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Posted on Jul 02, 2010
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Cant get 4 pin socket tospin off of the spindle, is the a keyway?

Also can i pound out ball joints without press?

  • Marvin
    Marvin Jul 02, 2010

    qand how will u get the new ones in?

×

1 Answer

Steve Jensen

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  • Master 417 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 05, 2010
Steve Jensen
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Joined: Mar 28, 2010
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Yes you can get ball joints off without press but you would need a fork. you can get them at parts store for about 10$.Just put that fork round the joint and beat the living heck outta it till the joint comes apart

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How to replace control arms on a 93 protege

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it by the frame with jack stands. Remove the front wheels using the air gun and a socket.

  • 2 Place the floor jack under the lower control arm as close to the ball joint as possible. Raise the jack until it begins to lift the control arm. Make sure that the floor jack is positioned where it cannot slip off the control arm.
  • 3 Remove the cotter pin in the upper control arm ball joint using the wire cutters. Remove the nut on the bottom of the upper ball joint using a wrench. Separate the ball joint using the ball joint separator tool. Insert the tool between the spindle and the upper control arm and hit it with a hammer until it comes loose from the spindle.
  • 4 Remove the upper control arm by removing the nuts on the engine side of the arm holding it to the frame. Use a wrench for this, but as the bolts are loosened, keep the alignment shims together that are behind each nut. It will be necessary to replace these on the side they were removed from for the alignment.
  • 5 Lift the upper control arm off and remove the upper ball joint using the ball joint installer kit. This procedure is only necessary if the new control arm does not come with a ball joint, which would be unusual.
  • 6 Place the receiver over the bottom of the ball joint and the smaller pusher cylinder on the topside. Place the large C-clamp from the kit over the cylinders. Use the ½-inch drive air gun and socket to push the ball joint out. Reverse the process to install the ball joint. Install the upper control arm in reverse order of removal.
  • 0helpful
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    Ball joints

    If your ball joints all need to be replaced, you need two lowers and two uppers. Get quality joints, no duralast. Napa has some quality joints...

    You will also need a ball joint press, you can rent this at any local parts store, autozone I think has them, you put down money and if you bring the tool back, you get tour money back in full. You will also need a cc axle socket or spindle socket depending on 2wd vs 4wd.

    If you have a 2wd it's a little more simple, jack truck up, remove wheels, remove upper joint nut pin and take the **** off. Use te press to remove joint. Press in new joint, attach spindle to joint in reverse of removal, insert nut pin, and grease it up using a grease gun with a zero fitting attachment. Flexible hose on the gun will be better the. The solid tube type. Do the same for the bottom. And repete for the other side.

    You may also fine a hammer handy, and normal tabs tools such as sockets and ratchets.

    Get an alignment right after especially if you end up needing to remove the tie rods. Simple job, but time consuming especially for your first time.

    Gotta learn sooner or later!

    There are many chevy forums online that will help out tremendously if it turns out to be more difficult then expected.
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    Need pictures and procedure 91 Ford pickup F250 twin I beam ball joint replacement.

    Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350
    Removal
    1. Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety stands.
    1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
    1. Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) from the rotor and wire it out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 .
    1. Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut retainer, nut, washer and front wheel bearing (1216).
    1. Remove the rotor from the front wheel spindle (3105).





