I need to know where to take my ECU to get it tested to see if it is bad or still good.

DODGE RAM. (per OBD2 is OBD1 dodge unique) USA LAWS.
all plugs dead, we check them all. not just one.
USA spec car? v10.
learn that all ECU/PCM cuts fuel if the ECU detects lost spark
it cuts fuel so spark is first, on all spark plugs
are the plugs over 100k miles old?
ASD WORKS LIKE THIS IF ECU SEES SPARK DEAD ECU DISABLES THE ASD, THIS PREVENTS CRASH AND BURN AS SEEN ON TV.
ALL FUSES GOOD RIGHT> WE TEST THEM.

KEY ON CEL MUST GLOW, THIS KEY ON EVENT IS THE LAMP TEST. IT MUST GLOW ONCE AND CAN GO OUT. AFTER.
IF NOT THE PCM LOST POWER, CALLED BLOWN FUSE.

THE CURE IS BASED Purely off ASD dead.
on all cars Chrysler. even jeeps,
The PCM seens any thing dangerous ASD drops
or even fails top close;. once

my guess is you do not know how to test fuses?????
there are 3 tests, in increased value.
1; gander at it ,looks blown it is. but looking good can be bad.
2: Ohms test can lie if hair line cracks here. but is great test.
3:live test, 12vdc, key on , both sides of fuse 12vdc is good
12 vdc in, and 0v out is a bad fuse (or bad fuse and shorted load)
nothing on earth bets a live test, pass /fail .

learn now the CEL lamp works key on (self test)
learn too how to do THE SM book ODB1 CEL code flash test.'called then Diagnostic jumper.
https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

in 1995 USA this ECU has DLC connector, that has jumper pair of pins called Diagnostic, test.

quote

When the CHECK ENGINE light comes on and stays on (after start-up), this indicates that a code (or codes) has been stored in memory. To retrieve this information for purposes of troubleshooting, cycle the ignition switch ON- OFF- ON- OFF- ON within five seconds. The check engine lamp will then flash the DTC(s). Each code, if there is more than one, will be preceded by a four second pause, to distinguish it from the previous code. An example of a DTC would be as follows:

• Lamp on for two seconds, then turns off.
• Lamp flashes four times, then pauses, then flashes one time.
• Lamp pauses four seconds, then flashes four times
• Lamp flashes seven times.
• code 47, per SM.

codes 43 is ASD relay is dead. bad
code 43 is any bad spark coil , kills ASD dead.
53 dead ECU
54 cam sensor dead., code 11 is crank sensor dead.
63 dead ECU
55 = end of report

Installing J&R ECU - YouTube

? 2:29
www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRyDo0-JBQ0
Mar 19, 2012 - Uploaded by Aaron Wise
Installing J&R ECU on 2007 Acura TL-S. ... 2013 Acura TL SH-AWD Review, Walkaround, Exhaust, Test Drive - Duration: 14:16. by Redline ...

Immobilizer bad? ECU bad? - AcuraZine Community

acurazine.com/forums/problems.../immobilizer-bad-ecu-bad-863716/

Jul 21, 2012 - It says to have the ecu reprogrammed and if that doesn't work then to .....Join Date: Oct 2007 .... If relay tests good move on, if not replace it. total cost under $20 .... Check Emissions CEL, hrothgar02, Second Generation RDX ... Scanner not detecting ECU
May 22, 2012
Dealership "Re-Programmed" 07 TL Type S computer??
Jun 22, 2011
Resetting ECU makes me happy :)
Oct 9, 2009
Resetting your ECU: After mods and Environment changes
Jan 9, 2008
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wow, no jeep stated. nor what year, nor what engine.

ill not even beg country (exports are diffr)

below is all ways, discounting bulb tests.



i guess you mean the key on only self test fails with CEL?

ok the PCM glows the lamp at key on, to tell you the PCM is happy and that it passes its rudimentry self checks

basically means its alive.

if the lamp fails to glow ? (all ways, i fix ECU so know this)

1. power to lamp dead (fuse ) yes fuses can crack (unseen)



2. lamp bad, (test it with a battery)



3. cluster wiring to lamp bad, or that wire from PCM to lamp bad.



