Won't start. Not even a click from the seleniod. Power drain/wiring heat-smoke from battery junction block, second wire from the passenger side of vehicle. Dead short in Starter? What does the second post on the junction block connect to?

Starter Voltage Drop

Starter relay ? Transmission range switch ? IS battery voltage getting to the starter solenoid S terminal ?

How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit

Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine . Under system click on engine ,then under subsystem click on starting .

Starter
When the ignition switch is moved to the RUN position, battery voltage is applied to one side of the Crank Relay in the underhood accessory wiring junction block through circuit 3, the PCM-BCM Fuse in the fuse block, and circuit 439. When the ignition switch is turned to START, voltage is fed to the powertrain control module connector C2 terminal 23 through circuit 5, the CRANK SIGNAL Fuse in the fuse block, and circuit 806 through the underhood accessory wiring junction block. Power is always provided from the CRANK MaxiFuse in the underhood accessory wiring junction block to the common side of the Crank Relay contacts. When the powertrain control module sees the crank signal and determines that conditions are OK for a crank, it supplies ground through circuit 625 to the Crank Relay. The Crank Relay now has both power and ground to the relay coil, causing the relay to pull in. When this happens, and the gear selector is in either PARK or NEUTRAL, the power at the relay common contact is passed through the normally open contact , circuit 1737, the transaxle range switch and circuit 6 to the S terminal on the starter solenoid.

DID YOU CHECK THE GRIDE HEATER OR SELENIODE
CUMMINS USE GRIDE HEATER (INTAKE HEATER) TO REPLACE GLOW PLUGS
SELENOIDE IS SPECIAL FOR THAT JOB MAY LOOK LIKE REGULAR BUT ITS NOT
CHECK WITH KEY ON EARLY IN AM TO SEE IF HEATER IS GETTING POWER
USED AT 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT AT HEATER INPUT MAKE SURE GROUND IS GOOD
IF NO POWER CHECK SELENOIDE TO SEE IF POWER IS THERE IF NO POWER
CHECK LIVE SIDE OF SELENIDE THEN CHECK SIGNAL SIDE (KEY ACTIVATED SMALL WIRE) IF NO SIGNAL POWER CHECK FUSE IF NO MAIN POWER BACK TRACK TO BATTERY

Did you pull the fuse out in the rear fuse box ? Located in the Rear Junction Block
In the center right rear of the passenger compartment, under the rear seat cushion
There are two 60amp maxi-fuse's Batt 1 & Batt 2 - Both supply battery power to the rear fuse box under the back seat .

So no power anywhere? Nothing at all? I'm assuming the battery is fine since it ran the day before.

This actually happened to me one time in my fiero

What is happening is no power is getting to the car at all, no power is reaching the engine, lights, interior, etc.

This simply or not so simply means there is a severed connection from the battery.

1) Check BOTH positive and negative connections, make sure the posts are clean and make a solid metal-to-metal contact and see if there is power yet.

2) Check the power junction area (or whatever it's called) in the engine bay (on the passenger side wall near the battery). There are red wires
and such which supplies the car with power in this junction area attached to posts and inside of black plastic connectors. Look for worn or severed wires which may have come loose over the years.

When this happened to my fiero, one of the wires corroded and came loose from the post where it was bolted on and attached to other wires.

Just reconnect the loose wire(s), you may have to crimp new ends or whatever, but that should fix it.

If not, start hunting for where the 12v supply from the battery is cut off. Use a multimeter and good luck!

check VEH STOP fuse in the instrument panel fuse box. If good, check for battery voltage in the bulb connector on the light blue wire with lights on. If no voltage, check for voltage in the rear junction box. Pull connector 4 and check for voltage on the terminal that connects to the light blue wire. If not voltage, you'll have to check the harness between the rear junction block and the underhood fuse block

Rear Defogger Inoperative, But Heated Mirrors Operate Correctly
1. Connect scan tool. Turn ignition switch to RUN position. Turn rear defogger on. Using scan tool, display BCM
outputs. If rear defogger is being requested on, go to next step. If rear defogger is not being requested on, go to
step 10).
2. Ensure ignition switch is in RUN position. Remove rear defogger relay from rear junction block, located on center
right rear of passenger compartment, under rear seat. Connect test light between ground and defogger relay
harness connector terminal F3 (Brown wire). If test light illuminates, go to next step. If test light does not
illuminate, go to step 11).
3. Connect test light between ground and defogger relay harness connector terminal A2 (Red wire). If test light
illuminates, go to next step. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 12).
4. Connect test light between defogger relay harness connector terminals A2 (Red wire) and B3 (Purple wire). If test
light illuminates, go to step 13). If light does not illuminate, go to next step.
5. Disconnect rear defogger positive and negative feed bus connectors. Connect a jumper wire between defogger
relay harness connector terminals F3 (Brown wire) and A4 (White wire). Connect test light between ground and
positive feed bus connector terminal "A" (Black wire). If test light illuminates, go to next step. If test light does not
illuminate, go to step 8).
6. Connect test light between positive feed bus connector terminal "A" (Black wire) and negative feed bus connector
terminal "B" (Black wire). If test light illuminates, go to next step. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 9).
7. Repair open in Black wire between rear defogger and ground. Recheck system operation.
8. Repair open in Purple wire between rear junction block and heated backlight antenna module. Recheck system
operation.
9. Check for proper terminal contact at rear defogger connectors. Repair as necessary. Recheck system operation.
10. Check for proper terminal contact at BCM. If terminal contact is okay, replace BCM. Recheck system operation.
11. Repair open in Brown wire between rear junction block and instrument panel junction block. Recheck system
operation.
12. Repair open in Red wire between rear junction block and underhood junction block (located in right front corner of
engine compartment, between battery and strut tower). Recheck system operation.
13. Connect test light between defogger relay harness connector terminals F3 (Brown wire) and A4 (White wire). If
test light illuminates, go to next step. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 16).
14. Reinstall defogger relay. Disconnect BCM 32-pin Pink connector C2. BCM is located behind right side of instrument
panel, near rear of glove box. Using DVOM, check voltage between ground and BCM harness connector C2
terminal A3 (White wire). If any voltage is present, go to next step. If no voltage is present, go to step 17).
15. Repair open or short to ground in White wire between rear junction block and BCM. Recheck system operation.
16. Check for poor connection at defogger relay terminals. If connections are okay, replace defogger relay. Recheck
system operation.
17. Check for proper terminal contact at BCM. If terminal contact is okay, replace BCM. Recheck system operation.

