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How to troubleshoot 4AF distributor's igniter modul.

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Visualy inspect it first. if it looks like the cassing is burned, out of shape, it probably is defective

Posted on Jul 04, 2010

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My 1985 2.5 s-10 wont spray gas through the throttlebody but pumps from the fuel pump what would make it do this i can straight wire it to the battery and it will spray someone told me it could be the...


Using a test light, and with the ignition key in the "On" or "Run" position check for full battery voltage at the (+) positive side of the ignition coil, and then check for full battery voltage at the wire connector to the distributor for the wire that runs between the (+) positive side of the ignition coil and the distributor. (dis-connect the wire connector from the distributor to test) If full battery voltage is present at the (+) positive side of the ignition coil but not through the ignition coil to the distributor then replace the ignition coil. If full battery voltage is present at both the ignition coil and the distributor then remove the ignition module from the distributor to have it tested and most auto part stores will test it for you for free. The ignition module is what generates the signal that the ECM uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, and be certain that the ignition module is installed into the distributor using a silicone grease or some other die-electric compound to completely cover the metal mounting surface of the ignition module because it is a heat-sink, and be careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it can be damaged. There is also a hall-effect switch inside of that distributor that would be the next suspect if the ignition module tests out alright, and if there is no spark there is a pick-up coil/stator assembly that could be faulty and if that is the case then replace the entire distributor because the distributor will have to be removed and dis-assembled to replace the pick-up coil/stator assembly.


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Nov 30, 2010 | 1985 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer

2 Answers

Trying to locate the ignition module for chevy blazer s10 1994


Ignition module sits in the ignition distributor, remove distributor cap, there will be two elec. harness plugs, the one with two wire's is for the pick up coil, the other one is for the ignition module, just unscrew module out of distributor and install new one.

Sep 23, 2010 | 1994 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer

1 Answer

89 k1500 towed, now fuel injectors dont fire. read all wired to and from ecm, check good. ecm will start another truck.


Check the ECM fuse and then check for any loose wire connectors, especially at the fire-wall area, the ignition coil, and the distributor. Then check for battery voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil when the ignition key is in the "On" or "Run" position, and there should also be battery voltage running over from a wire that is also connected to the positive side of the ignition coil, and then that wire will run over from the ignition coil to the ignition module inside of the distributor, and if there is battery voltage there at the ignition module, then either the ignition module or the pick-up coil inside of the distributor will be the most likely suspects for the cause of the problem.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is actually what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like it could also be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

The same principal applies to HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition systems with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap.


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Sep 18, 2010 | 1989 Chevrolet K1500

4 Answers

How to replace an ignition rotor to a 1988 Ford Escort


Your vehicle may be equipped with either of the following ignition systems, depending on the year and engine combination:
* 1981-82 1.3L and 1.6L engines: Dura Spark II Ignition System
* 1982-85 1.6L Non-EFI and 1986 1.9L Non-EFI engines: Thick Film Ignition I (TFI-I) System
* 1983-90 1.6L EFI and 1.9L EFI engines: Thick Film Ignition IV (TFI-IV) System

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the distributor from the engine.
  3. Place the distributor assembly on a workbench.
  4. Remove the two TFI ignition module retaining screws.
  5. Pull the right side of the module down the distributor mounting flange and then back up to disengage the module terminals from the connector in the distributor base. The module may then be pulled toward the flange and away from the distributor.
Do not attempt to lift the module from the mounting surface, except as explained in Step 3, as the pins will break at the distributor module connector.


To install:
  1. Coat the baseplate of the TFI ignition module uniformly with a 1 / 32 in. (0.8mm) of silicone dielectric compound WA-10 or equivalent.
  2. Position the module on the distributor base mounting flange. Carefully position the module toward the distributor bowl and engage the three connector pins securely.
  3. Install the retaining screws. Tighten to 15-35 inch lbs. (1.7-4.0 Nm), starting with the upper right screw.
  4. Install the distributor into the engine. Install the cap and wires.
  5. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  6. Recheck the initial timing. Adjust the timing, if necessary.

