2000 grand cherokee laradeo with4.7 liter,vehicle stalls after warm up.then refuses to start.the gauges all return to zero with low fuel light on ,idiot lights all on no codes spins over fine won't start then suddenly low fuel light goes out gauges return to normal and vehicle will start.Sometimes it takes 10mins.or 1 hour.not predictable owned jeep over 2years no problems.
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Re: 2000 grand cherokee V-8 stalls out
Start the engine cold and as it warms up, pull the vacuum hose off the EGR valve and see if it keeps running. If it does, replace the EGR valve. The reason the lights are all coming on and the gauges go to zero is because the engine dies and when it starts they return to normal. The EGR valve can stay stuck closed from carbon deposits which is fine for the warm up mode but it needs to open when the engine is warm or it will choke it out. This is not unusual and you will need to replace it. Look on the internet for your make and model an image of your EGR valve it will be easier than explaining it to you. They are in most cases on or connected to the intake manifold or intake plenum.*** Please rate me on this answer.***
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You should have a test port on the Fuel Supply rail, use a tool from a local auto parts "Tool Loaner program" where you can borrow tools for free,w/a deposit of course,then follow the steps provided;
MPI Fuel System Pressure Test
The MPI fuel system used in vehicles equipped with a 4.OL engine employs a vacuum balanced pressure regulator. Fuel pressure should be approximately 55-69 kPa (8-10 psi) lower with the vacuum line attached to the regulator than with the vacuum line disconnected. System fuel should be 214 kPa (31 psi) with the vacuum line connected to the regulator and 269 kPa (39 psi) with the vacuum line disconnected. CAUTION: Some fuel may be discharged when connecting fuel gauge to fuel rail.
Connect a 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail (Fig. 7).
Remove vacuum line from pressure regulator.
Start the vehicle.
Note gauge reading. With vacuum line disconnected, fuel pressure should be approximately 269 kPa (39 psi).
Connect vacuum line to pressure regulator. Note gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be approximately 214 kPa (31 psi).
If fuel pressure is not approximately 55-69 kPa (8-10 psi) higher with vacuum line removed from regulator, inspect pressure regulator vacuum line for leaks, kinks or blockage. CAUTION: Fuel pressure will rise to as much as 655 kPa (95 psi) when the fuel return tine is pinched shut, shut engine down immediately after pinching oft fuel return line.
If fuel pressure is low, momentarily pinch shut the hose section of the fuel return line. If fuel pressure remains low, inspect the fuel supply line, fuel filter, and fuel rail inlet for blockage. If fuel pressure rises replace fuel pressure regulator.
If fuel pressure is above specifications, inspect the fuel return line for kinks and blockage.
Remove the cap from the pressure test port in the fuel rail.
Connect a 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge to the pressure fitting on the fuel rail (Fig. 7).
Start the vehicle. Pressure should be approxi- mately 214 kPa (31 psi) with the vacuum hose connected to the pressure regulator and 269 kPa (39 psi) with the vacuum hose removed from the pressure regulator.
If the pressure is not to specification, check the following before replacing the fuel pressure regulator:
4a - Inspect the fuel supply and return lines/hoses for kinks or restricting bends
4b - Check the fuel pump flow rate. A good fuel pump will deliver at least 1 liter of fuel per minute with the fuel return line pinched off. If the fuel pump does not pump adequately, then inspect the fuel system for a plugged fuel filter or fuel pump inlet filter (sock). Fuel pump flow rate can be done by connecting one end of an old A/C gauge hose to the fuel test port on the fuel rail and inserting the other end of the hose into a container of at least 1 liter capacity. Run the fuel pump by installing a jumper wire into diagnostic connector terminals D1-5 and D1-6. Be sure to pinch off the fuel return line or most of the fuel will be returned to the fuel tank.
Pop into to your local garage and have a diagnostic test carried out.
Listen to the advise given. It may save you lots of money, especially if you start the "guessing" game.
It does sound like a part may be blocked or failed though, but the sytem needs to be tested thoroughly first.
check the O2 sensors in the exhaust manifold with a automotive meter not a code reader ,then trade it in for a diesel manual version as these are impressive but 4.7 litre gas guzler at our petrol prices about 10 dollars a gallon in the -uk and around 7/8 dollars here in spain this vehicle you couldnt give away here
I had a similar problem with a Ford Excursion, it turned out to be intake manifold gaskets. It would stall then start right up again, it ran fine during warm up. But, once fully warmed up it would stall at stop lights and stuff like that. I did get a check engine light, the code was lean condition. I don't know on a Jeep, sorry I can't be of more help.
Yes, but my problem came in a 1995 wrangler 4.0 liter. It is the camshaft sensor unit. Mine was in the distributor assembly. Get one I can almost garauntee that is what it is. I cannot however garauntee my spelling! Hope this helps!