Hello
To start with, was there really a problem with the original battery ? Secondly, you have to make sure you have a good ground from frame of the vehicle to the engine block. Do this by using a good set of booster cables. Carefully attach the neg. cable from the frame in the engine compartment area to the engine block,(eg.) alternator mounting bracket( caution fan, belts).
It could also be water getting down into the junction wiring connectors at the drivers door post, left kick panel. Inspect for green corrosion, broken wires.

Steve

Fusible Links

The engine compartment wiring harness has several fusible links. The same size wire with a special hypalon insulation must be used when replacing a fusible link.
The links are located in the following areas:

1. A molded splice at the starter solenoid Bat terminal, a 14 gauge red wire.
   
2. A 16 gauge red fusible link at the junction block to protect the unfused wiring of 12 gauge or larger wire. This link stops at the bulkhead connector.
   
3. The alternator warning light and field circuitry is protected by a 20 gauge red wire fusible link used in the battery feed to voltage regular #3 terminal. The link is installed as a molded splice in the circuit at the junction block.
   
4. The ammeter circuit is protected by two 20 gauge fusible links installed as molded splices in the circuit at the junction block and battery to starter circuit.
   

Other things it MIGHT be are the ignition switch, located on top of the steering column:


The other thing it MIGHT be is a faulty ignition cylinder (where your key goes into to start the K10).

Check the wire harness on the steering column also.

Hopes this help, found answer on Saturnalia
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135171
If your mechanic has a schematic or looks in the owners manual and checks the loads listed for the IP BAT fuse in the UHJB and they are all dead then its the F-5 connection. The fuel pump is a direct feed from the IP BAT to F-5 to the fuel pump relay. the fuel pump fuse is on the other side of the fuel pump relay.

It covers exactly what I am trying to tell you. Check the IP BAT loads, if all dead, fix F-5 and if the internal wire is burned open replace the I/P panel.

File in Section: 08 - Body and Accessories

Bulletin No.: 03-08-45-001

Issue Date: May, 2003
Subject:
Intermittent No Start, Intermittent Stall after Start-Up and/or Loss of Radio Presets (Replace Instrument Panel Junction Block - IPJB and/or Terminal)

Models Affected:
1995-1999 Saturn S-Series Vehicles

Attention: Technician

Condition:

Some customers may comment that one or more of the following conditions has occurred.
^ Intermittent no start

^ Intermittent stall after start-up

^ Loss of radio presets

Cause:

Condition(s) may be caused by terminal tightness at PIN F-5 within the Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB Black 68 way).

Correction:

Refer to the Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB) and/or Terminal Replacement procedures in this bulletin.

Procedure:

Instrument Panel Junction Block (IPJB) Removal:
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect positive battery cable.

3. Remove left and right lower trim panel extensions by pulling outward at dual lock locations. Rotate panels outward to disengage hinges from console.


4. Remove screw and ground wire from H-bracket.

5. Remove wiring harness from H-bracket.

6. Remove screw and disconnect rear electrical connector from IPJB. Remove IPJB screw.


7. Using a small screwdriver, release lock tabs on IPJB and slide off of mounting tabs.


8. Feed IPJB through H-bracket towards front of car.

9. Inspect PIN F-5, circuit 402 on the Black 68-way connector of the instrument panel junction block for signs of arcing. If signs of arcing are present, replace IPJB and terminal. Refer to the IPJB Installation and Terminal Replacement procedures in this bulletin.

10. If no signs of arcing, verify terminal tightness using GRAY probe. Replace terminal using the Terminal Replacement procedure in this bulletin.

IPJB Installation:
1. Feed IPJB back through H-bracket.

2. Slide the IPJB into mounting tabs and lock into place.

3. Install rear Black 68-way electrical connector into IPJB and then install screws in connector into IPJB.

4. Reconnect wiring harness to the H-bracket.

5. Reconnect ground wire to the H-bracket.

6. Reinstall left and right lower trim panel extensions.

7. Reconnect positive battery cable.

8. Reconnect negative battery cable.

Terminal Replacement:
1. If terminal replacement is required, remove CPA from Black 68-way connector. Insert tool 12094430/J04898 to remove terminal.

2. Put connector seal (if equipped) on wire.

3. Remove insulation from the end of the cut lead and the harness. Recommended strip length is 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) Caution must be used to prevent cutting the wire strands.

4. Position stripped ends in sleeve until wires hit the stop in the center of the splice.

5. Hand crimp using the approved crimping tool. Gently tug on wires to make sure they are secure before applying heat to them.

Important O NOT USE MATCH OR OPEN FLAME TO APPLY HEAT TO SEAL.


6. Apply heat using the Heat Gun or some other device, heating to 175°C (347°F) until glue flows around edges of sleeve.

7. Insert the terminal into the connector. Check to make sure the terminal lock tab is engaged by gently tugging on the wire.

8. Replace any terminal position assurance (TPA) devices.
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