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86 Econoline 150 302 fuel injected Van stalls and putters then will not start if drive in hot temps. for 5 or 10 miles.. Once Engine Cools or let it sit for a couple hours it drives fine. Sounds like not firing correctly or gas problem.. The Engine Temp gauge does not read the Engine is hot

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Hi my name is Tom and I am here to help.

I will need more info to zone in on your problem. Some questions I need answers to. Has a tune up been done on your van? Is the timing off? Has the carburetor or injectors had a cleaning?

When an engine does not run well in hot weather or after running a while, it is usually a sign of "vapor lock" or too lean a mixture of gas to air. There is not enough gas for it to run properly.

I can be more specific, if I know more about the state of the plugs, timing, etc. Please let me know, If you want a more specific opinion.


Posted on Jul 05, 2010

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If the vehicle does have EEC-IV (Electronic Engine Control-4) then the ignition system actually used an ignition module on the side of the distributor and it is most likely faulty, and when the ignition module gets too hot the engine will stop running. Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector from the pick-up coil/stator where the ignition module connects to it, and if the connector is dark or burnt looking then also replace the pick-up coil/stator or the entire distributor. Here are some images to assist you and notice the white connector on the ignition pick-up coil/stator and when that connector turns dark or burnt looking then it is faulty.

If the vehicle is not EEC-IV equipped (see emission label under the hood) then the ignition module will be mounted away from the distributor and usually located out on the driver side fender well area and can have two or three wire connectors, and it can be removed and tested for free at most auto part stores.

Also, there is the possibility that there might be a faulty ignition coil and it should be checked using an ohm meter (let me know if you require assistance with the proceedure), or a fault with the fuel pump and a fuel pressure gauge would be the best way to determine if the fuel pump is faulty, and the ECU (Engine Control Unit) might be faulty. However, the symptoms that you describe seem to be more that of the ignition module. A Ford ignition module wrench should be used to remove and install the ignition module on the distributor, and most auto part stores will have one for under five dollars.

Most auto part stores will test the ignition module for free if you remove it from the distributor and take it to them.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with die-electric grease and be sure that the metal contact surface of the ignition module is completely coated with the die-electric grease because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it, and be careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

If you are installing the old ignition module onto the distributor be sure not to forget to coat the metal contact surface with die-electric grease/compound or the ignition module will over-heat.

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Posted on Jul 05, 2010

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