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DIY & replaced brake hub. How do you bleed brake lines?

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You'll need to pump the brakes and hold the pedal down, then have someone open the brake bleeder on the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, after the fluid and air comes out, close the bleeder and repeat until you only have fluid coming out. Then go to the next fartherest wheel and repeat the process. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the resevoir.

Posted on Jun 07, 2010

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How to diagnose a bad brake boosterOn my 95 GMC Suburban K 1500 4 x 4 5.7 v8


Hi, your basic symptoms will be. Your brake pedal. Will be very hard to push. When the pedal is engaged there will be a large vacuum leak, usually causing the engine to be very ruff or stall. If its bad enuff, youll hear the the air leak when pedal is depressed, hope that helps.

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How to bleed abs system after brake lines replaced


My mechanic told me about a car he struggled with that finally he read the manual and it was a self bleeding car. He did the initialization and the car burped and gulped for awhile and then was done. But, I don't know what kind of car it was so heads up to all you diy guys out there.

Mar 06, 2015 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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I replaced front pads on my 2000 crown vic. The caliper is stuck on the passenger side .i bleed the brakes an it was fine befor i changed the pads is the caliper shot ???


If the brake fluid has NOT been changed on any vehicle
every 2 years since it was new, you can be assured that after
10 years ,the inside of the calipers are all rust

Replace the calipers & the rubber flex hoses, as they collapse
inside also.

You MUST remove ALL Rust from any surface the pads or calipers slide on & use anti-seize on those surfaces

You must remove all rust from wheel hub face,both side of the rotor & mounting face of the wheels & lube them also

You have to remove & clean the caliper slide pins/bolts & use
the synthetic caliper lube inside there

Need a helper to bleed the brakes & have to start at the back
& do all 4 corners

Nov 14, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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I changed out left rear hub assembly on a 2010


The proportioning valve has blocked off your rears brakes from getting fluid. My suggestion is to by a syringe 50cc 2oz size fill with brake fluid and force fluid backwards to master cylinder this should center the valve and remove the air.

Sep 01, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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Grease in rear wheel hub


The rear brake cylinders are located inside the hub with the brake shoes on drum brakes...(common in 2004 Rangers on rear only) The brake cylinders are a "wear item" with seals...we used to rebuild the cylinder with new seals...best today to buy new brake cylinders to replace the leakey ones...You will need to bleed all 4 brake line/wheel connections after the replacement. Hope this helps.

Oct 14, 2013 | 2004 Ford Ranger

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I have a1997 plymouth grand voyager and it has been leaking brake fluid that is showing on the back rim what is causing the leak is it the brake cylinder or the brake line


Hi, the problem is usually the brake wheel cylinder inside. Put the car in park but do not set the brake. Jack up the wheel and remove the wheel and drum. At the top of the hub assembly you will see a cylinder between the tops of the shoes with rubber boots on each side. If fluid leaks out when you pull back the edge of either boot, the cylinder is leaking and must be replaced.
Purchase a new cylinder and also some brake fluid if you don't have any on hand. Check your reservoir. Hopefully it is not empty, or you would have drawn air into the system. Fill up the reservoir before replacing the wheel cylinder.
To replace, use a vice grip plier to remove the return spring that holds the shoe tops together, then pull the shoe tops away from the cylinder. Place something under the hub to catch the fluid that will leak during the replacement.
Loosen the hydraulic fitting on the back of the hub using a line wrench of the correct size, then remove the 2 bolts holding the cylinder to the hub (see picture below). Have the new cylinder handy and disconnect the line from the old cylinder. Quickly remove the old cylinder and put in the new one. Screw the line fitting on finger tight and then replace the bolts. Replace the return spring between the shoes. Tighten the line and open the bleeder valve above the fitting about one turn. The line may gravity bleed the air out. Give it a few minutes. If clear fluid starts to leak out and no bubbles, tighten the bleeder and reassemble the wheel. If it does not gravity bleed, replace the drum and have someone assist with a pressure bleed. With the bleeder closed, have the assistant pump the brake pedal and then hold it down while you open and close the bleeder. They should not let up on the pedal until you have closed the bleeder. repeat this process of ejecting air and fluid until only fluid comes out. Then replace the wheel and let the car down.
Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

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Jan 15, 2011 | 1997 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

Front wheel bearing replacement. how big a job? are abs hub and non-abs hub interchangeable?


technically ,,,, theres no abs hub or non abs hub.... All of the ABS components are up by the master cylinder... What you are seeing is a Speed sensor ... just unbolt brake caliper and remove the 3 or 4 bolts that hold on the hub assembly on ... and reverse order to put back on .... and as long as you dont loosen the brake line you wont have to bleed the brakes .... should only take a hour or two ...

Nov 20, 2010 | 2003 Pontiac Aztek

1 Answer

Replaced power boster master cylinder and brakes and the brakes are still spongy


Indicates air still in the system. I suggest that you start at the master cyl, remembering to keep it full during & after each attempt at bleeding the system and to only fill it by using a funnel & allowing the brake fluid run down the side to eliminate new air being put into the system.

Bleed the master cylinder first by loosening those lines while someone has pumped up the system & is holding the pedal to the floor. Make sure your assistant is not releasing the brake pedal before you are tightening the lines and that all brake pedal movement is done slowly, especially releasing the brake pedal. It causes fluid to rise into the air, bring air back into the fluid.

Next, go to the farthest brake away from the master cylinder & bleed it, working yourself to the next farthest until you finish with the closest brake. This prevents air from switching lines on you during the process.

If there are no leaks & you have followed this method, there shouldn't be any air in the system & your brakes should be good.

good luck

Feb 15, 2010 | 1996 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

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Air in the brake line ,bleed brakes ,replace pads


Please Check Fluid flow Divider Valve & Servo Unit.

Dec 22, 2009 | 1999 Ford Taurus

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Pontiac G-6 break problems


make sure brake hose not twisted. also possible shield from behind rotor rubbing its bolted behind hub & knuckle also check & make sure the metal shim for brake lining ears is not rubbing on rotor on the center edge. also sometime s there is a difference on inboard & outboard pads there is a dimple you may have switched. also with the wheel off & caliper mounted to knuckle you should be able to move in & out by hand if pins are good.

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