Question about 2001 Chevrolet Blazer
Stuck or backwards thermostat, the spring should face the engine. If
its a serpentine belt system, the belt may not be routed correctly
around the water pump causing it to spin the wrong direction. Blown head
gasket, or cracked head. If none of the above is the problem, try
adding a engine treatment at next oil change. Most
advanced friction reducer availible.
Haynes Manual suggests if the water pump has been replaced with a serpentine belt and a reverse rotating water pump it might have been replaced with an earlier, normal rotating water pump instead of the reverse rotating type. It also suggests the radiator cap not maintaining normal pressure, fan not functioning properly, radiator core blocked or radiator grill dirty and restricted, drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly.
Also, here I post the comment and solution from other Blazer's user...
Problem: when I turn off the motor after driving for a while and wait a few minutes (i.e. go into a store.) when I come back and start it up it is always between 210-240deg. Is this normal?
I am running a Jet 180º thermostat , green antifreeze with a bottle of Redline water wetter , TransPro "extra capacity" radiator, LS1 electric fans, cowl induction hood and a CS144 High Output Alternator.
The first change was to add the larger radiator. Around here in record heat , once the system was hot no amount of airflow would cool it back down. That was greatly improved after the addition of the new radiator.
Next step was to get a head start on cooling and not run quite so close to the edge. That is where a lower temperature thermostat comes in. I did have to relocate the IAT sensor in order to make the combination work. The 2001 PCM is just too tight to get away with it. That information is all in another thread - Relocating IAT.
Now to match the cooling fan to the lowered operating temperatures. I was unable to find a clutch fan in other than the stock temperature. The stock fan really does a pretty good job, but locks in way to late. I opted to go with electric fans. In order to maximize the fans operation a bigger alternator is needed. The stock alternator is already working pretty hard. The addition of the electric fans is not what it needs. As heat builds the voltage drops and so does fan speed. Adding a bigger alternator helps in several ways. You maintain voltage to keep fan speed maximized, and it runs cooler since it is not having to work as hard.
There may have been some other mods that are contributing to the package. Such as a free flowing exhaust system. Modified front license plate mount area (cut out for flip down plate mount). Cowl induction hood lets the heat out at slow speeds and draws cool air at higher speeds. 2" body lift makes some room for the air to move out over the engine and transmission. Auxiliary transmission cooler helps to dissipate some of the heat to the airflow rather than the coolant. New radiator cap that doesn't allow air into the system. Restricted EGR system doesn't introduce as much hot gasses to the intake.
Some of these "small differences" may or may not affect the outcome. Lots of small changes can make a difference though.
My package seems to be working pretty well in a high desert environment.
About this, HERE can find other comments and recomendations.
Posted on Jun 03, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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