Question about 2004 Toyota Celica

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1992 toyota 2.2l engine overheated out of the blue last month. 1) bypassed the heater core and flushed the system sttil have the heater sore bypassed 2) removed the thermostat and no overheating but the engine runs bad. 3) problem has been getting worse. while going 60-70 mph and step on the gas it doesn't accelerate. from a complete stop, the engine sputters. 4) all engine fans turn on including the ac fan and the regular fan. 5) changed all spark plugs, distuber cap ok and wires ok. 6) changed fuel filter today and the car runs he same 7) compression test shows 215 across every cyninder. when i put oil in the socket, it jumps to 275 across the board. 8) with he thermostat closed, i can see water flowing and the lower hose stays hot. 9) no white smoke out of the tailpipe, antifreeze is clear and no water in the oil. 10) after 10 min of driving, i overheats and still has a lack of power - this problem started with the putting upon acceleration after i first overheated and the car wouldn't drive. It has been geting worse. filled it back up and drove normally for 400 miles and now it has no pickup? help???

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It sounds like a misfire when you explain the lack of power and the overheating could be from a leak in the system from a radiator cap that is bad. A 50/50 coolant water mixture boils at about 236 degrees Farenheit at ambient pressure. For every pound of pressure added to the system raises the boiling point 3 degrees. So a radiator cap with 10 lbs of pressure will raise the boiling point to 266 degrees. My point is that a bad cap releasing pressure instead of holding can over heat an engine very quickly. Just a reminder, never remove the thermostat on any computer controlled vehicles. The systems of today are made to run efficiently at 195 to 210 degrees Farenheit. Removing the thermostat will "trick" the ECM in to thinking the car is still warming up and it will never get out of that mode causing a richer fuel mixture and advanced timing that can result in overheating, a clogged catalytic converter, etc. I would replace the plug wires because they can go bad without any visual damage and replace the radiator cap to start. Turn on the A/C with the temperature setting on high/hot so the engine warms up gradually. Let me know any other information you may have so that I can assist you further. Is there any other information you can give me?

Posted on Jul 04, 2010

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  • sped1 Jul 04, 2010

    the lack of power happened with and without the thermostat. now, it overheats with the thermostat in.

    drove it for an hour locally today with no thermostat. never overheated but no power. Still sputters upon acceleration.



    Radiator cap was changed, 16 psi. radiator was changed last year.



    replaced the spark plugs today. all gaped at .044



    Looking at a bad head gasket???? before i flushed the radiator and before i changed the oil, no milky mixture. and the oil and radiator fluid still look very clean. no smoke coming out of the muffler



    compression test on all cylinders tonight still read 215, 215 210 and 210



    since i thought it was a bad head gasket, i put k&w head gasket sealer in while bypassing the heater core and had the thermostat removed. same results

  • sped1 Jul 04, 2010

    spark plug wires were changed last year about 6,000 miles ago



    the specs for the compression on my car are 171 why am i blowing a 215? just asking. at least i have the same compression on all cylinders.



    car is a 1992 toyota celica gt 2.2 with 180,000 miles on it. changed the water pump and timing belt last year about 6.000 miles ago. could my timing belt have shifted causing the motor to run rough?

  • Greg W.
    Greg W. Jul 04, 2010

    I would say no to the timing belt shifting. If it stretched or was not tightened initially it could slip off which would cause it to be shredded apart and/or kill the motor if it broke. Is the engine idling rough sometimes, all the time or does it seem to run fine until you began to accelerate? I don't think I read in your response that you replaced the plug wires. A miss that is caused by a bad plug wire can cause the engine to bog at low rpm and when accelerating. It will then begin to run slightly better at higher rpm. I have seen many times where new parts are defective causing me to scratch my head. So, if you have no coolant leaks, no smell of coolant burning, no white smoke or excessive moisture at the exhaust pipe and you have gone through the cooling system, have you felt for air in the system that could be causing the thermostat to open late or not at all? I truly think that you either have a bad plug wire or wires, a cap/rotor or moisture in the distributor cap. Let me know about the air in the system. If we can start by solving the overheating issue it will make diagnosis of the other issues easier. Please get back to me. Thank you.

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surpenion system.? wow no year stated !!

what are you doing ,just a flush? of engine coolant

my guess you are reading the steps. and wonder why we do it fully

there are 2 flush ways. 1 is poor way and way 2 is ASE.

i will not mention shop way with the $10,000 machine.

1: poor way, open drain bottom rad, run water from rad cap

until drain runs clear. (ok on a 2 year old car. sure)

2 pro way.

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If the heater core bypass refers to the water flow to the heater core, I would wonder why you did not flush the heater core as part of the system. You can drain water from engine, disconnect heater hoses and add a short hose to the heater and force a garden hose to flush the core.

I have not looked up the particulars for which heater system is on your car. Some just use duct-work to close off air flow through the heater core and the heater core always has hot water in it. Others will use a valve to shut off the water flow through the heater core and they can be either electric or vacuum operated. Combination systems are the third system which controls water flow and duct air flow at the same time.

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The following suggestion is as old as the water cooled engine but it still works better than any solution you can buy at an auto parts store.

Total cost: $2.00

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