Hope helps.

Sep 10, 2010 | 1988 Ford Escort EXP

1 Answer

My 2003 gmc v6 just had its plugs and wires and distributor cap and button changed and i put the distributor button on wrong, it ran fine 4 a mon. or 2 and one of the screws came out of the button and...


The distributor cap and/or the ignition rotor most likely have a crack somewhere and the distributor cap should be replaced along with the ignition rotor. The ignition module could have been damaged as well as the ignition pick-up coil/stator and if replacing the distributor cap and ignition rotor does not solve the problem then the ignition module or the pick-up coil/stator assembly inside of the distributor is also most likely damaged and the distributor will need to be replaced. There is a certain procedure for removing and replacing the distributor, and the ignition timing is not adjustable and it is not set using a timing light or with the engine running, and if you do have to replace the distributor Let me know if you require the procedure to properly remove and replace the distributor or if you require any further assistance.

Aug 17, 2010 | 2003 GMC Sierra 1500

2 Answers

If you start the engine and it sounds like its having trouble staying started with plenty of gas and no engine lights on, what could be the source of the problem? I try putting the car out of park and the...


That sounds like a problem with the ignition coil, or the ignition module located on the side of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module (requires a special tool available from most auto part stores) and most auto part stores will test the ignition module for free.

Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector for the ignition module inside of the distributor from the pick-up coil/stator and the connector should be white as shown in the image here and notice how white the connector looks, when it looks dark or burnt looking then either replace the pick-up coil coil/stator at the same time as the ignition module, or replace the entire distributor. (If you replace the distributor first note how the distributor housing is positioned, and do not forget to mark where the ignition rotor is pointing before, and after you pull the distributor up, that way the distributor will drop right back into place, and re-position the distributor housing as close you can get it to the way the original one was positioned that way the engine should start right up and then just follow the set timing procedures for the vehicle and the timing specifications should be listed out on the emission label under the hood, and be sure not move, crank, or rotate the crankshaft until the distributor is installed back into the engine)

If you are replacing the ignition module only, be sure that if that ignition module is supposed to have a silicone grease or a die-electric compound that it does come with the ignition module, because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it. Also be sure to completely coat the entire metal contact surface of the ignition module with a thick coat of the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface un-coated, and be careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it can be damaged. Some ignition modules have a gel film on the contact surface and do not require any silicone grease or die-electric compound.

Ignition pick-up coil/stator, notice now white the connector for the ignition module is, check your connector and if it is dark or burnt looking then replace also replace the pick-up coil/stator with the ignition module, or replace the entire distributor.
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Image of ignition module.

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Jun 18, 2010 | 1987 Ford Tempo

2 Answers

Will start and run but if u turn it off 4 a min it wont start back up new fuel pump filter plugs wires


That problem is most likely the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove it and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

The ignition module could also have been damaged by a faulty ignition coil or a damaged distributor cap that allowed secondary voltage to flow over the ignition module, or a shorted pick-up coil inside of the distributor could also have caused the ignition module to malfunction, and in that case you should replace the distributor. (if the ignition module does test out to be alright then the pick-up coil is the next likely culprit)

Be sure that if you purchase a new ignition module that it does come with either a silicone grease, or a die-electric compound, and be very certain that you completely cover the metal mounting contact area under the ignition module with that silicone grease or die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will overheat without it, and be very careful that you do not over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Be sure that you also clean off the mounting surface for the ignition module on the inside of the distributor very well before you install the ignition module, and if installing the old module back into the distributor be sure to obtain either silicone grease or a die-electric compound for it.

Jun 08, 2010 | 1988 Chevrolet Celebrity

2 Answers

1992 s10 4.3 motor Sometimes the spark plugs


Ignition module... Most auto parts stores can test these

May 03, 2010 | 1992 Chevrolet S-10

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