Question about Mazda 626

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2002 626 2.5 need cam timingi I dont have book already done head gaskets, but cams out of time

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Hi! You should find the timing mark to do the cam timing. I provided a link to guide you where to look at. I dont have 2002 picture of it but most likely it still has the same location. Hope this helps and have a good one. Please click here http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1999/make/mazda/model/626/1999_mazda_626_timing_belt_diagram_marks.htm

Posted on Jul 03, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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What needs to b done if a 1.6L suzuki engine was accidentally cranked one short/quick turn while the timing belt ra's removed? ?? Haynes book only mentions NOT to turn engine w/belt off, but says NOTHING...


wOW NO YEAR STATED, 89-99> n o caar stated either,
so I guess G16a or G16b engine.... why must i guess.... lots of 1.6 by suzuki made.....
nothing, its free running, most G16s are.
cant speak for all 8 cams sold world wide, but stock USA
its free running. why not put the crank at TDC #1 firing
and turn cam by hand and feel, (reality) look ma, no hitting....

that warning is just Haynes (junk book) stating what is printed
on all real SUZ. OEM FSM books, it states this.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/interference.jpg

and is a worldly warning, on all engine they sell world wide all 56 engines sold.

most G16 are free running SOHC , usually are and rare DOHC.
most authorities, all that ive seen and seen most all mimic
the above factory warning, but what else can they do..
they read it and its CLEAR , no?

now your question, sure it dont say what to do
after all they dont know where you left the cam,

if super paranoid, (been there)
we do this,
put crank TDC, mark, (fires every 180 degrees it does)
the turn pulley to 90degrees, this puts all pistons 1/2 up.
now drop the head on to block with , cam cog with E mark at 12pm.
this is #4 firing.
now back the crank up CCW 90%
now #4 is firing.

easy huh> ?
note how the G16 has 2 heads, and are done DIFFERENTLY.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt-index.html#Tbelt-main

if not paranoid?
put crank to TDC mark, 0deg
put cam cog to E mark up(16v). or pimple mark up(8v) 12pm
there is a 12pm mark on top back of cam cog
this is #4 firing, an is where all G16s are timed. (ALL)
end story.
there are false marks ,fully documented in link for 4 engines.
(they changed marks 4 times)

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Hyundai 2001 accent faults


ohhh well since there was a head gasket job done i would highly recommend :
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IF the valves are sticking open then the bad news is that they are probably bent and jamming in the guides.. I would guess that in reassembling the head they were not aware of the cam shaft timing and turned the crank when the cam was not positioned correctly hence the bent valves. With the compression readings you have it points directly to bent valves . They probably fitted the cam shaft then put the head on which will result in the same bent valves. Sorry for the news but my advice is to get the valves replaced then get hold of a work shop manual and do the job according to the book. At least you will wind up knowing more that the guys that didn't Best of luck.

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Blown head gasket needs to be replaced.... Whats the best way to get the head off? do i need to take the intake and exhaust manifolds off after the head is off?? its dohc on a 2.0L......also do i need to...


The intake and exhaust manifols are both attached to the cylinder head. Sneaking the head off withboth attached, is done, but you really want to know why that gasket went out. I would suggest removing both manifolds after you get the head out, and bringing the head in to a good engine machine shop, for surfacing and pressure testing. You will need to remove the cams. Make very sure that all cam caps go back on in the same position, as these are align bored, and are not interchangeable. Does your engine run hot? Is that why the gasket failed? If so adress that too, or you will be taking this journey again. Good luck, and contact me if you have any more questions. Buy one of those Haynes manuals, unless you have access to a good online repair data base.

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At 115,000 my 4 cyl is leaking coolant into #4 cyl, no detectable coolant in oil,no oil in coolant. I assume head gasket problem. I need advice and opinion and recommendation of what manual to purchase so...


tricky job ...but ok ..just make sure you lock the cam gears if its 16 valve, sometimes you can use a wine cork if you dont have the tool , just put it between the cam s to prevent it from spinning inward ,,when reassembling after the following, so you can keep timing right while you replace the belt ....make sure you replace the belt dont reuse it...while your in there replace the water pump as well if it runs off the timing belt....its due with 115k....as well as cam seals head gasket valve cover gasket kit...intake manafold gasket..exuast gasket....also it is recommended that you replace head bolts in order to get the best tork spec.....and make sure the timing marks are correct and that your top dead center on the compression stroke #1 cylinder.....since thers no oil in the radiator its probly just a head gasket ..but send the head out have it magnaflexed check for cracks and have it decked ..milded flat if needed..it may be warped just alittle...you never know but after all that work you want to be sure...you cuold also replace front main seal while your in there...and valve seals on the head since its off anyway napa charges about 180.00 to redue the head..goodidea........

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Driver side no compression after valves were done, timing aligned properly with cam aligning tools.What can be the problem?


The head gasket may be defective or a head bolt isn't holding. Also, double-check the valve springs to make sure the valves are closing when the cam unloads them.

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