Question about 1995 Buick LeSabre

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The fan for the heater/vent/AC is stuck on high and remains running when the vehicle is shut off. I am able to switch from vent to heater to AC to defrost, but the fan always stays on high. This is a 95 Buick LeSabre.

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  • hosea12_6 Sep 18, 2010

    I found the panel of relays under the fuses on the firewall. What I have not been able to do is figure out which relay is the one I need. There are eight relays, six have exactly the same numbers, and the other two are matching. I have tried to find out which one I need by checking out books, but haven't found it yet. Any suggestions?

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  • Master
  • 4,669 Answers

Does this have auto temp control where you set the temp number or does it have a knob you set 1-5. I'll bet you have auto temp. and you need to replace the blower control module under the hood.

Posted on Jun 05, 2010

  • hosea12_6 Jun 06, 2010

    It does not have auto temp. It only has a slider for temp, and a slider for fan levels. Moving the fan level does not stop the fan from running at full speed.

    I have disconnected the fan currently so that I can get the battery recharged and run the car.

  • Clint Smock
    Clint Smock Jun 06, 2010

    Check the high speed blower relay on the firewall under the hood. If you don't have any info about the location I'll post a pic. It sounds like the relay is stuck on.

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Location of the Auxiliary fan switch


The auxillary fan is used for AC cooling purposes, and your vehicle under normal circumstances should not overheat regardless of the status of the auxillary fan.

That being said, the auxillary fan is controlled by the PCM based on AC switch position via a fan control relay in your fuse box under the hood. There is no fan switch for it, as it is turned on based on PCM observance of AC control switch position.



Some things to look at regarding your overheat condition:

When the vehicle begins overheating, what are the conditions of the radiator hoses? Are both firm, or only one and the other soft? Are both hot, or is one hot and the other only warm?

Both a failed waterpump and a failed shut thermostat will show a hot hose on one side and only a warm hose on the other side of the radiator.

A failed (stuck shut) thermostat will also result in one very firm hose (highly pressurized and nowhere to go with the thermostat shut) and one relatively soft hose.

You can take the radiator cap off (BEFORE it pressurizes) and watch the water level as the car runs. If the thermostat is opening and waterpump is pumping, you will see fluid flow once it gets to operating temperature.

Watch your engine fan and see if it is engaged or just spinning freely. When warm and the engine shut off, the fan clutch should be engaged making the fan more resistant to turn. If it spins freely, the clutch is failing.

Check the area around the radiator and between it and the condenser for obstructions to airflow.

Obviously check the condition of the coolant for heavy scale/sludge. The 3.0/3.5 engines are notorious for turning coolant into thick rusty puddy.

Hope this helps!

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