Question about 1995 Chevrolet C3500

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1995 chevy 3500HD. on the leftside of the oil pan,forward end is a tube that has a step up hose thats leaks. my parts house has no clue on what it is or does. i need a new one.any part #s you can find?

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Any Chevy Dealer can help you out with this for it is a dealer item only

Posted on Jun 04, 2010

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2 Answers

Where is the drain plug located on a 1995 chevy beretta 3.1 liter?


Radiator is on the drivers side in front of the radiator(White). Oil pan is on the back side of the pan in the middle. Not one for the transmission.

Nov 29, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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1992 cadillac deville leaking oil at dipstick


I would look for other leaks. If you are sure it's leaking at the dipstick tube, there is normally an o-ring where the tube presses into the engine. In general, this is an odd place for a leak, as ther eshould be no oil pressure in the pan (where the tube terminates) and unless the engine is overfilled with oil, the tube end shouldn't be immersed in oil to leak. IF there is pressure in the oil pan, that generally indicates bad rings. I have seen engines where the oil dipstick actually pops out of the tube under pressure when the engine is running due to pressure in the oil pan from blow-by at the rings.

Jan 05, 2014 | 1992 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

Oil pan repl. 1995 ford ranger 3 liter automatic


Oil Pan, Ranger SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036
Removal
  1. Disconnect battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 14-01.
  1. Remove air cleaner outlet tube assembly by unclipping air cleaner clamp, loosening hose clamp at outlet tube, disconnecting intake air temperature (IAT) sensor and mass air flow (MAF) sensor connectors, and crankcase ventilation hose.
  1. Remove oil level indicator fan shroud retaining bolts. Position shroud over fan blade.
  1. Remove radiator support bolts. Raise and secure radiator to front core support.
  1. Remove engine mount nuts from studs.
  1. Unclip 42-pin connector from bracket and position it aside.
  1. Install suitable lifting brackets to left and right exhaust manifolds. Attach Rotunda Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036 (or equivalent) to lifting brackets. With a suitable lifting device raise engine approximately 50.8 mm (2 in). Install wood blocks between engine mounts and support brackets. Remove lifting device.
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 00-02.
  1. Drain the oil.
  1. Remove transmission insulator retaining nuts and install a jack stand to extension housing. Raise transmission about 25.4-101.6mm (1-4 in) to gain access for removal of oil pan.
  1. Remove transmission inspection cover.
  1. Remove starter motor splash shield.
  1. Remove starter motor retaining bolts and secure starter aside.
  1. If equipped, disconnect and remove low oil level sensor.
  1. NOTE: Oil pan fits tightly between transmission spacer plate and oil pump pickup tube. Use care when removing pan to avoid damaging either part.
    Remove oil pan bolts and lower pan.
  1. Remove oil pump retaining bolts. Lower and twist pump to allow the oil pan to lower completely. Remove the pump and pan assembly from vehicle.
  1. Remove and discard oil pan gasket.
  1. Clean the oil pan mating surface.
Installation
  1. NOTE: When using silicone rubber sealer, assembly should occur within 15 minutes after sealer application. After this time, the sealer may start to set up, and its sealing effectiveness could be reduced.
    Apply a 4.0-6.0 mm (1/5 inch) bead of Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-AA or -BA (or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESB-M4G92-A and ESE-M4G195-A) to junction of rear main bearing cap and cylinder block and to junction of front cover assembly and cylinder block. Position oil pan gasket to cylinder block and secure it with Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-19B508-B (or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M11P17-A and ESE-M2G52-A).
  1. Install oil pump assembly and bolt. Tighten bolt to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
  1. NOTE: If oil pan is replaced with a new pan you must tighten new pan to spec then loosen and retighten.
    Position oil pan to cylinder block and install oil pan to engine bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (7-10 lb-ft).
  1. Remove jack stand and install transmission insulator retaining nuts. Tighten nuts to 85-118 Nm (63-87 lb-ft).
  1. NOTE: When replacing low oil level sensor, use a new metal gasket with a rubber O-ring.
    Install low oil level sensor. Tighten sensor to 20-34 Nm (15-25 lb-ft).
  1. Install transmission inspection cover and retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (7-10 lb-ft).
  1. Install starter motor and bolts. Tighten bolts to 22-28 Nm (17-20 lb-ft).
  1. Securely install starter motor splash shield.
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. Install lifting device and support engine. Remove wood blocks and lower engine back into original position. Remove lifting device and Rotunda Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036 (or equivalent). Remove lifting brackets from right and left exhaust manifolds.
  1. Remove support straps, lower radiator into position, and install radiator bolts to core support. Position fan shroud and install the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 6-8 Nm (52-71 lb-in).
  1. Install engine mount nuts and tighten to 98-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
  1. Connect 42-pin connector to the bracket and install oil level indicator.
  1. Install engine air cleaner outlet tube assembly. Connect IAT sensor, MAF sensor, and crankcase ventilation hose. Securely tighten the hose clamp.
  1. NOTE: When battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms can occur while powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. Vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn strategy.
    Connect battery ground cable.
  1. Fill crankcase with correct viscosity and amount of engine oil.
  1. Start engine and check for oil leaks.

