Question about 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Brakes bind after a few miles when cooled they are ok for miles,when they bind it could be n/s or o/side even rear but never at the same time, We replaced calipers,pads, discs any ideas

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Flush out your brake fluid, moister will expand and cause your brake's to bind.

Posted on Jun 02, 2010

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What could be the problem? I replace my master cylinder now my brakes drag after driving it a few miles

A few things to check, Is the brake fluid returning to the master cylinder at rest ?, To test jack up one wheel, is it hard to turn, if so slacken off the bleeder screw fluid should be expelled, did the wheel free up, if so the fault is at the master cylinder, check the rod from the pedal to the master cylinder has free play, if not adjust it, if ok there is a fault with the master cylinder buckets swollen or return port blocked. If no fluid was expelled and the wheel is still binding check for frozen wheel cylinder pistons.

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Rear wheels lock up at times,dont do it with heavy load. checked brakes,seems ok. pulled rear axels out drivers side splines worn,all bearing seems ok

look in rear diff. worn gear is binding up. not going to last long. fix now before it blows the whole carrier and everything.also A worn U joint in driveshaft could cause this

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2006 Ford F250 Super Duty King Ranch Diesel four wheel drive automatic, intermitent front brake drivers side binds and drags, caliper gets too hot to touch. OK after it cools off, 10 to 20 minutes. ...

About the only thing left is to replace the caliper. I've seen a few times, but not common. Piston gets bound on corrosion in caliper and doesn't retract completely.

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05 Linc. Towncar Sig. Used. Back brakes totally rusted; dealer replaced; drove 45 miles; left rear brake so hot couldn't put hand on hubcap. Right rear not even warm to touch. Going back to Dealer again...

Incorrect reassambly or binding caliper.
The caliper piston would bind due to rust and in such a case will need to be replaced. This is not easy to spot unless you diassemble the caliper itself which is why the mechanic may have missd it.
The parking brake may have been incorrectly reassembled (it uses shoes on the inside of the rotor) or may have been incorrectly adjusted causing it to be in permanent contact with the rotor, causing friction and excess heat.
Avoid unnescasarily driving the car while like this as the excess heat could cause further damage to the wheel bearing seals.

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Rear brakes dont grab enough! non ABS and brakes will not lock up, either with peddle or e brake!

A few possibilities exist: Your rear brakes may be binding (rusted pistons)
but usually that will affect one side more than the other. More common reason is that the master cylinder is bypassing or air has gotten into the rear half of the system. (usually the pedal won't feel "right" if either happens. If the pedal feels normal I'd look at the porportioning valve. If that fails, it will not permit pressure to reach the rear brakes.
As for the e-brake, they are really not designed to lock up but depend on vehicle weight and motion to cause them to hold. In the past they were used as a "fail safe" in the brake system. presently they are more used as a "hill hold" to keep pressure off the transmission and shift linkage when the vehicle is parked on a hill.
First make sure nothing in the brake assembly is binding and preventing full engagement, and that there is no air in the system or a master cyl problem, then check the valve.

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Ford transit 190, ok when starting but drive for

if it has rubber flexi brake hoses on the back there is a good chance the hose/s are collapsing inside which mean its pushing fliud through when braking but not releasing it

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Sporadically, the rear brakes on my 1998 Chevrolet Silverado 4WD truck will lock up with the slightest pedal pressure. Today the problem repeated itself and was accompanied by a loud electronic sound. My...

if you have abs the electic noise you hear is most likely coming from the abs modulator. as for the rear brakes intermittently locking up, the most common problem is overadjusted rear brake shoes, under adjusted rear brake shoes, or excessive brake dust inside the drums.

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I have a 2008 Honda LXP purchased Novemebr 2008. It has 21000 miles on the clock. From and since 15,000 miles I heard a grinding sound when I applied the brakes after the car was stationary for over 10...

from my experience its sounds like ur front rotors may need resurfaceing...if ur doing that...may as well replace the brakes on the front as well...sometimes glazed front brake pads may make a sound but never heard of it as a grind, usually its a squeal...have ur dealer check ur rotors for hot spots in which u would need them replaced if they are overheated..also check the front pads for cracked brake pad material

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Passenger brake (only) locks up when cold or wet

most brake shoes have to pass saftey reg, so they should be ok have you bled your brakes ,it may help

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Peugeot 806 s reg front brakes binding

Flush the brake fluid at the calipers for the whole system. Keep adding new fluid into the master to be sure to flush it all and check to make sure you're using the same DOT spec (3 or 4). Water expands when it gets hot, possibly keeping positive brake pressure at non-braking. Brake fluid absorbs water and the only place to get water is at the seals in the calipers.
Bad flex hoses would be an all-the-time problem, not just at higher temperatures.

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