Question about 2000 Mazda MPV

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When I refill the coolant I get very little heat. Is there an air lock issue and if so how to resolve it ? ? 1989 Mazda MPV 3.0L V6

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Yes you are probably right! The easy way to deal with this is to leave the coolant pressure cap off after adding coolant and let the engine warm up until the coolant has expanded to it's full temperature volume. Coolant typically expands over 30% of its original volume as it reaches normal engine operating temp and this massive rate of expansion is often very convenient for flushing out air bubbles from the system. Also poke around under the hood and look for a bleed screw on the thermostat housing or near the highest point in the cooling system. you can crack that open when adding coolant but seriously don't do any of this when the engine is hot or even warm. Work on it cold then bleed the air out then try cranking it with the pressure cap off and letting the engine warm up. As soon as the engine is warm and whatever coolant has overflowed is no longer going to burn you then replace the cap. You can replace the cap while the engine is still hot though just don't burn yourself on any overflowing coolant. f none of this helps then use prestone radiator flush as reccomended and do so while the heater is turnded to it's hottest temp setting. That will flush the heater core of rust and particles that have restricted the flow of water through it during the off season when it sat without getting any use.

Posted on Jun 04, 2010

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  • hifi457 Jun 04, 2010

    I did leave the pressure cap off and ran it out town a few miles, no joy. There is an extremely steep alley nearby so I parked pointing up, ran the engine for a while, turned around and ran the engine pointing down; no joy. Like 30 degrees down . . .steep.
    Drained the rad twice and the coolant was DARK brown (Bar's Leaks) the first time and lighter brown the second and it --looks-- like it might have oil in it.
    I'll dig for a relief screw, where can I get a manual, the info will surely be in it ? ?
    Thank you. Bill

  • Anonymous Jun 05, 2010

    Sounds like you have a lot of dissolved solids in the cooling system. I bet you're right, BUT NOW WHAT? Look, you have to flush the cooling system regardless of what the debris in your coolant is. Flushing is easy and it feels great, too. ching. Seriously. Flush your engine like I already told you. You can buy a flush kit to install in your car's heater hose permanently. Made by prestone for under $5.00 (unless you live in the city in which case it will cost around$17-$20 because everyone in the city has to pay more for necessities and yet they pay less for frivolous things like I-phones and handbags. Weird, huh? But I digress. Hope you are enjoying this. Get a kit from any auto parts store. By the way, that was top-notch segway-ing just then from one relevant subject right into an irrelevant subject. It was very visual, wasn't it... OK, no kidding you have a clog (for whatever reason) could be bars leak, could be rust, could be Jerry Lewis's long lost stash of "flubber" we'll nail that down later but first we want to see if flushing the system produces any noticeable improvement. If so then that may solve the problem or help you determine whether more intesive cleaniings are necessary. If problem gets better then keep repeating the process until the desired reult is achieved. If a second flush does not yield improvent then it's time to haul it over to a full time mechanic and pay him for a teardown and diagnostic session which is usually one hour labor at shop labor rate. At that point you'll have paid your one hour labor and they will tell you what the cause is.You can use their experience to pinpoint a problem get some free advice then go home and repair it. On my cars, I flush the cooling system with the thermostat removed for as long a time a I can without eating any holes through the coolant passages with the acidity of the flush chemicals. then I drain it all out, and flush the engine block raditaor and heater core with the engine running and water going all over the place. Here's why water sprays out of the flush kit when using it. Garden hose is usually @ 60psi. TOO MUCH!