    Oil Pan Installation - Ranger


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    Hope this helps

Aug 14, 2011 | 1995 Ford Ranger Supercab

2 Answers

Leaking oil on right side of motor.


The crankshaft oils seals are known to leak after approx 100,000 miles. The Harmonic Balancer (fan belt pulley) end of the engine will have lots of oil and road grit around the oil pan, air conditioning compressor, power steering pump and other area in the engine bay due to wind spread. This seal can be replace without removing the engine. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt and use a pulley puller. If the seal mating surface is grooved replace the balancer too or the new seal will fail soon.

The transmission "bell housing" will weep oil and or trans fluid if the rear crankshaft seal or the transmission seal develops a leak. This seal is much larger than the front seal so it lasts longer and need replacing less often. The transmission will need to be removed from the car to reach these seals.

The oil pan is sealed with silicone engine sealant and will dry out and leak also. Sometimes the leak looks like it is the front or rear seal (pulley or transmission end of engine) but it may be the oil pan leaking and dripping into the pressure plate inspection plate or the pulley. The oil pan can be removed and resealed without removing the engine or transmission but it is a little tricky. Dropping the engine's under brace and exhaust pipe is recommended. Additional engine/transmission support is needed to do that.

While you are under the car look near the oil filter. Above and forward (toward the fan belt is forward) and see if there is oil dripping from the oil pressure sending unit wire. It will leak into the electrical connector. Squeeze it and see if oil seeps out. If so replace the sending unit. It looks kind of like a spark plug screwed into the block.

Near the oil filter you will see the power steering pump mounted to the side of the pulley end of the engine and it is over the right CV drive axle and has several hoses connected. One larger hose is a none pressure hose that gravity feeds the pump from the fluid reservoir mounted above it on the passenger side wheel well in the engine bay. This hose eventually leaks and drips power steering fluid everywhere! It is a molded hose from the dealer parts dept. and relatively easy to replace. Messy but do-able.



Now the top side of the engine. The valve cover has a rubber gasket that shrinks over time in that hot engine bay. Take a Phillips head screw driver is see how loose the screws holding it are. Really loose hu? You can tighten them but you should replace it because it shrunk and that makes the screws loose.

You will need some silicone engine sealant each side of the distributor bridge at the driver's side of the cover. Get a manual to make sure you tighten those screws in the correct order.



Distributor "O"ring seal can leak. Two 12MM bolts to remove it and put a new "O"ring on and you are set. Mark the Distributor's position to the bridge bracket BEFORE you loosen those screws. Line it back up to the marks so you don't mess up the timing and reset the timing after is even better.

Jun 26, 2011 | 1996 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

Need to replace oil pan on a bmw 2004 330ci


Raise engine with special tool 00 0 200 approx. 5 mm.
- Remove suction filter housing. Remove engine splash guard.
- Drain engine oil. On vehicles with automatic transmission:
- Disconnect oil lines from automatic transmission and from oil pan.
- Release guide tube for dipstick.

Note: M52TU and M54 only.
- Detach return hose from cyclone oil separator on oil dipstick guide tube.
- Replace O-ring.
- Remove front end reinforcement.
- Detach steeling spindle from steering gear.
- Remove vane pump for power steering unit (lines remain connected).
- Disconnect plug connection to oil level sensor.
- Loosen top and unfasten bottom of left and right engine mounts.

