They should be 3/16" but if you want to be sure, take a quarter inch wrench and put the open end over the line if it is sloppy on the line it is 3/16" , if it fits nicely, it is 1/4" . that is the only two sizes they could of used.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
have you replaced the brake fluid and bled the system under pressure, starting with rear wheel diagonally opposite the master cylinder in engine bay. and work way down to shorts. removing all bubbles from the lines. any air in system can travel. you need a brake bleeding kit with pressure lead that fits the cap size on the brake filler. also remember while doing this if you have manual gearbox and hydraulic clutch don't press down on the clutch pedal.
Not familiar with this model, but most cars have only one output and one return line to/from the master cylinder. The output line usually goes to a proportioner valve downstream from the master cylinder. This valve applies more pressure sooner to the rear wheels, then to the front. This prevents "fishtailing" when braking hard. If you follow the forward-most line away from the master cylinder, you'll probably encounter a block where this line feeds in and two or four lines feed out. That's the proportioner valve.
It's the master cylinder, Theresa. It will need replacing, because the internal seals are not holding against pressure. It is not a job for just anybody, but somebody with some experience in bleeding the master cylinder and then bleeding the individual wheel brakes could do it. It's a procedure for getting all air out of the system after replacing parts.
It sounds as though where the rear brake lines meet up with the master cylinder; there is probably a piece of dirt in the lines that could be blocking any fluid from getting in. To test this, I would remove the brake lines from the master cylinder and then remove the master cylinder. Once done, have the master cylinder cleaned inside out. This will remove the dirt particles that are clogging your lines.
soft and mushy brakes is a sign that there could be air in the brake system or your master cylinder has a bad O-ring in it.
first thing to check is to see if there is fluid in your brake fluid reservoir,, if the fluid level is low - then re-fill the reservoir and bleed the brake lines ( all the brake lines ). if the reservoir is full - then I would assume that the master cylinder is bad and needs to be replaced,, but there is also a chance that you have a leak somewhere in a line or at the distribution valve -- make sure you look for the leak.
if you are still having troubles - please feel free to write me back here and I will do my best to walk you thru the next steps needed.
use a flare wrench and remove the two brake lines
then remove the the two nuts that hold it to the fire wall
then remove the master cylinder reservoir because your
going to have to put it on the new one
drain out any brake fluid from it
in stall the reservoir on the new master cylinder
now you'll have to prime the new master cylinder
put the master cylinder in a vise and put brake fluid into it
now place your fingers over the two holes that the brake line go into
use a large phillips screw driver and push the piston in and out about 10 times
but do it slowly. make shore to keep your fingers over the brake line holes .
now install it back in
remember to bleed your brake system when your done
on 1997 dodge ram 1500s you can look at the back of the front brakes and if you do have 4wheel abs you will have a brake line and an electrical line running tto the brake caliper. you can also look at the master cylinder, on the right side of the power brake booster (if youre looking from the front of the truck) there will be a metal brake distribution block if it has 2 lines running out of it you have 2 wheel abs...4 lines means 4 wheel abs
Brake rubber flex line could be collapsed,,or kinked,,,i suggest loosening of the line at the master cylinder distribution block (this will give you the ability of loosening off one line at a time,,and have some one push the brake pedal down,,if you see fluid at this point then you know it has to be the line or the caliper. if you get no pressure from the distribution block then its the master cylinders fault