Question about 2005 Toyota Corolla

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I installed a new clutch and now I cannot change gears when the motor is running. I replaced the slave cylinder, master cylinder, pressure plate, throw out bearing and clutch housing. 1995 Toyota Corolla

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If you have bled the system properly,the only answer is you have fitted the friction plate on backwards.....(the word front,printed,on the metal centre goes toward you/facing you.)check to see if you have full travel on the actuating lever when pedal is fully depressed....

Posted on Jun 04, 2010

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Hi i just put a new master cylinder a month back now today my clutch felt hard and when i put it in reverse heard a broken sound clutch went flat and oil came from the master what can the problem be


Umm...

A mechanical 'breaking noise' doesn't sound good. It's hard to diagnose a problem online without being there to see/hear the vehicle. But .. it may be that your clutch pressure plate has broken/ release/throwout bearing has broken?

It's difficult to see why the master cylinder should leak - unless it was incorrectly fitted in the first place?

Just to check ... The master cylinder is in the engine bay/compartment and is where you top up with clutch fluid. When a master cylinder fails it usually results in no pressure at the clutch pedal, not a leak.

The clutch slave cylinder is the one that does all the work. When you press the pedal hydraulic pressure is sent from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder - which then pushes the release/throwout bearing against the clutch pressure plate and 'disconnects' the driven plate .. allowing you to change gear.

The slave cylinder is the one that does all the hard work - it is located somewhere where engine and gearbox mate together, usually at the bottom right/left. It's usually the one that fails/leaks. It's quite easy to replace..

I don't think it is anything to do with reverse gear. It's more to do with the clutch pedal being depressed - and, I would suspect - something has failed.

The link below is generic images of a clutch:
clutch diagram Google Search

Basically, a clutch is 3 parts. There's the 'pressure plate' which bolts onto your flywheel. The pressure plate is a 'spring'. You depress the clutch pedal and the release/throwout bearing presses onto the centre of the pressure plate causing the 'fingers' - the springs - to bend back and take pressure off the driven plate - which is the link - the drive - between engine and gearbox.

If you have a leak your clutch will not work. This causes a 'grinding/crashing' noise when you try to change gear. The first thing you should do is check where the leak is coming from and do something about it.

The 'noise' that you mention may be due to the fact that the gears are 'grinding' as they try to mesh together without the use of the clutch.

The first thing you should do is check why there's a leak. It's difficult to see why a new master cylinder is leaking unless it was incorrectly fitted and damaged (pipes incorrectly connected..).

If it's the slave cylinder that is leaking - replace it. Easy job.

If Master cylinder and slave cylinder are ok - you have to look at your clutch unit. A clutch is always replaced with 3 parts ... throwout bearing/pressure plate and driven disk.

May 04, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

I just replaced clutch on 1993 Honda accord ex and the release cylinder isn't pushing the release bearing enough to shift when car is running


I really need more info such as...Mileage,did you do the job yourself,if so was the slave cylinder and or clutch master cylinder changed and did you bleed the system..?...So I will explain without knowing,,...Before a clutch wears completely out we find ourselves constantly working the clutch pedal stressing all clutch system components..In most cases I have looked closely and found slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder leaking ..however the slave cylinder can wear out without leaking..Most importantly the fluid itself wears out every 15 to 20,000 miles.. You don't notice but the fluid gets thousands of tiny air bubbles in it and makes the clutch weak and spongy..(Same with brakes)..You should always bleed system with an assistant just as you would a brake system..,This alone will cause the problem you are experiencing...If you already know that and you have bled the clutch system then you know the slave cylinder is at fault..(UNLESS THERE WAS SOME TYPE OF MISALIGNMENT WITH RELEASE BEARING....YOU SHOULD ALWAYS CHANGE RELEASE BEARING WITH FORK WHEN DOING A CLUTCH SERVICE..)...I assume you did...I would inspect for leaks..,Bleed it again if no leaks...If that don't help and no leaks are found change slave cylinder and or master cylinder.....I hope this helps........Brooks/Metalpoet.......

Jun 13, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2000 mazda 323 with a manual transmission. i have already change the clutch kit but the gear is still hard to shift


Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.

Dec 09, 2013 | Mazda 323 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Own a 1988 Ford F250 Custom. A few days ago I noticed that when the truck was put into gear, even on 1st, it took a bit for any power to kick in. Just the other night it just quit changing gears entirely....


i take it that in your statement " it took a bit for the power to kick in" you were referring to the clutch slipping or not engaging correctly
pressing the pedal and not going anywhere indicates a compensating port in the clutch master cylinder to be blocked
the best and cheapest fix here is a new master cylinder and slave cylinder as both are near their service life end
replace the hydraulics first as it is the cheapest fix first and then if it turns out to be the pressure plate , you will need new hydraulics to handle the increase pressure of the new pressure plate
all of your statement tend to master cylinder problems

Apr 25, 2017 | 1988 Ford F 250

1 Answer

2006 chevrolet cobalt clutch issues


check clutch installment procedure could be the problem how it was installed.

Nov 21, 2012 | 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt

2 Answers

My clutch seems to have gone out tonight. The clutch is very easy to push to the floor...and it pops back....there's no pressure at all. The clutch fluid is leaking from the hose. Could this be the...


it could be either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder,it could also be the clutch pressure plate check the master & slave cylinders first because if it's the pressure plate the gear box will have to be removed to replace the pressure plate, even if you are uncertain it is most likely cheaper to replace the master & slave cylinders than it would be to replace the pressure plate.....hope this helps......cheers.

Aug 31, 2011 | Saturn Vue Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1990 magna gearbox putnew cluch presureplate throwout bearing new master@slave cylender gear change good untill i start motor then no gears can start in gear drive@change soon as car stops sticks in gear...


Well, it sounds like the clutch cylinder / clutch linkage is not properly adjusted or the clutch cylinder is not fully bled, or it is malfunctioning -- it's not fully depressing the pressure plate when the pedal is pushed down, therefore, the clutch is still engaged.

Charlie

Mar 18, 2011 | Mitsubishi Passenger Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

2001 Ford ranger edge. The gears won't change.


The trans will need to come out. While your at it, just replace the clutch assembly, rear main oil seal, resurface the flywheel, and the clutch master cyl. Its not really a job you should do, find a repair shop to handle it.

Nov 06, 2009 | Ford Edge Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

HI, I RECENTLY BOUGHT A 1990 NISSAN 300ZX NON TURBO 5SPD. I GOT THE ENGINE RUNNING BUT WHEN I PUT IT IN GEAR THE CAR DOES NOT MOVE. THE TRANS FEELS LIKE IT IS IN GEAR AND DOES NOT MAKE ANY STRANGE NOISE....


being 1991, and a sport car, good idea to go ahead and replace slave cylinder since you have them and very easy to replace. If you able to push your car while is in any gear more likely the clutch pad pressure plate are worned and slipping. If you can push the car while is in gear even the engine is not running than it will be your clutch pad and your presure plate is shot that would mean you tranny has to come out. once you in the tranny you might as well replace with new clucth pad, pressure plate and throw out bearing. Also check your fly wheel make sure is not ate up. if it is then you will have to have the flyweel resurface by a machine shop. using the lift is the best way to work on the Z. most garage will charge 400-500 to do the work.

Sep 08, 2009 | 1991 Nissan 300ZX

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