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Vw t5 transporter,fitting new outer cv rubber gaiter,problem removing cv joint

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: vw transporter t5 04 van t30 2.5

I have had exactly the same thing happen to me. In the end it was a faulty water pump which was allowing water into the engine.

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: vw transporter t5 04 van t30 2.5

I had the same problem with my T5 130. My mechanic replaced the head gasket to no avail,then we checked the oil filter,that was ok.then we went on to a web forum and found out that the AXD engine suffers from water pump failure.We took it off and it was corroded,the seal had failed and was pumping water into the block.My advice,CHECK WATER PUMP FIRST! Good luck Marc,Somerset.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: removing a drive axle from

if you already have the ball joint dissconnect and the axle out of the steering knuckle just pry out the axle at the transaxle assembly. if it doesnt wont to come out try pushing it in and pry it out vary qiuck pull on the pry bar but they are only held in place with a colasable c-clip just giver.it will come dont worry it wont break

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

cadman000
  • 607 Answers

SOURCE: cv boot clamp came off somehow from the outer hub assembly

athere is a snap ring within the CV joint the nedds to be spread OPEN to release CV joint from axle, Once CV is cleaned and repacked with grease rintall onto axle by again spreading apart clamp. Prior to installing CV joint slide NEW CV joint boot onto axle, Cleanly intall add'l grrease and reinstall CV boot.

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

  • 47 Answers

SOURCE: audi a4 2.8 1995 model

  1. Remove the hubcap or center cap.
  2. Loosen but do not remove the hex collar bolt.
  3. Loosen but do not remove the wheel lug bolts.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Loosen all, and remove all but one of the CV joint to stub axle bolts retaining the halfshaft to the transaxle flange. If necessary have an assistant hold the tire, or remove the tire, install two of the lug bolts and have an assistant hold a suitable and sturdy 3 foot (1 meter) prytool between the lug bolts to prevent the axle from spinning.
  6. If not previously removed, remove the front wheels.
  7. Remove the remaining CV joint to stub axle bolt and remove the halfshaft from the transaxle drive flange and support it out of the way. Do NOT let it hang unsupported.
  8. Remove the outer axle hex collar bolt and press the halfshaft out of the hub. A suitable press tool may be necessary, otherwise drive the axle out using a suitable drift.
  9. Remove the ABS wheel speed sensor cable from the brake caliper bracket.
  10. Slide the ABS speed sensor partly out of its mount.
  11. Remove upper control arm pinch bolt and nut, then remove both arms up and out of the steering knuckle.


WARNING The slots in the steering knuckle must not be widened. Do NOT loosen any other steering knuckle fasteners, otherwise the axle geometry must be checked.
  1. Tilt the steering knuckle out and to the rear of the vehicle, then remove the halfshaft. If necessary, use a press tool to remove the axle from the hub.



0900c152800c2fa3.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. A threaded plastic guide dowel is included in the vehicle's tool kit. Thread it into place to guide the wheel on the ground
Fig. Apply a light coating of an anti-seizing compound to the lug bolts


Fig. The screwdriver handle supplied in the vehicle's tool kit is used to start the lug bolts
Fig. Always loosen or tighten the axle nut or bolt with the vehicle on the ground
  1. Install the halfshaft into the wheel hub.
  2. Install the upper control arms into the steering knuckle and tighten to:
  3. Upper steering knuckle pinch bolt: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  4. Install the wheel and hold it to keep the axle from turning. If necessary have an assistant hold the tire, or with the wheel removed, install two of the lug bolts and have an assistant hold a suitable and sturdy 3 foot (1 meter) prytool between the lug bolts to prevent the axle from spinning.
  5. Attach the inner halfshaft-to-transaxle flange and tighten to:

Inner CV joint-to-transaxle flange:


M8 fasteners: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) M10 fasteners: 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)
  1. install the ABS wheel speed sensor, and the sensor cable into the caliper bracket.
  2. If not previously installed, install the wheel without the wheel trim and do not fully tighten the lug bolts.
  3. With the wheels installed and the vehicle on the ground, tighten the lug bolts in a crisscross pattern and then the axle bolt as follows:
  4. Wheel lug bolts: 89 ft. lbs. (120 Nm)

Posted on Jul 09, 2009

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1 Answer

.I have removed the end of drive shaft out of the hub[rhs] ,other end of shaft is still attached.will the cv joint come off the end of the shaft so i can fit the new boot?


Which vehicle are you working on?

Some of these CV-joints are designed with an outside circlip. An example of such a setup would be on an Opel/Vauxhall. On cars like these with an outside circlip it is possible, after cleaning the grease to actually see the circlip and with a good quality circlip pliers, it is possible to expand the circlip sufficiently to remove the outer CV- joint with a sharp tap while keeping circlip expanded all whilst the CV- joint is still attached to the vehicle on the inner side.

