Question about 2005 Hyundai Elantra

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Back brakes are clanging when you apply the pedal. New brakes were puit on three weeks ago.

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Get it checked out now.i cant say but clanging sounds serious.im thinking a loose bolt on brakes.adrian,,,,

Posted on Jul 05, 2010

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Take it back to the w/shop who did the job

Posted on Jul 05, 2010

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2010 Cadillac dts the cruse control don't work sometimes and the brake lights don't turn off and the switch key will not come out ,other times it works normal


The crusie control not working would be caused by brake lights being on same as for the key not coming out . You need to test the brake pedal position sensor . The brake pedal position sensor is under the dash hooked to the brake pedal arm . You need a wiring diagram to tell which wires are what . The pedal position sensor isn't like brake light switch from years past , it's an input for the BCM - body control module .There is three wires at the switch , 5 volt ref. , ground and signal . All go to theBCM . You could have a sensor problem , problem with the BCM . There could be DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes stored in the BCM .
The brake pedal position sensor is used to sense the action of the driver application of the brake pedal. The body control module (BCM) provides a 5-volt reference voltage and low reference to the brake pedal position sensor. The position sensor provides an analog voltage signal back to the BCM that will increase as the brake pedal is applied. When the brake pedal is applied, the BCM will then apply battery voltage to the left and right stop/turn signal lamp supply voltage circuits and the center high mounted stop lamp (CHMSL) supply voltage circuit illuminating the stop lamps. At the same time the BCM applies battery voltage through the signal circuit to the transmission control module (TCM) and the engine control module (ECM) indicating that the brakes are applied.

Your best bet would bet to take it to qualified repair shop

Jan 04, 2017 | 2010 Cadillac DTS

1 Answer

The front drivers side break keeps locking. I have replaced the caliper and now when I pump it no fluid is coming out from the line.


Did air get into the master cylinder? If you can, try bleeding the master cylinder. The fact that you aren't getting any fluid out of the line suggests that the master cylinder isn't pumping fluid.

Master cylinders are (usually) on a split circuit system - that is, the front left brake is on the same line as the rear right. The front right brake is on the same circuit as the rear left.

A point to be aware of is when bleeding brakes/doing brake work and if the master cylinder runs dry, is that a seal inside the master cylinder can fail/twist over and not pressurise that particular line, even though it may pressurise the opposite brake line.

I'm in the UK. I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4 litre, which I am slowly rebuilding. Three weeks ago I fitted new front brake rotors, new front callipers and pads. I've been rebuilding cars for over 40 years now and have done countless brake overhauls.

.. and could I get a hard pedal after the job was completed? I must have bled the brakes three times a day for a week and couldn't get a brake pedal. I phoned a full time mechanic I know - he came and tried to bleed the brakes three times and couldn't get a hard pedal.

That's when you think 'The master cylinder was working before I started the job so it must be still working now'.

I fitted a brand new master cylinder and because some parts for older jeeps are hard to come by in the UK, I fitted a second hand proportioning valve. When I bled the brakes again the pedal became rock solid. Fixed.

You're probably fed up with your braking problem now ... and apparently this 'no fluid/brake pedal' is more common than you may think.

Try bleeding the master cylinder if you can. If you suspect that it isn't fully working - try an overhaul kit which is cheaper than a new master cylinder.

As for changing the proportioning valve .. that's your decision. My brakes now work though the truth is I don't actually know which was at fault as I changed both the master cylinder and proportioning valve at the same time. Maybe both were at fault, for whatever reason. I genuinely don't know.

The positive aspect is that you are doing your own work and know what you're doing. You're saving on labour charges.

Apr 18, 2016 | 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan

1 Answer

The brakes on my 2004 Concorde come on while driving down the road. The brake pedal comes all the way to the top and is hard to push. The brakes stay on and will bring me to a stop by letting off the...


The problem is most likely in the vacuum booster. It has a valve inside when slight pressure is applied to the pedal, applies vacuum boost to the master cylinder aiding the operator in braking. If you notice applying the brakes several times with the engine off, the pedal will harden in the same fashion. With a malfunctioning internal valve the booster can apply the vacuum boost when not needed.

Jun 11, 2014 | 2004 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

Mercedes c180 shakes while applying brakes


need a specialist in alinement or brakes------a procut machine will find the problems w the disk--they use um in nascar--the car is put on a digital rack--worth the $-dont throw more parts at it-----just find a good mech whos done this stuf

Dec 11, 2013 | Mercedes-Benz Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why would my emergency brake not hold? I have installed new drums, dealer replaced cable three yrs ago and has not been tight since. I have gone back several times, and had adjustments, what else can be...


Make sure you have lots of "meat" on your brake shoes.
Emergency brakes only apply rear brakes by using shoes against the drum, that are pulled by the cable, that's attached to the emergency brake lever / pedal....and actuated by the driver.

It has to be one of those three components...may have to pull the drum and actuate the pedal / lever to see if the cable spreads the shoes and make adjustments from there.

If your back brakes don't hold...it can also cause the ABS light to illuminate...

Hope this helps...

Aug 27, 2011 | 2003 GMC Envoy

1 Answer

My 2003 Lincoln had new brakes and rotors 6 months ago - now, i notice a squeek when I apply the brakes - also, on snow when lightly braking, my brake pedal pushes itself against my foot in an up and down...


if you had brakes and rotors 6 months ago,did you do just front or just rear?
if you did front and squeal is in front,the new pads got hot and it glazed them,but the rotors are you pulsating pedal,are you sure they did rotors and pads?
there is no way this should be happening in 6 months.

Dec 28, 2009 | 2003 Lincoln Town Car

1 Answer

Low brake pressure


If you are positive everything is bled out perfectly, it's possible that there is too much runout in the wheel bearings in front and they are pushing the pads back too far.

Does it feel solid after they are pumped up once? Another possibility is that the adjusters are not coming up in the rear brakes, and the springs are pulling the cylinders back too far.

May 19, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

Parking brake stuck on a 1990 Buick LeSabre


I live in snow country and have had the same thing happen. In my case it was the cable that hug up. It got corroded with road salt and water and when applied froze in that position. Also a frayed cable will hang up in the sheathing. I don't think the spring is bad as the peddle did come back. Good luck.

May 11, 2009 | 1990 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

Cruise control does not work


Replace the Brake light control switch located in front of the brake peddle under the dash this also turns the cruise off when braking. While driving put your foot behind the brake peddle and pull back toward you while doing this try your cruise if it works there are three possible causes or a combination of all three. Brake control Switch, Loose or sloppy brake pedal not activating the Brake switch properly or week brake pedal return spring. Good Luck.

Jul 26, 2008 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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