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1983 ford ranger, backfires through carb on acceleration and engine shuts off . carb is not original. simple two barrel motorcraft. no electronics on carb. thanks
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As far as I know there was only one V6 engine offered on that vehicle in 1983 and that was a 2.8 liter V6. (There were a range of 4 cyl engines offered though).
A decode of the VIN on the vehicle should tell you which engine was fitted in the vehicle when new. (In a vehicle that old the original engine could have been replaced with something different).
0.042-0.046 is the correct gap for your spark plugs,If it is backfiring now and was not before make sure you were not sold platinum bosch plugs and if you are using factory plugs,then I be looking for a faulty spark plug.Also make sure the firing order is correct.
Sounds like the accelerator pump circuit in the carb is not squirting fuel in when you depress the accelerator. That is why you get the lag in acceleration before it decides to launch. When you open the carb you should get a steady stream of fuel from the accelerator pump. With the engine not running look down the carb throat and open the throttle blades and visually check to see that there is a stream of fuel when doing so. If not time to rebuild the carb, or just get another accelerator pump for the carb.
If its a (holley) motorcraft 2 bbl carb sounds like the power valve. They typically blow out whenever the engine backfires or they just wear out after time and flood the idle circuit.
The OEM carb on this model was Motorcraft, and you can get the rebuild kit from Ford or you can look up the model number either in Chilton's manual for that car, or maybe find another (kinda hard nowadays) carb in a junkyard and maybe it still has the tag. You can also research the specs for that motor on a web page of Ford or 2nd party auto parts dealers. I'd bet most mechanics over 40 years old could start you off in the right direction, too.
I have a 70 ford mustang originally a 2brl and now a 4 brl. No additional linkage was needed. You may have to re-route some vacuum lines. Since you have no tags on your carb you will have to take it to a carb shop. Mine was that way and I jacked around with Autozone, Napa, and O-riellys for2 weeks. Decided to take it to a carb shop and he just looked at it and knew exactly what it was.
oh by the way your carb does need re-built. My 70 did the same thing with ether or gas. Any carb shop can bench test it and tell you for sure for about $20
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