4. ECU bad, yes, some bad ECU's can run an engine.



5. ECU stuck in backup mode, (think limphome but 2 times worse)

in your case id say bad ECU, or bad wire from ECU to CEL.



no year stated, so is it 1988 with that silly junk RENIX EFI with no working CEL or is the unstated car 1993+ where the CEL started working for the first time?

if 93 or newer, we can connect a scan tool, and scan it.

and see , omg , comms are dead, so ECU is in backup mode.

(backup mode is like lawn mower mode, sure it runs but like crap)

ask? can give vivid details of all modes.....



or comm's is ok, and scans and we see DTCs stored and the CEL status in the scanner says ON,"aka, active CEL"



if it says ON< and is not on, then the wire is bad or the

CEL transistor in the ECU blew up. (common with folks using wrong bulb and overheating this poor transistor) replaced many i have.



there are some facts. and is poorly stated. due to NO YEAR !



retired, ET,

old post
" ecu wont read bur" ><<<< i can not decode this.
bur, vur,nur, byr,bir, nah, bue, but, ah its BUT? (type analysis, me bad)
ECU won't read ,but fues is good, (test fuse, never just look)
What does wont read mean. by what tool by what actions, by you.?
IF the ECU will not scan with a new scan too the fuses are blown.
period! (or wrong scan tool;) this year is VPW OBD2. (ask)

simple answer, alldata.com RTM.
long answer.
we cant answer on any car lacking engine size (type) and country.
sorry. can't. and be RIGHT.
in uSA its 3 engine this year.
2.2 L I4
3.2 L V6
3.5 L V6 each can be quite different, post engine.

Generics.
horn don't blow can be blown fuse. test them. the one marked HORN being first.
can be bad horn relay or bad clockspring. or even a bad horn
to test any horn, HOT wire it. to any 12vdc battery.

ECU issues, gee, what country and engine and what are the Symptoms of your ECU. in details. running or not.
hot or cold, driving or not.

no it does not.
not ever.
it may run a test on the ECT and tell you it reads wrong, sure.
but that ONLY means the test failed, a technician
then tests it by hand , then the wires.
no ecu can tell you what part on any car is bad, ever.
it ONLY a test.

what does ECT read , in ohms cold 3000 or more? what?
then ECT read hot, 300?
if the ECT reads per the FSM chart then its good.
so the wires are bad.
i'ts that simple..
rare but possible is intermittent ECT the cause.

The PCM checks the ECT 3 ways.
1: open
2: shorted.
3: too slow to rise. (bad engine coolant thermostat , and others) ask

so in case 3 , the ECU is not saying the ECT is bad. it dont know.
it only sees it reads wrong, and never ever knows the why.

replacing PCM is the last, why do that. which jeep,? wrangler? GC?
ECU is not bad and is almost always (GIGO) garbage in ,nets garbage out, now and for ever....
all most all errors are
1: input errors.
2: or bad output actuators or gee the engine it self.

now lets work
2302
ever see this>? or the FSM, the FSM book is way cheaper than any knee jerk ECU swap.. ouch.
http://engine-codes.com/p2302.html
out of FSM. actual
(F342) ASD OUTPUT CIRCUIT
(K19) COIL CONTROL 1 CIRCUIT OPEN
(K19) COIL CONTROL 1 CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
COIL
PCM (last ) never 1st ever....
so the coil pack is 4 pins and 3 coils, one one is hot key on.
the other 3 are 3 coils, coil 1 is bad,,
from a pure tech stand point its.
1: bad coil (open or shorted) bad wires, open or shorted or bad ECU.
we never condemn any ECU unless we do the simple lamp tests.
etc. case in point below.
here are the FSM steps, so easy to do.... (truncated, read your FSM)
1: coil 1 removed, connector.
key on is pin 2, 12v, if no fix that first. ( bad power distra. or fuse)
yes, 12v. so.
then, use a test lamp to pin 3 and ground
Pin 3 is COIL 1, !
crank car , does light flash? (any small 12v lamp works) 0.1 amps are less.
1: yes, flash PCM good, coil bad.
no?
test lamp tests continue....
2: stuck on lamp , wire is grounded out or bad PCM (pull PCM C2 conn, ? still tuck on?, yes, bad harness !
3: stuck lamp off? . this is harness wire cut or PCM bad.-
check continuity end to end on this wire. if good , bad ECU.
on a car with nice clean harnesses, no damage to conn?
its a bad coil.
the coil can in fact can be bench tested...
that to, is in the books.
(ohms tests, and make real spark) do so but do not exceed max dwell on the coil "smoke tested boom."( you need a pulse generator , or coil tester)
easy to make them .
there you go.... ECU last. for ever and ever.....

