Question about Dodge Ram 1500
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2002 dodge ram 2500 diesel
I'm no expert, but I am on my second Dodge. I have a 2004 Ram 2500, 125k miles on it. I traded in my 2001 1500 with 99k on it.
Your problem sounds like one of two things that happened to me. At 110k mi's it was not accelerating properly, particularly between 40 and 50 mph. It turned out my torque converter was going bad and I ignored it for too long and it's disintegrated pieces ruined my transmission. I recommend getting over to Aamco right away or to the dealer if you are still in warranty and have the TC checked out. The diesel is just too much torque for a torque converter on the automatic transmission, but manuals are too much of a pain these days. $2300 at Aamco to have the TC replaced and the tranny rebuilt.
The new problem I have now is when it acted like it was out of fuel and then wouldn't turn over after it died. My fuel lift pump (diesels have two of everything and the expensive one is always what goes) has gone bad and is currently being replaced, $700 part, plus another few hundred in labor.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 28, 2008
those sensors could cause the issue, clean the MAF 1st, also clean the idle system using the following procedure, the IAC can cause cruise surge. I use this to cure these problems all the time.
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve (IAC) and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
Grab the bed of the truck and vigorously rock the vehicle from side to side. If you hear clunking in the axle, you probably need to check the carrier bearings in the differential. I had the carrier bearings, wheel bearings, and seals replaced in my mother-in-law's 1991 Ranger for $280, and it rides like a new truck. Well, ok, it rides like an 18 year old truck with a new rear end. I provided the wheel bearings and seals to the shop, and they provided the carrier bearing, lube, and labor. While the axles are out, check the surface where the axles ride on the bearings. If they are worn, there are undersized bearing available, but it is usually cheaper and easier to just by new axles.
Posted on Feb 12, 2009
If it's doesn't sound like it's your engine which i am thinking not. Check to see if there any heat shield that may have come lose, like the heat shield to the spark plug wire or heat sheild along the down pipe.
Good luck and hope this was the rattling your taking about as it heats up it expands and tighten's up.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
Idle is rough because not a right Air/ Gas mixture.
The ideal air /gas ratio is 14.6:1. If less than that it has rich mixture. If it more then that it has a lean mixture.
Back fire happens when accelerated because of of rich mixture pumped out at exhaust cycle is burning.
At speed above 40 miles/hour, temperature and fast compression cycle make the problem is less obvious.
Cheap first shot is to replace the air filter to correct this ratio. If it doesn't help, need Fuel distributor service. ( However people like to make easy money from you first, they will convince you for a turn up) Good Luck. I'll check back to see how the progress going.
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
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