has power, then the wiring from the ignition switch is OK. 4 Locate the negative or ground wire attached to the engine coil. Using a test light check for power. This sounds strange however, one end on a good battery ground and the other on the negative wire attached to the engine coil. The test light will light up indicating power on the negative side of the coil with the key on and engine off. 5 Have someone crank the engine while watching the test light. If you observe the test light flickering when cranking the engine and you have no spark, either the coil wire is faulty of the coil is dead. Test these using an Ohm meter.# If no flickering or pulsating was observed then check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens. This is the negative wire back to it's source, the ignition module. 6 Check the pulse generator in the distributor if it has a distributor cap. Some newer cars don’t have one,and if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. 7 With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. If this is observed then the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If no A/C signal is observed then you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor. 8 Know that if this part of the primary ignition tests OK then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. If wiring tests are OK. Suspect the ECM or computer as a last resort. edit
Be careful as you don’t want to get shocked with 60,000volts. be careful when checking the leads for sparks with a screwdriver doing it this way can cause very expensive damage on newer engins best use a spare spark plug or a proper tester for this job
Thanks, Midwest-tek

Aug 30, 2010 | 1990 Ford F150

2 Answers

I have no spark i replaced the spark plugs spark wires and the coil pack and still nothing my power distribution box is fine any ideas

Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead. (don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark. It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)

If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. Wiring tests ok. ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Sep 29, 2009 | 1992 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

Hello. my 4x4 1994 jeep grand cherokee with a 5.2 v8 stalls while driving and doesn't start. now it doesn't start at all, even after sitting for 2 days. i have read elsewhere that it could be the...

Crank sensor is definitely on the bellhousing but most I've seen are on the drivers side at about 11 o'clock looking from the rear. regardless of exact position, it has to be in line with the flywheel. I suggest you do the continuity test at its harness before removal. Access is generally from underneath and you can only work with one hand,... No distributor signal may however indicate that the pickup coil inside the distributor has failed (also called cam sensor) Your book should also list a test for that but I believe it is listed as a stator there.

Sep 26, 2009 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

3 Answers

Ignition system

I have the same model of car, and I have had this problem before. It is normally the ignition module. Check that the coil has power going to it, using a voltmeter. The coil should have 3 wires connected to it. One is the big HT lead, and then there are two small wires, one on either side of the coil. One of the wires is for the constant 12volt power source, the other is the control wire. With the ignition switched on, you should be able to read 12volts at one of these wires.

The other wire is the control wire, it receives pulses from the ignition module that is inside the distributor. Effectively this switches the output of the coil on and off, and controls when the spark plug will fire. It is difficult to detect these pulses without proper equipment, but a multimeter set to AC might be able to detect the presence of an AC voltage (although it probably wont accurately display the correct voltage), which would indicate that the ignition module is working.

If the pulses are not present at the input of the coil, then your ignition module is probably the culprit.

Open the distributor, and remove the rotor button. There is a round plastic cover over the ignition module, which must be removed. The ignition module is semi circular, and has four wires attached to it, via small screws. Take note of the location of each wire, and unscrew each one. The ignition module can be unscrewed with a phillips head screw driver, and removed. When fitting the replacement module, you must cover it with the heat sink compound that is supplied with the new module (mechanics sometimes refer to this compound as ignition module grease). Without the heat sink compound, the new module will over heat, and burn out. You should be able to replace the module in 15 minutes, it is very easy to do.

Jun 20, 2008 | 1990 Mazda 323

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