Question about 1993 Saturn SL2

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The engine idles high and will not slow down.

Where is the routing for the vacuum hose?

Where do the signal for rpm drop?

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If this is only at idle you might want to check the idle air control valve for malfunction. Outside of that you're on the right track with the vacuum lines. I usually start with the one going from the brake booster to the manifold. If they all visually appear to be connected and undamaged get a can of carb cleaner or starter fluid or the like and spray a little bit around each hose one at a time. If the idle changes when sprayed you've found your leak!

Posted on Nov 04, 2010

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The cause of high idle are vacuum leaks or a bad or dirty Idle air control. Check pcv valve to see if its working properly. pinch off the hose that supplies the PCV valve. The engine speed should drop slightly. If the engine returns to a normal idle speed, the PCV valve should be replaced. The Idle air control regulates engine rpms.

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What cause a vacuum hose on the driver side of the engine to collapse


The hose that collapses is weak and needs replacing. The engine vacuum cannot be all that great, normally runs around 17-22psi at idle and only increases a little during deceleration, not above about 26-28psi. Not enough to collapse a good vacuum hose.

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1986 Mercury grand Marquis cutting out when slowing down nearly impossible to start. Oil changed, new air filter, new plugs and wires, new fuel filter...?


I had an experience with a 1984 T-Bird with a 302. The 1986 may have the same system. With that car there was a temperature sensor that affected the idle speed once the car was close to warming up.
With even later models there is a "cold start sequence" which is an electronic way of replacing the ancient choke. The "cold" feature set the fuel mix and the RPM and made starts easier. Now you did not say if the starting problem was when hot or cold or both.

The poor performance when slowing down can be related to the idle rpm being set too low once the thermal switch cuts out. What happens is someone tunes the engine for a rpm that may be correct for the car, but the thermal switch has not dropped the rpm yet. Then when the car really heats up, the idle drops even lower and when you take off your foot from the throttle, the throttle closes too much and the engine cuts out when you are slowing.

Put in a new thermostat. The idle settings can not be set until the thermal switches activate to a run position. Also you may have some vacuum lines crossed which are making the cold and hot cycles reverse. There should be a label with vacuum line routing shown stuck on a part that holds the radiator.

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Doing the opposite of what it should. Don't know, but the idle should be awful close to 800 on a warmed engine. You may have a vacuum leak causing your high idle. Check all your vacuum hoses for condition and proper routing. Pull one hose off and create a vacuum leak. It should cause your idle to raise. If it doesn't change the idle, there may already be a vacuum leak. By spraying carburetor cleaner around suspect areas, you can also find vac. leaks. The spray will be sucked into engine and change the rpm's.
Other possible causes might be a sensor ( CTS?TPS?) or an idle control valve, or some other computer controlled part.

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2 Answers

RPM run high and slow to drop down


There could be two problems i can think of here. First would be a computer problem. The computer might be telling the car to run at a high speed. A problem like this might be fixable from your local garage. A problem like this could be expensive. Second, as engines age, they natually tend to idle higher. This is a normal occurance. This is accompanied by a decrease of gas mileage. For me, i went from normal 26mpg down to around 22mpg. A problem like this can be fixed by using fuel additives aimed at high mileage cars. I have used fuel injector cleaners, and that has brought my car back to her glorydays of 1996. I hope this helps, if not let me know.

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Here is the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake

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Check your vacuum lines, make sure there is no leaks, and go from there, then all you electrical connection in the engine compartment.
I have a 1996 Jetta Trek Edition, the hoses, and wire harness, are so brittle, any movement can cause hoses and wire insulation to crack.

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1 Answer

Idle out of control.


check all your vacuum hoses and the throttle body itself for a vacuum leaks if the hoses replace as nessasary if to check for throttle body get can of carb cleaner and spray around base of throttle body and sides not in it if idle raises you have a vacuum leak goto a good parts store and ask for a rebuild kit don't goto auto zone or advance they don't carry them

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1 Answer

High revs


being a fuel injected engine , there are many reasons this could be happening.
from the top , lets check the Manifold Absolute Pressure (M.A.P.) sensor , as it is easiest.
Find the MAP sensor , it has a couple a wires and a vacuum tube going to it and is on the firewall or fender support under the bonnet.
Disconnect the wire harness from it (small plug with wires).
If the engines RPMs drop to normal , replace the MAP sensor.

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