Element on distributor rotor keeps breaking off disabling the vehicle. How do you fix the problem?

I'm sorry to hear that you're having trouble with your 1989 Mitsubishi Eclipse. Here are a few things that you can check to try to get spark to the spark plugs: Check the spark plug wires: The spark plug wires can become damaged over time, which can prevent spark from reaching the spark plugs. Inspect the spark plug wires for any cracks or breaks. If you find any damage, replace the spark plug wires. Check the spark plugs: The spark plugs can also become fouled or damaged over time, which can prevent spark from reaching the spark plugs. Remove the spark plugs and inspect them for any damage. If you find any damage, replace the spark plugs. Check the ignition coil: The ignition coil is responsible for generating the spark that ignites the fuel in the engine. If the ignition coil is faulty, it can prevent spark from reaching the spark plugs. Inspect the ignition coil for any damage or signs of wear. If you find any damage, replace the ignition coil. Check the distributor cap and rotor: The distributor cap and rotor are responsible for distributing the spark from the ignition coil to the spark plugs. If the distributor cap or rotor is faulty, it can prevent spark from reaching the spark plugs. Inspect the distributor cap and rotor for any damage or signs of wear. If you find any damage, replace the distributor cap and rotor. If you have checked all of these things and you are still not getting spark to the spark plugs, it is possible that there is a problem with the engine's computer. In this case, it is best to take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic for diagnosis and repair. Here are some tips to help prevent these problems from happening in the future: Change your spark plugs and spark plug wires according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Keep your engine clean and well-maintained. Avoid running your vehicle on low fuel. If you notice any problems with your vehicle's performance, have it checked out by a qualified mechanic as soon as possible.

Deborah, make sure you are using AC Delco brand cap and rotor.
For one reason or another, aftermarkets arch the spark and short out very quickly. I chased this same problem down for months until I read about this problem. I feel your pain! I personally have never had a problem with aftermarkets in any vehicle except this one. Also, make sure the plastic tabs on the bottom of the cap (on the distributor) are in tact. These break off easily, therefore the cap will be loose. There IS a fix for it though. Bought mine at Napa, for this exact problem. Little piece of metal that goes on the bottom for the screws to go into.

Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement (5.0L, 5.7L)

Removal Procedure

Caution: Refer to

Caution: Unless directed otherwise, the ignition and start switch must be in the OFF or LOCK position, and all electrical loads must be OFF before servicing any electrical component. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent an electrical spark should a tool or equipment come in contact with an exposed electrical terminal. Failure to follow these precautions may result in personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.

For Vehicles equipped with OnStar® (UE1) with Back Up Battery:

The Back Up Battery is a redundant power supply to allow limited OnStar® functionality in the event of a main vehicle battery power disruption to the VCIM (OnStar®module). Do not disconnect the main vehicle battery or remove the OnStar® fuse with the ignition key in any position other than OFF. Retained accessory power (RAP) should be allowed to time out or be disabled (simply opening the driver door should disable RAP) before disconnecting power. Disconnecting power to the OnStar® module in any way while the ignition is On or with RAP activated may cause activation of the OnStar® Back-Up Battery (BUB) system and will discharge and permanently damage the back-up battery. Once the Back-Up Battery is activated it will stay on until it has completely discharged. The BUB is not rechargeable and once activated the BUB must be replaced.



1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



2. Disconnect the spark plug wires and ignition coil wire from the distributor.


3. Disconnect the CMP sensor harness connector from the distributor.



4. Remove the distributor cap screws.



5. Remove the distributor cap.



6. Remove the rotor screws.



7. Remove the rotor.
   


8. Remove the CMP sensor screws.



9. Align the square slot in the reluctor wheel with the CMP sensor.



10. Remove the CMP sensor.
    

Installation Procedure

Important: Do not use the old cap screws, CMP sensor screws, or rotor screws. Use replacement screws that have been coated with a thread locking compound. Precoated replacement cap and CMP sensor screws can be acquired using P/N 10475922 (pkg of 10 screws). Precoated replacement rotor screws can be acquired using P/N 10475924 (pkg of 10 screws).

1. Align the square slot in the reluctor wheel with the CMP sensor.



2. Insert the CMP sensor through the reluctor wheel slot.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.




3. Install new CMP sensor mounting screws.
   
   Tighten:
   
   Tighten the fasteners to 1.6-2.8 [n-m] (14-25 lb in).
   

Important: The locating tabs on the rotor are necessary for correct alignment of the rotor. If the tabs are missing or damaged, replace the rotor.



4. Install the rotor onto the reluctor wheel.



5. Install new rotor fasteners.
   
   Tighten:
   
   Tighten the screws to 1.5-2.4 [n-m] (13-22 lb in)
   


6. Install the distributor cap.



7. Install new distributor cap screws.
   
   Tighten:
   
   Tighten the screws to 1.8-3.0 [n-m] (16-26 lb in)
   


8. Connect the CMP sensor harness connector.


9. Connect the spark plug wires and ignition coil wire.



10. Connect the negative battery cable.

I did this also recently, but I also changed the distributor cap and rotor. THAT was my problem....Distributor screw tabs on distributor are plastic and can break off.....1st...Make sure you installed the wires in the right firing order. If they're correct, check your cap and rotor and make sure they are seated correctly. If the tabs broke off, Napa makes a metal U shaped piece that fixes this.

Need more information about the vehicle but sounds like the distributor cap and or rotor may be corroded. The points of contact can become covered with electrical corrosion. if you clean the four points and the rotor under the distributor cap it may fix the problem.

Best will be to remove the distributor and to use as a sample.

When your Honda cuts off there is alot of reason it does that,one possiblity it doesnt see a crank signal and its breaking down,or the cam signal both of these are in the distributor, or the rotor can be slipping out of position,(distributor rotor). or the ignitor breaking down,to a ignition switch the electrical componenet breaking down,to even a plugged fuel filter causing the vehicle to starve for fuel.Just for maintance concern replace the fuel filter.

Hi There.
Check and see if you have the correct rotor arm, check the hieght against the old one if you still have it, if that doesnt do any thing check and make sure that the rotor arm is seated properly on the rotor shaft..

If you only replaced the distributor cap and did not remove the distributor or loosen the holdown bolt that keeps it from moving, turning the engine won't have any effect on the timing.. Chances are that you put the wires back on the cap in the wrong order or began at the wrong starting point. As long as the distributor has not been removed from the engine, to find #1, turn the crank to 0 and look at the rotor. If it points to the firewall, turn the engine one more time 'till it points to the front. Wherever it points is #1.If you loosened the distributor and turned it, turn the housing 'till the closest wire tower aligns with the rotor, then lock it down
If it is a v8 engine, the order is 18436572 in the direction the rotor turns when cranking or running. You can look up the order for v6 engines in any haynes or chilton manual.
To set the timing without a timing light, start the engine, put the transmission in drive and keep your foot on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving, then apply more gas...at some point the engine will begin to rattle (detonate) if the timing is too far advanced. You need to keep turning the distributor and repeating the process till it detonates, then turn the distributor back about 1/4". That should give you a good "ballpark" timing setting 'till you can get someone to do it correctly. (process is called power timing) When finished, tighten the distributor down so it does not change while driving. NOTE: When power timing, allways have room in front of the vehicle so you won't crash into anything, and NEVER permit anyone to stand in front of it.

check engine light comes on after driving any given amount of time. Replaced egnition modual didn't work, replaced pcv valve, didn't work, replaced stater module, didn't work, replaced the fuel filter, didn't work. Took it in for diagnostics and was told that it is either the egnition module, computer, or the wires that are attached to the computer that go out to different parts in the engine.