Question about 1993 Honda Accord

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My 93 Accord 4-Dr. LX 4 cyl. began sputtering at about 35-40 the other day on the freeway, and the MIL light came on. I jumpered the test harness and got a code 43, which, according to one maint. manual excerpt I read could either mean a problem with the fuel system or the O2 sensor harness. I checked the white wire and green/white wire from the ECU out to the last O2 harness connector for opens or shorts; no problems there. I checked my injector resistor unit and the individual injector resistances; all within limits. A little background which may or may not be relevant; a few weeks ago, it died on me in traffic, and, after restarting it, I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from dying, while braking with the emergency brake to get it home. At that time, I got a Code 13, which an online mechanic told me was the baro sensor in the ECU. I subbed an ECU from the junkyard, which eliminated the problem, but since then (about 75 miles later) I've developed this new problem described above. After the first start of the day, it high idles fine, but since the sputtering and the Code 43 happened the other day, it sometimes bogs down suddenly and tries to quit after the engine warms up. The idle fluctuates between normal (750) and about 550, and sometimes quits altogether. This evening, when it started doing that, I unplugged the IAC for the heck of it, and reconnected it before it died completely. The result of this was that the idle speed suddenly increased to normal for awhile, and then it started bogging down again a little. I'm laid off and trying to get through school, so I'd like to keep the Ol' Red October (which has 230K miles on it) going as long as possible. It's had a coolant leak from the block this past year, which I slowed down pretty well with Blue Devil. Could this be a dragging accessory ? An intermittent fuel pump or relay ? A bad O2 sensor (again)? The fuel filter has been changed fairly recently, and the relay operated normally at that time. The spark plug bosses are stripped and barely hanging in there; they've not been checked in a year (or four); I'm afraid to touch 'em until last resort. Any ideas what to shotgun next ?

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Well, code 43 is Fuel Supply or O2 code.

Which O2 sensor have you replaced? Does the car have any oil leaks? Does the car drive abnormal? hesitate, buck, etc.
I have seen where the engine is leaking oil. That oil makes its way into the connector for the front O2 sensor. Since the O2 is located in the pipe at the rear of the motor, slightly under the oil filter. When the oil gets into the connector it causes the readings to become out of whack and the PCM sets a code for it. Do you replace the engine harness. Once the oil gets inside you can never get it out.

You can always try to make a piece of harness and bypass the section that goes down under the intake to the sensor. Essentially taking the oil soaked part of the harness out of the picture. If the problem is gone than you know for sure its the harness. The connector by the O2 is connector C105. There is another spot by the right strut tower where connector C210 is. that connector houses the same wires as C105. You can try to back the pins out of C210 and run new wires down to the O2 ans see what happens.
My 93 Accord 4-Dr. LX - 4938032.jpg
Hope helps.

Posted on Jun 04, 2010

  • danpm45 Jun 04, 2010

    No, the harness is not oil soaked. And the O2 sensor on my model is below the exhaust manifold, in the exhaust pipe just before it turns downward and aft; I'm not aware of there being another one, although I know that some models have one aft of the cat converter. And yes, it did 'buck' a little, and had very slow accerleration when this happened on the freeway the other day, which is what I meant by 'sputtering'. Do you think an O2 sensor could cause this erratic idle I've described ? I mean, I've changed it before, so that's no big deal, just a hundred bucks. When I checked it today, the A-B pins (heating element) had no continuity, but I wasn't sure if I needed to spend a hundred bucks on it for that. When it was idling and warmed up, I momentarily disconnected and reconnected the O2 harness just above the sensor, and it seemed to have no bearing on the discrepancy. I've also wondered if a little bit of coolant contamination from internal head gasket leakage could cause it to go erratic, so I might replace it after all, just as a reasonably good shotgun step. Alongside that, what would there be in the fuel system for me to check next ?

    May I suggest that you go back and carefully reread my initial question ? I know a lot of people ramble incoherently, and it's easy to dismiss a big long spiel like that, but I'm pretty good at conveying exactly what's happening. I don't mean to be snarky, just trying to point out clues. Thanks.



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