Question about 1992 Buick Park Avenue

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I have a 1982 Mitsubishi Lancer SL 1982. Just had top overhaul because of white smoke problems. But after top overhaul ,now it has low power and hesitation when accelerating. Spark plugs, distributor all has been replaced. Exhaust headers okay with no leak. Timing was done 3 times by different mechanics. The car billowed white smoke when going uphill . What else could be wrong? Could it be the Carb? Or the radiator? These are the only 2 components not yet checked.

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If still billowing smoke [[burning coolant ]] the coolant being burnt with the fuel will knock horsepower to over 1/2 --have work that was done rechecked and tested since its still blowing white smoke wasnt fixed correctly --fuel +air + spark for combustion and power not coolant / water added

Posted on Jun 12, 2017

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Cracked cylinder head could cause that as could a leaking head gasket.

Posted on Jun 12, 2017


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Hesitation during aceleration

You may have a vaccume leak

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

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SOURCE: why does my car loose power going uphill


Posted on Oct 06, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks alot for ur response i hope thats the problem and nothing bigger"

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SOURCE: ok i recently changed spark

Did you mean coil the 1994 3.1 did not use a distributor , sounds like a bad coil pack and cylinders #3 and #6 do use the same coil. I would also check 3 and 6 plug wires this system is a waste spark design meaning when # 3 coil fires it is supposed to go through #3 plug wire , through #3 plug ( ground) through the engine block through the #6 plug then through the #6 wire then back to the coil, Then when #6 fires it works the opposite way, so in theory you could have one bad wire affecting 2 cylinders .....

Posted on Dec 20, 2010

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SOURCE: Engine on my 93 Buick LeSabre surges and cuts out


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The steps I'm going to outline are the same as we use in my shop for hesitation, sag and stumble.

All of the tools required can be borrowed from AutoZone at NO COST!


The sensors can be checked with an OBD-II code scanner borrowed from AutoZone. Pay special attention to an TP (Throttle Position) warnings. The sensor can be manually checked for binding or sticking.
Check the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) found near the firewall and screwed into the exhaust manifold for signs of corrosion on the threads. That will cause a faulty ground.

Fuel System:

  • Check the fuel pressure with that fuel pressure gauge from AutoZone. You reading should be 40-45 PSI and holding steady.
  • Contaminated fuel is a constant problem and if the pressure does not hold steady, replace the fuel filter.

Additional Checks:

  • Make certain that the engine thermostat is functioning and is the correct temperature.
  • Make certain that the alternator voltage output is not less than 9 volts nor more than 17 volts.

Here's a little general information that will assist you in comprehending the readouts from the code scanner. This is simply for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

  • Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
  • Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
  • Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

If Your Engine Cranks but Does Not Start Follow this Troubleshooting Guide (This doesn't necessarily pertain to you but it's useful to know)

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

  • Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
  • Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.

The reason you should repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometimes false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

Unfortunately, space does not permit me to guide you through the remedy for every code. However, the Wells Company offers extensive code diagnosis application information and technical support via its Tech Line at 1-800-558-9770, as well as in-depth product and repair videos at (use my personal access code carrepair) and through the "Wellstech" channel at


Posted on Jun 18, 2011

  • 27 Answers

SOURCE: Hesitation on acceleration

Most common problem is a failed mass airflow sensor. Remove sensor and carefully inspect the sensor for debris building up on the diode. Another possibility is the egr valve may be partially stuck open. The upper intake manifold is made of plastic. The egr gases enter the intake just behind the throttle body inside the plastic intake. It is pretty common for the hot exhaust gases to burn through the plastic and possibly cause coolant to enter combustion chambers. A restricted catalytic convertor from previous engine misfires will accelerate this due to exhaust gases having no place to escape.

Posted on Mar 25, 2012

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Related Questions:


Loss in engine power, sluggish responses, low top speed, etc.