this is a TOYOTA engine. in truth. what YEAR?
but they all trouble shoot the same. ( i can do them)
TBI or MPI (x4)
the fuel injectors fail in the following ways. there is a test for each and is covered 100% in the FSM. or at Alldata dot com.
but here are the ways, ( ill list all tests only if you ask)

1: clogged (partial to packed full) it has 10 micron screens too.
2; leaking
3: Mag coil open. infinity , some read 10ohms good. FSM time.
any DMM meter on ohms. works.
4: ECU not firing 1 injector. (NOID lamp test)
5: ECU not fairing them all , all 4, this is normal if ECU sees no spark after all you dont want to be like in TV, crash and burn.
6: Injector rail not at 30psi.
0 bad. ,1 bad, 20 bad, 30 good, 60 the regulator is stuck closed
and motor floods x4 cyl.
7: fuel pressure reg, not regulating causing injectors to fail.
8: ECu over injecting, do to bad inputs to ECU.
9: thermostat bad, coolant never holds 180F or more.
causing ECU to go CRAZY, oops,
pyro IR gun to the rescue.

1: are all fuses good.
2: is the CEL lamp on ,key on ,. y/n
3: does the cel go out , running y/n
this 3 are always top of list before any injector fussing.

a better post is , post car spec, and symptoms,
we are blind, less blind, 100x better answers.
post back, EFI is easy with good help.

Sometime unplugging sensors is a good way to find a bad one. If the incorrect reading is being supplied to the ecm, sometimes it can't tell.
When a sensor is disconnected, the ecm knows and uses a default value.
Obviously this doesn't work with the crank sensor.

One thing to check is the connector at the coolant resevoir. Sometimes coolant will migrate through the wires and cause all kinds of trouble.

There is a way to test the ecu to see if it's working properly. Go to a different mechanic and ask them to test the ecu.It is also possible that the icm ( ignition control module) is faulty. When an engine is changed out, especially with a used engine, the ecm is bad and /or your old distributor was used and the icm burnt - this is not uncommon and may not be by fault of your mechanic. A special scanner is needed to test these components.

I don't know how bad the flood is, but if its high enough your ECU may have also got damage. the ecu locate underneath the dashboard upper left side corner near the foot fuse box. if it has come in contact with the water I can assure you 99% you will need to replace it. the ECU is the brain to the car, water can also short out the ECU if one try to start the car while all the wires and connectors are still soak and wet. If you have to replace the ECU, get it from the junk yard or ebay, new from the dealer will cost you arms and a leg. In this situations you will have to narrow it down one by one, you starting off with a good idea seeing if you getting sparks and fuel. 1st I would check and see if your ECU is good and in working condition, there is no way you can bench test it at home, I don't know of any place that offer bench testing, if you find one, it will cost you about 75-100 bucks after shipping and handling. you can actually get one off ebay for 50-60 bucks used. If you think the ECU is still good, then check the cam and crank senors, one turn on the fuel pump and the other turn on the sparks. check the basic things like fuse and relays, plugs, caps, rotor and coil. for beginners, I would go down to any auto parts store and pick up Haynes auto repair book for 20 bucks, its a great bible include pictures step by step and its worth the investment. hope that help some good luck!