Question about 2003 Oldsmobile Alero
I've never added freon to a car, is this an easy thing to do or is it best to have it serviced?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are 2 fuel lines connecting to the fuel injector rail. The larger line is the pressure line and the smaller line is the return line. The smaller line attaches to the fuel pressure regulator. You will notice that the regulator also has a vacuum line attached to it. If you are planning on changing it your self, let me know. There is a specific way to change it for safety reasons.
Let me know.
Posted on Mar 10, 2009
your fuel pump is in the gas tank. you have to drop your gas tank. at a shop it sould 2 to3 hr to chang it. depands on how much gas is in it
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
SOURCE: ADDING FREON
Yes, it is sealed, but that doesn't mean it is leaking, otherwise why do you need to 'service' it every year? Small amounts escape under normal operating conditions until one day it doesn't cool so well. That said, you need to know what you are doing when handling freon and have some competency with the procedures. This can be learned, and there are lots of places to get guages nowadays. But you MUST be up to the task and it is best to have someone walk you through the first time. And of course read up on it and your guage manuals before you even think about checking your pressures. Get a real manifold guage & learn how to use it, not just those little guages that come with a can.
NOW, a '92 model Honda probably uses R-12. In that case you must convert to R-134-a or another equivalent. At least this means you must change the seals, dryer, expansion valve, etc with specific types of parts for the refrigerant you convert it to. Before you do this, I'm sure someone will pull down your old R-12 into their recycler for free. R-12 is expensive and they are not making anymore, so don't let anyone charge you for giving them a rare commodity if you even have just a little bit left in the system. Get a conversion kit, change the fittings & the seals, dryer, etc, -check with your supplier- then have it professionally vacuumed & charged. You'll still save a bunch by doing what you can & have a pro recharge it
One last thing, if it turns out you have a leak there is a probe guage you can get at Harbor Freight tools to check for leaking halogenated gases- ie Freon. Regular price is 69.99 but you can usually get a coupon or other bonus to sweeten the deal. This tool is better than the other way, which you can't do if you have R-12- no leak finder refill charge with red dye is available. The other way for 134-a is a UV dye that is added, or to light it with a special torch, but that can expose you to killer phosgene gas used in chemical warfare during WWI. Some things are better left to those with the equipment & expertise.
If you have 134-a, then invest in the guages (provided you are up to the task) and top off with a can with the UV dye, that way when you really have a leak you can find it with the special glasses & UV light it comes with.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
HI there if the scan tool you are using will not reprogram the theft module the try the 10 min relearn
Posted on May 03, 2009
Brute force - you have to pry up the tensioner pulley. The way we did it was put the belt over the alternator and A/C compressor, and get it back in place around the main bearing pulley. Then we took a bar and forced up the tensioner and slid the belt over the main bearing pulley. Voila . . .
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
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