If your car has
  1. Poor fuel responses
  2. Lost its "power"
  3. Low RPM
  4. Lower top speed
  5. Burns a lot of fuel
Then it could be because of carbon build-ups in your engine's combustion chamber. This is left behind with unburned fuel. It causes poor acceleration, a loss in power, lower top speed, and burns more fuel than it really has too. Not to mention causes smoke belching.

The best way to get rid of that would be to have a carbon ridding solution injected into the combustion chamber. The solution will liquify the carbon and other build-ups, which would then restore the "power" of your car. You'll get better acceleration, higher rpm and top speed, save fuel, etc. have a mechanic do it for you. It's alot cheaper and faster than having the engine overhauled (overhaul could trigger "loose compression").

on Aug 08, 2008 | 1995 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

2014 Mitsubishi lancer smokes

smoking is usually caused by leaking oil past the rings or down the valve stems if it is BLUEish white smoke is normally when antifreeze is being burnt and head gaskets are suspect then

Jul 01, 2016 | Mitsubishi Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2006 Mitsubishi Lancer, gauge fuse keeps blowing. Have replaced the fuse twice, first time it was fine for a week but now it blows after a few minutes of driving...anysuggestionso

I would normally say to replace with a higher amp fuse, from a 15 to a 20. But it's possible you have a short somewhere in your system, grounding a power wire. A higher amp fuse could cause that grounded wire to overheat and burn making smoke. First thing to do is to check the ground wire(white)where connected to the firewall under dash and make sure they are clean and tight, for a good connection. The power may be backfeeding and causing the fuse to pop because of a week ground.

Dec 01, 2014 | 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer

1 Answer

Mitsubishi lancer white smoke

The most common cause of white smoke is the engine burning coolant. Could be a coolant leak, or a leaking head gasket.

Jul 15, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hi.. i have a 1993 mits lancer with a 4G15 engine(EFI),. my problem is iam always adding oil to the engine, it emits white smoke in my tailpipe, my sparkplug is always wet with oil, and recently oil is...

Your engine has an issue, on the cylinder with the wet spark plug, that is resulting in motor oil getting into the combustion chamber. The two main causes are a broken piston ring or worn valve guides/damaged valve guide seal. The former is a bigger issue as the pistons have to be removed to replace piston rings, which is a major undertaking and often reguires engine removal. The valve issue is significantly easier, which can be cured by what is called a "top overhaul". However, even a top overhaul is beyond the scope of a casual DIY pundit.

Nov 11, 2017 | Mitsubishi Lancer Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have 95 Eclipse that to smoke alot now doesn't but now RPM just keeps going up transmission doesnt shift its stuck except for as soon as you take off it jerks alittle bit one time thats it is it shifting...

sounds like a linkage problem, low fluid, or you have been trying to hot rod in it a lil too much and burnt out the rest of the gears. one of the big killers of that in an automatic is trying to drive it like a stick. if you floor it and you yellow/red line it then shift (or even if it does it on its own) it will burn out the discs which would mean either a major overhaul on your transmission or replacement which would cause power loss

(replacement would be easier i don't hear of too many people that are all gung ho about tearing apart a transmisson as its not easy or fun).

Also with the smoking what color was the smoke? white blue or black?

if it was black you were burning too much fuel (could have been a MAF sensor problem Throttle position sensor problem or oxygen sensor problem.).

if it was blue you were burning oil which could be worn piston rings and that would cause some power loss but 9 times out of 10 it would still be smoking

if it was white you were burning coolant which would mean Headgasket and power loss but would probably still be smoking (unless you have been running it without coolant which in that case it would overheat and you would have to put R.I.P at the top of your windshied and wait for it to die its only a matter of a short time and temp before it does some serious damage).

My grand prix was like that (without the smoking) and i answered based on my "Driving like an idiot which i shouldn't have been doing" experience

-A Motor and a Transmission no matter what it's in is still designed to do the same job

Oct 28, 2009 | 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse

1 Answer

Steering Wheel Mechanism & Sound System

Take your car for a wheel alignment for the steering problem and for the sound system you can still upgrade it if it is a factory one.

Nov 02, 2008 | 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer

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