    your cooling system only likes to hold less than 20 (or in mathematical expression you could write it like this: <20psi coolant="good thing" (>20psi in cooling sytem=bad thing/stuff breaks+blown gasket,head * wtf = bad day. So you can clearly understand by reviewing this equation and applying the principles which support my conjecture we can understand that we should first try to CLEAN the cooling system. Next we test the heater. If it's a LITTLE better then we repeat BUT if after we repeat the flush (oh wow, I'm repeating myself) we still only see slight additional improvent or no improvement THEN we get out the coveralls cause some **** is about to get seriously dismantled. I would then pull the inline heater control solenoid valve and test it or even run the car without it to see it heater got hot. Just remove it from the heater hose and put a piece of metal pipe in place of it. Not all cars use this but do start with the small stuff. If that isn't the problem it I pull the heater core and cylinder heads and radiator. Have the cylinder head remachined to ensure it's mating surfaces are not warped. It's just a good idea to have certain components reworked ANY TIME they are removed because an ounce of prevention now will not get your girlfriends attention but it will keep her from calling you in the middle of the night on her way home from the club or whatever and guess what she'll say when she calls you? "I was driving YOUR CAR and now it's broken! Can you come get me?" Which turns into her asking you the very next day if she can drive your nice new truck for a while and give you a ride to and/or from work because according to her, she wants you to have a chance to get YOUR car fixed which of course is now entirely your problem AND the center of your universe in getting YOUR life back. So you lovingly agree to let her accomodate your need to have time to work on your car while drives YOUR other vehicle and so graciously re-assures you that WE will get this fixed and she will make sure you can count on her to give you a ride (avoid questions about where you're going and why). Let's suffice it to say that thanks to being a great guy and loaning you girl your car then giving up your life while you fix it AND she drives your beloved second car, your trophy you will want to commit a murder/suicide over her making complaints that seem so ungrateful for all this because you don't understand how hard it is for her to bear the inconvenience of getting up 2 hours earlier each day she has to take you to work which means she has no time for other things she swears she really needs to do each day and what could be worse, but she is sooo tired too because you work until 6 and she's used to getting home from her job around a quarter after 4. "And how could you complain at me for using up all your resources when Even though I ferry you to and from work I also have to get stuck in a 1 hour traffic jam each daybecause you work 30 miles from home in the downtown area and get off AFTER rush hour traffic is already a cluste?" She'll certainly demand. So here'se your girl telling how all her "help" should be regarded with the utmost appreciation. That you need to remember that you are the one who has the broken car you now want to drive off a bridge with her dead body in the trunk ;) That even though you work a ten hour shift each day with a 30 minute commute to work and a 1 hour and 30 minute commute home from work because of rush hour traffic and she now has all your **** including your balls, She is tired and needs to be appreciated and treated better by you. Guess what? You will go through all of this because you hope, wish, think (pick one) that it will make her love you more and see what a great man you are for helping her life be better because you will make any sacrifice for her, yep, you'll do it. We all do. This is not fiction, man! This is about NEVER, EVER, EVER, LETTING THIS HAPPEN TO YOU NO MATTER HOW MUCH YOU HAVE TO WORK ON YOUR CAR!!! jUST THINKING ABOUT IT MAKES ME WANT TO GO REBUILD MY WHOLE RIDE RIGHT THIS MINUTE! As a man we have our daily driver and then we have our sweet wheels we won't even let anybod touch. Want to stay a man? Don't ever let yourself fall into that aweful situation of having to give up your sweet wheels to your girl because it felt good to be the big shot and say,"Honey just drive my Honda for a while till we get something dependable for you (since you have no remorse for tearing up your only vehicle and feel no shame in asking "what's oil and why do I need it in my car?". That being said, if you have goo in your motor then you need to ask all five W's andstart taking action to fix the problem. Don't waste time talking your self out of the stuff that seems hard. Stay objective. Pull the heads who cares it's probably faster than you think compared to staring under the hood thinking wow that's a lot of stuff under there. Get the heads off, take them to the local auto machine shop and have them redo them completely. Word of advice though, take a head to a "head" guy or you'll get ripped off. I don't care if Mr. jim down there at the cam grinding place says he's the master at refurbing heads. It's not his specialty and he will goof it up and overcharge you, too! Remember, it's like this when it comes to cars,'" Get your seafood at a seafood place and your steak at a steak place". Try it the other way around and you will pay the same money but hate the result. Then you have to pay more money to get what you like so you spend more and get less. Only ever take major car parts to specialists for repair. While they have you head as them to mill quite a bit. You'll get a performance boost and better mileage. Sweet. Ask them to go at least .100 thousandths of an inch off the deck of the head. Of course you could just skip that right? I mean it's a lot of work and we don't really want to do it except well, we have crappy heat and an engine coolin sytem full of goo we can't identify but stop right there. I've noticed the naturall progression in most cases is to cut corners and do this elaborate "looky see" routing where we've tried all this different stuf but still can't fix it. Well ask yourself this one question, ****," Do I really want to get that late night "car is broken down, come get me" phone call or do I want to get out my tools and take off this complicated heavy thing from my car?" The answer is simple. Big heavy thingy on engine hard to work on but guaranteed will be finish under4 hours. Cwazy soon-to-be ex-girlfried drive my car and then take my other car when first one break down on her. She have no remorse for borrowing mine car after blow-up her own motor. She honestry seem to berieve her car blow up engine not her fault. She say to everyone'" My car is dying I need new one soon". I say car not "magically "die! Must have OIL in motor. No such thing as die when come to car. Only neglect cause car to break velly bad. No go fix car, Grasshopper. You have the begginings of much skill to come.You know little but ask many velly good qwestion. No is time to remove heater core if cooling system flush no work. Replace core or flush with more powerful solvents such as muriatic acid diluted %50 with water. If possible go to local radiator shop with heater core AND radiator and have them seriously cleaned from inside on with acid dip bath. Your training is complete, hidden monkey. You must seek expewience. Until training combine with experience to equal power you must use HEART. You have HEART. USE IT!

    Hope you found this entertaining, informative, mentoring, empowering

  • Anonymous Jun 22, 2010

    No rating? So I did all this for you for nothing? Is that right? Did someone else give a better answer?



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0996b43f80203328.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Component Location Chart-2000 MPV

1 PCM 2 Mass air flow (MAF)/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor 3 Throttle position (TP) sensor 4 Fuel tank pressure sensor 5 Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor 6 Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor 7 Camshaft position (CMP) sensor 8 Knock sensor 9 Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) (front, LH) 10 Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) (front, RH) 11 Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) (rear, LH) 12 Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) (rear, RH) 13 EGR boost sensor 14 Power steering pressure (PSP) switch 15 Main relay

0996b43f8020330c.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Component Location Chart-2001 MPV

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