On other designed CV- joints the circlip sits on the inside of the CV joint. In other words you cannot see the circlip at all. If it is such a design then the compete CV- joint unfortunately has to be removed.

Why it has to be removed if it an inside designed circlip?

Well in most cases it requires a rather sharp tap of a rubberized hammer on the outer CV to remove it from the drive shaft. This is not possible whilst the CV-joint is attached as damage to inner CV flange is very likely.

Apr 22, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to split the outer cv joint to replace the rubber boot


lose the central nut of your wheel first,remove the brake caliber loose two bolts holding your suspension arm in one peace and the lower arm bolt and loose the steering arm ball joint pull the hub up and the shaft out is one peace ,loose rubber boot clean housing and look in side you have sir clip with two holes one on etch site remove it with sir clip players grease the joint fit the new boot good luck.

Sep 09, 2012 | 2004 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

Cv joints


Hi Thomas, I have not changed CV's on your type of vehicle, but can give you the path to follow. Here we go; Always work with someone to assist you. pepare four plastic bags for use later. With both front wheels on the ground remove any wheel covers fitted. In the center of the wheel you will see the shafts of the CV's. These are held in position with large nuts, either locked with a tab or sometimes with a locking washer and split pin. Unlock whichever system is used and loosen the nuts on the shafts. Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the vehicle and place chassis stands to support the vehicle and the lower it onto the stands. Remove the wheels and remove the center nuts from the CV joints. If the vehicle is fitted with McPherson struts, loosen the two through bolts and nuts, or if fitted with wishbone suspension loosen and remove the bolts securing the the upper ball joints. Swing the stub axle outward and downwards so that there is enough room to remove the CV shafts from from the hubs. Put on a pair of goggles and then climb under the vehicle and release the boots or retaining bolts holding the shaft into the spyder or inner CV joint. Once removed pull the half shaft out of the housings keeping everything as clean as possible and wrap in a plastic bag.. (There will be high impact grease inside both the inner and outer joints, This may have been thrown out in the event that the rubber boots are broken) If you are replacing the entire half shafts, carefully observe the way in which the inner joint is fitted. If there are no bolts, studs or nuts holding a flange onto the gear box differential housing, the inner joints will be held in place by spring loaded clips fitted around the ends of the inner shafts. If your vehicle uses that type of fitting the shafts will be levered out. It will be important to use a catchment tray to collect any transmission oil which leaks out. Cover the joint with one of the plastic bags. If you are fitting only the outer CV's, the defective units are knocked off the shafts with a heavy copper mallet (The shafts also have locking cur clips holding the shafts in place. Sometimes the inner basket of the CV bearing housing will need to be cut or broken out, so the the joint can be removed. Please both you and your friend use safety goggles during this procedure. Once removed, fit the new joint. If you are replacing the entire assembly and if they are the type using clips, use a thick piece of wood and hold the shaft as straight as possible then ask your pal to knock the shaft into the housing. The rest of the job is the opposite to removal. When fitting the outer CV shaft nut follow the correct tightening torque setting, as these usually hold the front wheel bearings at the correct settings and tightness. Regards John

Feb 14, 2012 | 2006 Chrysler Pacifica

1 Answer

I've got a 1999 2500 Chevy Silverado , that I need to change a cv boot on , can u assist me.?


CV-Joints
Overhaul
These vehicles use several different types of joints. Engine size, transaxle
type, whether the joint is an inboard or outboard joint, even which side of the
vehicle is being serviced could make a difference in joint type. Be sure to
properly identify the joint before attempting joint or boot replacement. Look
for identification numbers at the large end of the boots and/or on the end of
the metal retainer bands.

The 3 types of joints used are the Birfield Joint, (B.J.), the Tripod Joint
(T.J.) and the Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.).

NOTE: Do not disassemble a Birfield joint. Service with a new joint or
clean and repack using a new boot kit.

The distance between the large and small boot bands is important and should
be checked prior to and after boot service. This is so the boot will not be
installed either too loose or too tight, which could cause early wear and
cracking, allowing the grease to get out and water and dirt in, leading to early
joint failure.

NOTE: The driveshaft joints use special grease; do not add any grease
other than that supplied with the kit.

Double Offset Joint
To Remove:

NOTE: The Double Offset Joint (D.O.J.) is bigger than other joints
and, in these applications, is normally used as an inboard joint.