      Item Part Number Description 1 606085 Clamp Bolt 2 3B404 Camber Adjuster 3 800895 Nut 4 800937 Nut 5 3049 Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint 6 3050 Front Suspension Lower Arm Ball Joint 7 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 8 642569 Cotter Pin 9 3304 Steering Sector Shaft Arm Drag Link 10 383489 Nut 11 3001 Front Axle Assembly 12 388727 Bolt A - Tighten to 77-103 Nm
      (57-75 Lb-Ft) B - Tighten to 68-92 Nm
      (50-67 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 Lb-Ft) D - Tighten to 340-460 Nm (250-339 Lb-Ft)
    1. Remove bearing cone and roller (1201) and wheel hub grease seal (1190). Discard the seal.
    1. Remove front disc brake rotor shield (2K004). Refer to Section 06-03 .
    1. Disconnect the steering linkage from the integral front wheel spindle and spindle arm by removing the cotter pin and nut and then removing the front wheel spindle tie rod from the spindle arm with Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
    1. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the lower ball joint stud.
    1. Remove the nut from the axle clamp bolt and remove the bolt from the axle.
    1. Remove the camber adjuster from the upper ball joint stud and axle beam. If required, use Ball Joint Removing Tool D81T-3010-B or equivalent to remove adjuster.
    1. stj~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the axle as this will damage the seal and the ball joint socket.
      Strike the inside area of the axle as shown to pop lower ball joints loose from the axle beam.
    1. Remove the front wheel spindle and ball joint from the axle.






    Ball Joint, F-150, F-250, F-350 SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH
    Removal
    1. Remove the front wheel spindle (3105) and ball joint assembly from the axle. Refer to Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350 in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.
    1. NOTE: Lower ball joint must be removed first.

      Install the front wheel spindle in a vise and remove the snap ring from the lower ball joint.
    1. Remove the lower ball joint from the front wheel spindle using U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C and Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 or equivalent for F-150. Use Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH for F-250 and F-350.
    1. Turn the forcing screw clockwise until the ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
    2. CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or the front wheel spindle to aid in removal.
      Assemble U-joint tool and cup on the upper ball joint, and turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.


      Installation
      1. stj~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or axle to aid in installation.
        NOTE: Upper ball joint must be installed into the front wheel spindle first.

        NOTE: Individual ball joint tools are included in Ball Joint Adapter Set D81T-3010-A or equivalent.

        To install the upper ball joint, assemble C-frame assembly, Ball Joint Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 and Installation Cup D81T-3010-A1 and D81T-3010-A3 or equivalents inside cup D81T-3010-A4 or equivalent in position on the front wheel spindle.
      1. Turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is seated.



      2. snorkelbobby_49.gif
    0helpful
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    i assume its a twin i beam, so remove tire , brake calipers and secure, remove splash shield and cotter pins at ball joints and tie rod, remove holding nuts and peparate tie rod then spindle assembly, a ball joint separator works here, then remove c clip holding ball joint and press out (need a ball joint press here), press new joint in ( tip , stick it in the freezer for an hour or so) then reassemble front end
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  • Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Using the ½-inch air gun, remove the wheels. Use the wire cutters to remove the cotter pin in the lower ball joint.

  • Unscrew and remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the mounting bracket. The bolts run through the caliper from the engine side. Remove the caliper, but do not let it hang by its hose.

  • Use a wrench to take the nut off of the lower ball joint. Insert the ball joint removal tool in between the spindle and the lower control arm. Hit the tool with the hammer until the ball joint comes loose.

  • Use the ½-inch air gun and the proper socket to remove the large nut on the end of the CV axle. This is the one in the center of the rotor. Push the axle in toward the engine slightly, just to make sure it is loose. If it is not loose, tap it with a hammer.

  • Use the ½ inch air gun and an 18mm socket to remove the two large bolts in the base of the strut where it is attached to the spindle. Pull the spindle from the strut to separate the two.

  • Grab the rotor and lift the lower ball joint out of the spindle. Pull the CV joint out of the spindle and then place the lower ball joint on the spindle back into the lower control arm to hold it there.

  • Insert the pry bar between the inner CV joint and the transmission. Use a fast yank on the pry bar to pry the CV joint from the transmission.

  • Insert the new CV joint into the transmission as far as it will go by hand. The CV joint has a snap ring on the end that is going in the transmission. It gives a little resistance to going in. Use both hands and pull the outer end out about 1 inch and then slam it in toward the engine. This quick movement will get the CV joint to seat in the transmission. Check to make sure that the CV joint is all the way in before proceeding--look at the distance between the CV joint and the transmission.

