Coolant leak - 1981 Ford F-150 straight 6cyl., no AC
Upon re-filling coolant after replacing lower radiator hose, noticed drip stream from bottom of hose. Radiator replaced approx 90 days prior w/ no leakage until suspecting lower hose. Hose clamp re-tightened at engine side & dry at radiator end ..Wondering if drips are from water pump 'weep hole' & if so whether this is early indicator of impending water pump failure. Comment ?
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Re: Coolant leak - 1981 Ford F-150 straight 6cyl., no AC
You know what i would do if i were you. I would get some BARS radiator leak stop. This stuff is unbelievable for the price. I bought an older grand am for a work beater, had a bad coolant leak and i didnt feel like pulling the water pump and jacket because it woulda cost me more for the jacket and gaskets then i bought the car for. Put a bottle of leak stop in there for 10 bucks and it stopped and hasn't leaked sense.
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Before you go replacing a radiator, you need to check out why the quick overheat. Most likely due to low coolant which indicates a leak. Yes the core could be leaking...but it is not the most likely problem. If there is coolant dripping from the lower hose, it could be a simple matter of the lower hose clamp just needing to be tightened. They do work loose occasionally. Check the clamp, and tighten if needed. With the vehicle cold, check and refill the coolant in the both the radiator and the reservoir bottle. Run the vehicle to normal temperature and observe all connection points. IF no leaks are seen, use the vehicle normally and monitor coolant level for a week or so to ensure that you have solved the problem. If you are still loosing coolant, but have no visible signs of loss (drips or puddles under vehicle), then the problem could be a worn out water pump. They often tend to leak only when running and the lost coolant often evaporates on the engine block out of sight.
The short answer is anywhere above the shield. Look for darker (wet) trails on the front / back of the radiator (where possible) as a sign of a leak origin. Clamps between hoses and radiator openings, thermostat housings, soldered locations such as those around a filler neck, seam, etc. are also candidates for leak locations as well. Inspect the radiator cap too (when cold). Feel along the underside of hoses, support hardware, etc. that slope downward toward the radiator - as coolant may be running along the bottom side of the hose from a different leak origin location. Don't forget that the cooling system is under a small amount of pressure - so a wet spot on the radiator (or anywhere for that matter) could be the result of a stream of coolant that is squirting there - but coming from somewhere else. You could check this after running the engine to normal temperature and shutting it off - then look around for a stream squirting under the hood.
have a coolant pressure test done on the system and find the leaks. If it is an old radiator with plastic tanks then the tanks may be split (common) -check radiator hoses for splits and radiator cores for leaks. If the hose is enlarged past the clamp replace it as it is about to burst anyway check water pump and check all points where hoses are clamped onto aluminium housings as they corrode under the hoses.
Usually this is a simple fix like the upper or lower radiator hose leaking or just a loose clamp at one of these hoses. Get a bright flashlight, upon the hood and check the hoses at both ends. Make sure the engine is off. You might have to lay under the front of the car to look at the bottom hose. These hoses are the usual suspects start here. If these look ok and are not leaking look at the front of the engine where the belt is for any coolant dripping. If so this could be the waterpump leaking. If u plan on doing this job yourself I think u should watch a video on utube on how to do it. Good luck
The easiest way is to usually just remove the lower radiator hose. All of the coolant will come out in a couple of minutes so you will need to have a big bucket. Around 3-4 gallons will come out. It sounds like the shop used too much water in the coolant mix. It is supposed to be 50/50 or better(better being more than 50% straight coolant) and water. If you drain what they put in there and refill with straight coolant ( not the premix from the store but rather the non-mixed stuff) you probably wont even have to go back to the mechanic. Your coolant sounds like it is boiling which can be very bad for the engine. Once you remove the lower radiator hose, just reconnect it and fill it back up. It will be the largest hose going into the radiator at the bottom of the radiator. There may be a bleed screw on the top of the thermostat housing. If so open it with the car running till coolant bleeds out in a steady stream then close it and your done.
Your auto is definitely loosing coolant and will overheat. Check your thermostat, hoses, belts, radiator cap and water pump. If you do not fix the leak or coolant circulation problem you can destroy your engine. The smell inside can be being picked up from the outside vent or it could be your heater core inside the ventillation area leaking (which could be your coolant leak).. If that is the case you will need to replace the heater core.
It's likely the lower coolant hose - the greenish yellow fluid is coolant. When you bottomed out, you either separated or tore the lower coolant hose, or you cracked the radiator. Either way, you need to fix it before you continue driving the car.
Drain the radiator, Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, Disconnect the trans. cooler lines. These are "hard" lines connected to the radiator approx. 5/16 lines. Remove the mounting bolts of the shroud (if equipped) Remove the mounting bolts for the radiator and lift straight up. Installation is the reverse. Be sure to fill your radiator with a 50/50 mix of coolant to water. Start and run van and check for leaks.