I have a 97 Mercury Tracer with disk brakes in rear. I disconnected the emergency brake cable and loosened the bleed screw and cannot compress the cylinder to put new pads on. Is there a trick?

So to install new brakes you always need to compress your caliper back to its original position. There are two ways of doing this one requires you to bleed your system and the other does not.
1. you can loosen your bleeder screw on your caliper to release the pressure to compress your caliper piston if you choose this method you will definitely need to bleed the system because loosening the bleeder screws allows air to enter your brake lines.
2. The other method is remove your brake reservoir cap. If you choose this method you will not need to bleed your brakes (this is assuming you had no air in your brake system prior to starting your brake job) this method allows you to push your brake fluid back up through your reservoir. I would suggest though put a towel around the filler neck of your reservoir because the excess fluid will come out the top as you compress the piston in the calipers. Good luck I hope this helps

Without being hurtful in any way

If you have to ask a general question
about brakes,that implies you have never
done brake work,I would suggest you don't

Use the repair shop and watch as they perform the job

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
   5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
   6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
      

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left front
   3. Left rear
   4. Right front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
   2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
   3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

on the caliper thare is a bleeder screw. you will need to open and close it.have someone step on the brake pedal 10 times and hold it down.with the brake holding,,open the bleeder screw.let it run for 2 seconds,then close off the bleeder.Pump and hold down the pedal again.Do this 35 times

Inspect and adjust the rear brakes, then adjust the emergency brake. If nothing is broken or rusted, under a couple of hours os shop time...

About $250.00 installed

if the emergency brake is integrated with the normal service brakes then you have to screw the piston in at the same time compressing it. Be sure to open the bleed screw so you dont push all the old dirty fluid into the rest of the brake system. That is the main reason for ABS problems as far as the hydraulic control unit is concerned. $$$

you need to turn the adjuster
there is a little hole on the bottom of your backen plate to ajust the brakes up

If the car has a center console between the seats, and the e-brake lever is there, remove the console there should be a bolt to tighten or loosen. Loosen it with the lever DOWN, pull the cable as tight as it will go with your hand and a pair of pliers. Holding the cable in place tighten the bolt or nut that secures the cable. If this doesn't fix it, have your rear brakes inspected and/or adjusted.

actually theres a special tool that connects to an air pump hose that expands the caliper back but you can use a vise if your very careful with pressing it back or locking clamp that you can use like a vise but this requires hand presure loosen bleed screw then use the vise