  • Insert the outer end of the CV shaft into the spindle and rotate the rotor slightly to get the splines to line up. Push it in until the tip of the axle begins to come out the outside of the spindle enough to get the large nut on. Put the large nut on a couple of turns. Put the nut back on the lower ball joint but do not tighten it yet.

  • 0

    Push the spindle back into the lower mounting point on the strut and insert the two large bolts and nuts. Use the ½-inch air gun to tighten securely. Use a wrench to tighten the nut on the lower ball joint. Insert the cotter pin below the nut for safety.

  • 11

    Tighten down the large axle nut securely with the ½-inch air gun. Put the brake caliper back on and insert the two bolts through the caliper and tighten. Replace the wheels and the lug n

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    theres 2 ways too fix that!! one is get some brass shiw stock it comes in a roll get about .005 thick! wrap several layers around the knuckle pin where is goes into the socket and then tigthen it up that will remove the play also you can heat the socket with a torch and then take a hammer and shrink the hole opening but if you call beards salvage in tulsa okla they can and will sell/ship you one
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    The ball joints are pressed into the spindle, and the spindle must be removed to replace the ball joints. The ball joints can't be replaced with the spindle in the vehicle. The wheel, brake caliper, brake rotor and tie rod are all attached to the spindle, and all four items must be removed to get the spindle off. Up until the point that the ball joints get removed from the spindle, it's not that hard a job. But getting the ball joints out of the spindle can be difficult, if not impossible unless you know how to do it. But that gets explained in these instructions.

    You will need metric sockets, and a breaker bar for this job. Channel lock pliers, diagonal cutting pliers and needle nose pliers are a must, along with a small, flat chisel, a hammer, and a 3 or 5 pound hammer. Buy some anti-seize compound and thread locker along with your new ball joints. I also had to use a 27mm impact socket and a propane torch with mapp gas.
    I'd have hand cleaner, paper towels, and a trash bag right with you so you can clean your hands right at the vehicle.
    REMOVE THE WHEEL
    1. Loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground before you jack the truck up. Just loosen the lug nuts, don't take the lug nuts off before jacking or supporting the truck.
    2. Set the emergency brake, and/or chock the wheels. Jack the truck up. Put a jack stand under the frame.
    3. Remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel. I use the wheel to sit on while doing this job.

    REMOVE THE CALIPER

    1. Remove the brake caliper by removing the two, 13mm bolts on the back side. After that, I pry the caliper up, from the bottom, first on one side then the other to get it unstuck. Then I set the brake caliper over the torsion or stabilizer bar so it's not hanging from the brake hose.
    2. Remove the two 15mm bolts that hold the frame that the caliper bolts to. Note: These bolts have thread locker on them and you should replace the bolts with thread locker. Since this part holds the caliper on, you don't want the bolts coming loose. Take the brake pads out of the bracket. They will probably just fall out later if you don't take them out now.

    REMOVE THE ROTOR
    1. Now the rotor can be removed by taking off the dust cap and removing the cotterpin, nut, and washer. I use a metal chisel with a hammer to separate the dust cap around the edge. Work little by little around the edge to pop off the cap.
    2. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the spindle and take the spindle nut off. You probably don't need a socket to remove this nut. The nut is for the tension on the wheel bearings, and even though your wheel bearings should be tightened quite snug, the nut should not be tightened real hard.
    3. Remove the washer, and pull the caliper forward. The outer wheel bearing should slide out a little bit. Take it out. Have plenty of paper towels handy because you will get covered with grease.
    4. Pull the rotor off and clean the grease off the spindle. You'll need to get the grease off the spindle because you will be handling the spindle to get the ball joints out.




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    You are correct sir. Even without splines, they require some type of press. You may be able to rent a ball joint press from one of the parts houses. I know advance auto and Autozone both have loaner tools.
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    heat the nut as well.
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    Not hard, you'll need a special socket to get the axle nut off and getting the bearing out of the spindle is usually a real chore. Since it sounds like the spindle is already out, you might be able to do it in a press.

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