E46 4WD only
- Remove left and right swivel bearings.
- Remove output shafts. Remove front propeller shaft.
- Remove front axle differential.
- Detach brackets for left and right control arms from engine carrier.
- Release retaining brackets for left and right stabilizer bars.
- Unfasten screw connection on front axle support and lower the front axle support.

Note: There is no need to detach the steering gear from the front axle support.

- Unfasten oil sump screws at transmission and engine ends.
- Lower and remove oil sump.
Sealing faces clean and free of seal debris.
Apply approx.3 mm wide, 2 mm high coat of Drei Bond 1209 sealing agent to the area around seams.

Installation:
  1. Replace gasket
  2. Install oil sump.
  3. Insert all oil sump screws.
  4. Insert screws in transmission end without preload at this stage.
  5. Tighten down screws in engine end.
  6. Tighten down screws in transmission end.

E60 Removing And Installing, Sealing Or Replacing Oil Sump (M54)

Necessary preliminary tasks. -
- Remove intake filter housing
- Remove guide tube for oil dipstick
- Lowering front axle support
- Drain off engine oil
- Disconnect plug connection to oil level sensor.

On vehicles with automatic transmission:
- Detach oil lines from automatic transmission and from oil pan.
- Unfasten oil pan screws at transmission and engine ends.
- Lower and remove oil pan.

Installation:
Sealing faces clean and free of seal debris.
Apply approx.3 mm wide, 2 mm high coat of Drei Bond 1209 sealing agen to the area around seams.

Installation:

  1. Replace seal.
  2. Install oil sump.
  3. Insert all screws on transmission end, without preload at this stage.
  1. Tighten down screws on engine end.
  2. Tighten screws on transmission end.

Or take it to a dealer....

Apr 19, 2011 | BMW 330 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have 1995 toyota camry with 2.2 liter engine.I installed a new oil pan gasket,and valve cover gasket,cause there was alot of oil leaking from that area.All the work was done about two months ago.there...


I have the same car and the same problem. I can see the oil shooting out at the (upside down) rear, right side of the oil pan. This side of the oil pan is covered by a piece of plastic foam. There are no bolts on this side of the pan. Toyota recommends grey Formagaskit to seal the pan. The natural flow for this leak is all over the bell housing. The piece of plastic foam is attached to bell housing inspection cover. Good Luck!!!

Feb 13, 2010 | 1995 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Leak From Coolant Hose On 1995 Chevy Lumina 3.1


Chevy heater lines usually leak after about 100,000 miles,its a seal with a plastic insert in the end of the line where it connects to the intake manifold

Aug 17, 2009 | 1993 Chevrolet Lumina APV

1 Answer

1995 jeep yj 5 speed AX-5


Where are you seeing the oil leaking from? Remember that gravity will cause the oil to drop down. The wind will also cause the oil to blow back while you drive. Look for the forward most and top most areas that are covered with oil. Common leak areas are the front oil seal (oil will look like it's coming from the bell-housing. Another common leak is the shifter plate gasket, just below the shift lever. Oil will be found draining from this area. I have also seen shoddy mechanics use the wrong bolts to hold the rear housing onto the main housing of the transmission. If the bolts used are to short, oil will leak between the main housing and the tail-shaft housing. Charlie

Jun 14, 2009 | 1995 Jeep Wrangler

3 Answers

Replacing oil pump on 93 Toyota Camry (5SFE) wagon


Dave the only item in the oil pan that has to do with the oil pump is the pick up screen and tube. The 5FSE IS A 2.2 four cylinder. The oil pump is driven off the timing belt. All you have to do is remove the front covers and replace the oil pump. You can get a Haynes repair manual and it will give you step by step instructions. Engine does not have to be removed. I don't think fischmilch has ever worked on this style engine. Most important item to make sure you do is replace the timing belt and water pump. Good Luck

Mar 09, 2009 | 1995 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Water leaking behind oil pan on a 95 chevy camaro-3.4L


If I rember correctly, there are two freeze plugs in the back of the block, behind the flywheel. They generally dont go bad often because they are pretty much protected. As that angelo guy said, more likely a hose or rear of intake gasket, but you have to look, from here I can't see it!!!

Dec 30, 2008 | 1995 Chevrolet Camaro

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