I have a 99 Dodge Dakota r/t. The bottom bolt on the driver's side calliper is stripped. Do I need to replace the whole bracket or can I have someone just retap the hole

Looks like Second generation (1997-2004)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dodge_Dakota
Comparisons

https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+Dodge+Dakota+v+Dodge+Durango

you can also open up a picture of your year and compare to Durangos by various years.
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Personally I would replace both rotors to prevent a future brake imbalance.

* chock rear wheels, raise front of vehicle and place on stands.

* remove wheels, remove brake calliper and bracket assemblies.

* remove bearing hubs from axles, via removal of bearing adjustment nut

*remove hub seals, clean and inspect bearings, repack with HT bearing grease.

* the brake rotor bolts to the rear of the hub, you will have to remove and replace rotor to hubs, make sure all bolts are thread locked with loctite 263 and tensioned to spec.

* pack hub with grease, install seals, fitt hub assembly and adjust wheel bearing preload, install new split pins.

* fitt brake calliper and brackets, fit new brake pads,

* fitt wheels lower vehicle, test brake for function

Hope this helps..

William, did you use the correct bolt(length), did you check all brackets, sliders, seized caliper, pads for damage, free movement, etc.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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How To Install Replace Brake Pads and Rotors Dodge Durango Dakota 97 03...

How To Replace the Front Brakes on 98 03 Durango

How To Replace Front Pads And Rotors Dodge Dakota

the whole seat 8 bolts 15mm i believe

The brake line has a metal support bracket on it. Rust builds up between the bracket and the rubber hose eventually pinching off the hose. The solution is to replace the hose or spread the bracket apart where it goes around the hose.

grab a block and a jack then place jack under engine or transmission, then put pressure on it, then remove center support bracket on bottom remove mounts install new ones reinstall center bracket line up mounts in bracket tighten center bolts remove jack and block

there is an inspection cover on the bottom of the bell housing you must remove to get to the torque converter bolts. you must rotate the fly wheel to access all the bolts. they make a tools for this, but a flat head screw driver works just as good, it just takes a little longer.

THERE IS NO BOLT HOLDING BELT TENSIONER TO FRONT ENGINE MOUNT..TENSIONER IS PART OF FRONT MOUNT BRACKET..AVAILABLE FROM DEALER..YOU MUST REPLACE WHOLE ASSEMBLY AS FAR AS I KNOW..CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL AFTERMARKET STORES,THEY MAY HAVE A KIT..ALSO CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL DODGE DEALER

They're on the top & bottom of the caliper. They should be 12 or 14 mm. Not the inner bolt that are about 19mm or bigger,those hold the entire bracket on.

Bought a longer screw and cranked that baby up to compress it. Then I threw the old bolts on that are shorter and it is gravy. I ran into a problem taking off the driver side shock though. The top of the old shock I was trying to remove stripped. That screwed me a few hours but I cracked the nut with a nut splitter and popped it off with a chisel and hammer after relentless whackings. New shocks installed in the front and I am good to roll. NUT SPLITTERS are a lifesaver. The amount of torque needed to crank a manual one is rediculous. Save yourself some time and strength and try to find a cheap hydrolic little one.