Question about Audi A4

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INITIALLY THE a/c READ OUT WAS STUCK ON 72.DEGREES BUT AT LEAST IT WORKED(BLEW COLD). NOW THE a/c READ OUT CAN BE ADJUSTED BUT THE COLD AIR STOPPED,NOW JUST WARM AIR. COMPRESSOR DOESN'T SEEM TO BE COMING ON. SUGGESTIONS ?.

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  • Audi Master
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Likely, the easiest problem to fix is gas refill. If your air conditioning system is fine however it has run out of gas, one hundred anywhere will get you a refill. This will get you cooled down again. However, if the gas has leaked from somewhere, then a simple refill will only mean the gas leaking again.

Before you assume that there is a leak from under the dash, ensure that there is a leak to begin with as a dash leak cannot be physically spotted without pulling the dash apart and getting inside. Generally, if you get a refill, and your air conditioning goes good for a few days then starts taking ages to cool the cabin down again, you can definitely assume a leak exists.

Sometimes, your evaporator core or heater core hasn't stuffed up, instead maybe a connecting pipe has developed a pin *****, which is enough to leak the gas. Either way, you will need to get into the dash, to find the pin *****, if indeed that is the problem, in order to replace or patch up the pipe. Now other things that can go wrong, could be a faulty heater tap, it may not be sending or receiving either way which means cold will work but heat wont, or the other way around. Another thing it could be, sometimes the actual switch that you use to point it to cold on the dash, sometimes that switch can stuff up, so when you point it to cold, because a short circuit has occurred, your air conditioning system wont actually receive the information that you want cold, and hence wont deliver the instruction (i.e. cold).

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Posted on Jun 07, 2010

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  • Contributor
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More than likely you have a leak in your system and do not have enough pressure. This will activate the low pressure switch to protect the compressor from damage due to lack of lubrication, which is supplied by the refrigerant which carries the lubricant.. Rick.

Posted on Jun 07, 2010

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Its possible the system is freezing up due to lack of air flow thru the evaporator, or a blockage in the freon lines.
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I also own a 2004 XG 350 and I agree with you. The first thought that comes to mind is a malfunction in the Auto AC control module (that's the virtical console unit which you adjust the fan speed, Auto, Mode, Recirculate, etc. are located). The other thought which occurs to me is that you might have a 'low engine coolant' condition (but that would eventually turn on your "Check Engine Light" and a code would be set indicating the Thermostat was not working properly). Did the Svc Mgr scan your vehicle for any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? If he didn't (or if he didn't have a technician do it), then you'll want to have that done so you'll at least know this may not be the problem. Sometimes the thermostat can stick 'OPEN" and the engine doesn't reach it's operating temperature (which is where you get the heat to warm up the inside of the car)... so, if the engine is 'COLD' so would also be the coolant and it's the coolant that brings the heat into the passenger compartment (via the heater core).

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This one is a difficult one to say. You could have a bad ac unit on the cars engine. Also when it goes back to 72 degrees your car is just displaying the temperature inside the car one of the features of a digital adjustments on these types of cars. Also you could have a leak and therefore not getting the cold air you wanted.

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2 Answers

Misreading outside temperature sensor on 2001 Audi A4


There are four sensors for ambient tempurature and they work in unison to provide information to the temp reading on the dash, the heater control head ( where to direct air, blending of warm/cold/outside/inside air flapper controls) depending on the ambient temp and the inside air temp sensor located just above the radio as well as the sun sensor on the top of the dash as well as the a/c compressor head.

When you start your car, the body control module takes the readings from all sensors, outside air temp located in front of the radiator, air temp sensor located in the airbox ( senses temp of air being drawn in from the outside into the air box), coolant temp, inside air temp sensor and the sun sensor on top of the dash (this is why it takes a few seconds for the climate control system to begine when you start the car). The intake air sensor is 1st priority, inside air second, coolant third, ambient 4th and sun 5th. For instance, if the sun sensor reads the sun is hot but the interior sensor reads cold, the inside akes priority. The goal is for the system to achieve a tempurature inside the car that matches the selected temp. It uses all of the sensors to set the system up to achieve that goal as quickly as possible.

Example; Its mid afternoon, sunny and 40 degrees outside adn your in stop and go traffic. The intake sensor reads 40 degrees, the outside sensor reads 60 degrees (heat from radiator...engine heat protrudes into cabin) and the sun sensor reads high (sun is strong). The system is set for 72. priority one sensor reads 40, inside sensor reads 65, ambient reads 60= system will blow hot air to the floor out put, dash outlets will lightly flow 65 degree air so the sun doesnt roast you yet your feet are cold(if it blew hot air from all outlets, your upper body would be hot but your legs/feet would be cold). as the interior sensor reaches desired temp, air will be distrubuted through thee dash, defrost and floor with the warmest air coming out the floor and defrost, coolest air out the dash vents. Its a complex system!

The two sensors that will screw the system up the most are the intake and interior sensors. the system will function reasonably well with just those two sensors though it wont blend air temps between outlets if the sun sensor isnt working. If the outside sensor fails, it simply uses the intake sensor, if the intake sensor fails it will rely on the front sensor. However, since the intake takes priority over the outside sensor, if the intake sensor sends incorrect resistance info rather than failing, it will take priority and cause the unit to malfunction such as in your case.

The intake air sensor can be changed from the outside with patience. If it where me, I would pay the two hrs labor and let the dealer do it right.

Kevin,
Kevins Small Engine service,
South Berwick ME. 03908

May 01, 2009 | 2001 Audi A4

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