Question about Chevrolet Aveo

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2004 chevy aveo, timing belt walked after tensioner seized and idler pulley broke into pieces. bent all 16 valves - sent head to machine shop, replaced valves, timing belt, tensioner, and pulley, now car starts intermittently and runs kinda of poorly. My guys keep pointing towards a possible injector pulse problem, but I think the timing is somehow off, I hate the waterpump being the mechansism to manipulate the tensioner, and I have the proper tool to adjust the waterpump.

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  • pjreardon Jun 02, 2010

    I AM THE SHOP OWNER WHO CAN'T GET THIS CAR RUNNING CORRECTLY, THE CAR RAN FINE COMING INTO MY SHOP, NOW IT STARTS EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE, WILL RUN AS LONG AS WE DON'T SHUT IT OFF, BUT THEN AFTER SHUT-OFF IT WON'T START AGAIN. I HAVE TO STICK WITH A TIMING ISSUE BECAUSE WE DID NOTHING ELSE BUT REMOVE THE HEAD AND CHANGE THE VALVES. PROBLEM IS WITH THIS INTERFERENCE MOTOR, THERE'S ONLY ONE WAY TO SET THAT TIMING, AND IT EITHER RUNS, OR THE VALVES GET SMASHED AGAIN. BUT STILL I WONDER IF THE TENSION ITSELF NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED BETTER USING THE WATERPUMP TOOL WHICH I OWN

  • pjreardon Jun 02, 2010

    the car came to my shop, we test drove it and determined it needed a wheel bearing, we fixed the bearing and took it for another test drive, at that point the timing belt issue occurred, doesn't **** to be me. this car does not have a security issue, and it was not towed to my shop, and there is no gizmo mounted under dash from a dealer in case of non-payment, good news is the wheel bearing works fine

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 5,495 Answers

Hello, See you had some big problems with your car. You need a really good scanner for this. I know Autozone and Oreillys will scan your car for free. You may pick up a little help there. Before you go, check your intake manifold with a spray water bottle around the seams of the intake and any vacuum fitting. Do this with the engine running.

With your intermittent starts, the flying belt may have damaged a crankhaft or cam sensor. When you rebuilt your motor you had to disconnect some of these parts. The injector pulse problem would seem unrelated to a broken pulley. If the engine ran good before it blew up, the fuel pressure, injectors , and so forth are the same as before.

The TPS, throttle position sensor regulates spark and fuel. Its a cheap part to try. After that, I think you need a Dealership to reprogram your onboard computer. Their computers can electrically read and time the engine.

Most handheld scanners can only read info, not change anything. I hope you did not have any damage to the pistons as they hit the valves. You may want to do a compression check if the electronics do not help.

Posted on Jun 02, 2010

  • fordexpert Jun 03, 2010

    Thanks for the additional info. Since the car does not want to start after the motor runs awhile and heats up, how about a heat sensitive part?



    Would you have any wiring diagrams to show thermal switches? Couldn't tell if this is a "no crank" or "crank and no start" problem after its hot. If "no crank" could starter be dying from "heat sink"?

    Is there an Ignition Relay which could fail with heat and higher compression? A cracked Coil hit by flying debris?



    The normal things like O2 sensors and EGR valving should Code and really won't affect the timing. Have you done another compression check or looked at the plugs for signs of water from a cracked cylinder? This is an interesting problem and would like to know final outcome.



    I too live under a Gypsy curse, Good Luck.

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 1,851 Answers

There is a simple way to check the timing - once it's running just keep your timing check tool nearby and check it then. If it is in their shop it is sticky but - your insurance would pay for a tow to another shop to be checked only and then most likely pay for it to be returned to the original shop.
I am thinking with you because had it been the injector for any reason it would have shown up long ago.
I am 90% sure you're right but the place it is now is beginning to stink as their not standing behinds their work. You can run a check and get it to throw a code ASAP if it doesn't throw a code then something is up. Also just do a visual for ALL the MAF connectors and also the plug wires you can get to that might short out or their respective one to one [ from coil 1 to plug 1 ] is out of order.
I think this is for sure a timing problem and the shop may be covering their mistake. I would **** it up and move my truck to a shop someone recommends.

Posted on Jun 02, 2010

  • pjreardon Jun 02, 2010

    I AM THE SHOP OWNER WHO HAS THE CAR AND CAN'T SEEM TO FIX IT. ASSUMING WE DID EVERYTHING CORRECT, AND ALL IS HOOKED UP PROPERLY, LET'S ISOLATE THE TIMING, DO YOU HAVE ANY INFORMATION THAT COULD HELP. THE CAR SIMPLY WON'T START, THEN MIRACUOUSLY IT STARTS AND WILL RUN FOREVER, BUT WHEN SHUT OFF, IT WON'T START AGAIN.

  • Gary Rice
    Gary Rice Jun 02, 2010

    OK got it. If it isn't throwing a code it is either a loose wire or the on board security system. ALSO some finance companies have remote shut off for some [ not as rare as some think] used cars with high risk borrowers.
    This is as you know the worst kind of problems but the most satisfying to hunt down.
    as a mechanic I would first off - take down the vin and call two local dealers and ask them about RECALLS concerning this [ there are millions of an repaired recalls ] and also check on any Service Bulletins. I would represent as the owner and not a shop. Let me know if you get anything this way from the factory. Also ask the owner if they are the original owners and in the end if nothing ask about the finance company. I once towed a company vehicle their insurance company shut down because the truck was not where it was supposed to be on their grid - and they didn't know the company sent it out of town.


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