  1. Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
  2. Side cutter pliers can be used to cut the metal retaining bands. Remove the
    boot from the joint outer race.
  3. Locate and remove the large circlip at the base of the joint. Remove the
    outer race (the body of the joint).
  4. Remove the small snap ring and take off the inner race, cage and balls as an
    assembly. Clean the inner race, cage and balls without disassembling.
  5. If the boot is to be reused, wipe the grease from the splines and wrap the
    splines in vinyl tape before sliding the boot from the shaft.
  6. Remove the inner (D.O.J.) boot from the shaft. If the outer (B.J.) boot is
    to be replaced, remove the boot retainer rings and slide the boot down and off
    of the shaft at this time.

To Install:

NOTE: Be sure to tape the shaft splines before installing the boots.
Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease supplied
in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half being
used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot.


  1. Install the cage onto the halfshaft so the small diameter side of the cage
    is installed first. With a brass drift pin, tap lightly and evenly around the
    inner race to install the race until it comes into contact with the rib of the
    shaft. Apply the specified grease to the inner race and cage and fit them
    together. Insert the balls into the cage.
  2. Install the outer race (the body of the joint) after filling with the
    specified grease. The outer race should be filled with this grease.
  3. Tighten the boot bands securely. Make sure the distance between the boot
    bands is correct.
  4. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle.

Except Double Offset Joint
To Remove:


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the halfshaft.
  2. Use side cutter pliers to remove the metal retaining bands from the boot(s)
    that will be removed. Slide the boot from the T.J. case.
  3. Remove the snap ring and the tripod joint spider assembly from the
    halfshaft. Do not disassemble the spider and use care in handling.
  4. If the boot is be reused, wrap vinyl tape around the spline part of the
    shaft so the boot(s) will not be damaged when removed. Remove the dynamic
    damper, if used, and the boots from the shaft.

To Install:


  1. Double check that the correct replacement parts are being installed. Wrap
    vinyl tape around the splines to protect the boot and install the boots and
    damper, if used, in the correct order.
  2. Install the joint spider assembly to the shaft and install the snap ring.
  3. Fill the inside of the boot with the specified grease. Often the grease
    supplied in the replacement parts kit is meant to be divided in half, with half
    being used to lubricate the joint and half being used inside the boot. Keep
    grease off the rubber part of the dynamic damper (if used).
  4. Secure the boot bands with the halfshaft in a horizontal position. Make sure
    distance between boot bands is correct.
  5. Install the halfshaft to the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery
    cable.






Check the CV-boot for wear
tccs7030.jpg








Removing the outer band from the CV-boot
tccs7031.jpg








Removing the inner band from the CV-boot
tccs7032.jpg








Removing the CV-boot from the joint housing
tccs7033.jpg








Clean the CV-joint housing prior to removing boot
tccs7034.jpg








Removing the CV-joint housing assembly
tccs7035.jpg








Removing the CV-joint
tccs7036.jpg








Inspecting the CV-joint housing
tccs7037.jpg








Removing the CV-joint outer snap ring
tccs7038.jpg








Checking the CV-joint snap ring for wear
tccs7039.jpg








CV-joint snap ring (typical)
tccs7040.jpg








Removing the CV-joint assembly
tccs7041.jpg








Removing the CV-joint inner snap ring
tccs7042.jpg








Installing the CV-joint assembly (typical)
tccs7043.jpg




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Oct 07, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

1 Answer

I used a Haynes VW Golf manual to renew a front suspension coil spring on my 2003 Seat Leon but found removal of the strut almost impossible with the lower arm in position.I have now managed to damage the...


Disconnect the front sway bar linkage from the control arm. Disconnect the steering ball joint and lower control arm ball joint then and only then you will have elbow room work around once you have removed the axle nut from the CV joint. Sorry no short cut for this procedure, some even disconnect the control arm from the car to persuade the removal.

May 04, 2010 | 2003 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

How to replace CV joint


jack up vehicle, remove wheel, remove split pin from hub nut, remove nut, remove lower ball joint nut & separate ball joint, lever lower arm down, pull hub forward while pushing cv joint in wards through hub, remove cv gaiter clips and slide back on shaft, hold shaft firmly and knock cv joint off with hammer, pack new joint with grease, and place on shaft with nut on threads carefully knock on with hammer, re-fit parts in reverse order

Apr 24, 2010 | 1999 Hyundai Accent

1 Answer

Having trouble removing the outer cv gaiter on audi a4 can't get cv drive to come off !


wel if you have removed the joint out of the hub take the bolt you removed screw it back into the joint all the way until it stops make it hard. take heavy hammer and hit the bottom edge of the joint will take good force to knock the joint past the cir clip that holds it in place. then u should be ok. any question return on this thread

Sep 12, 2009 | 2001 Audi A4

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