Question about 1992 Volkswagen GTI

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I cannot get the clutch cable nipple to engage with the clutch pedal. any tips please

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Get someone to operate the clutch lever on the bell housing(long rod)while you are inside the car ,you will then have ample cable slack to play around with.....

Posted on Jun 01, 2010

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2004 ford focus 2.0liter. clutch pedaL GOES TO FLOOR. brake master full of fluid.I clutch master or clutch slave cylinder bad?


a plastic master cyl !

master cyl is bypassing internally

slave cylinder is inside the gearbox bell housing
if its leaking .....gearbox out




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Nov 11, 2016 | 2004 Ford Focus

1 Answer

98 golf clutch pedal went to the floor. Car would not engage any gear. Fixed cable so pedal now feels good but still won't engage I can move gear lever any where, release pedal but nothing happens.


What do you mean when you say you fixed the cable. It sounds like the cable broke and you replaced it. Is that correct. If so, did you adjust the free play in the clutch pedal to the manufacturers specification. If you have not done this correctly the clutch will either not disengage, or no engage properly. From your description it appears as though there is n free play and hence the clutch is staying disengaged even when you release the clutch pedal. If this is the case, then try lengthening the cable until the clutch pedal moves with say 25 mm of free movement before anything happens, and try again.

May 19, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Problems with my 51plate ford focus estate. Gears will not engage with engine on. When it's off there's no problem so I don't think it's the linkage Checked the clutch and break fluid levels which are...


manual ?? easy you have a fault with the clutch ,now it could be the hydraulics or it could be the bearing and the if you are not sure its too difficult to describe without a A4 essay so ask a local mechanic to have a look then reply to this poist when you know whats said and i will say if sounds right or not .

Mar 29, 2011 | 2001 Ford Focus

1 Answer

I need to adjust my clutch



Pre 1997/9 models of Fords were self-adjusting via the clutch-foot-pedal. The pedal engages a ratchet system called the QUADRANT & PAWL and is part of the pedal. The mechanism is very similar on older Ford models of: Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Granada, Transit & others. Newer vehicles may have a Hydraulic Clutch from 1997/9 onwards, and these work differently from the cable & pully mechanism. Clutch-fluid can be bled to improve the ability to operate the clutch, however this is not necessarily a method of adjusting the clutch.

If your reading this article because you have a broken clutch-pedal then please read on.

If when pressing the foot-pedal it feels like cable is broken, or pedal is loose, ...This is symptomatic of failure of the QUADRANT & PAWL 'ratchet' mechanism due to wear of teeth on the ratchet.

In some cases the pedal fails to pull the clutch out far enough to change gear, and may make a 'springing noise'. This is due to slippage on some worn ratchet-teeth, but the mechanism has not reached full failure.
There are 2 ways to remedy the fault.

1. Change the Quadrant & Pawl, using only genuine Ford parts. #Beware of inferior mouldings that are not up to standard e.g. too soft, and do not trust 'pattern-parts' on ebay etc.

2. SHORTEN THE CABLE.
  • Disconnect the FOOT-PEDAL-SPRING to release the slack normally taken up by the 'Quadrant & Pawl' (ratchet) which is faulty.
  • Remove end of nipple from clutch-cable (engine-end).
  • Fill slack with bolts & washers or other filler.
  • Drill hole in LARGE nut & bolt (like split pin but inverted).
  • FIT NUT & BOLT TO REMAINING PART OF CLUTCH-CABLE NIPPLE.

ONLY CUT VERY END OF CABLE-NIPPLE LEAVING AS MUCH CRIMP AS POSSIBLE, ...then clamp the nut & bolt over the crimp. This is less likely to slip or even cut cable.

Clutch-cable should be able to be re-fitted without tools or tensioning the clutch-arm. Final tension of cable should leave CLUTCH ARM & CABLE SLIGHTLY LOOSE.

NOTE : Overadjustment of clutch can cause damage. Therfore only remove a minimum of slack from the cable.

Mar 21, 2011 | 1999 Ford Escort

1 Answer

My clutch went out and i had a mechanic friend replace the part...its the part under the engine not the actual clutch but he cant get pressure back in the clutch and cant figure out if bleeding the system...


Bleeding the system is as follows. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line).

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving.

Oct 27, 2010 | 1988 Toyota Pickup

1 Answer

My clutch was wokin good and then all of a suddent there was no pressure on my clutch so i checked and it had to dot 3 fluid in it so i put sum in but it leaked it out rite away it came out on driverside...


It sounds like the rubber seal on the Clutch Slave Cylinder piston has completely failed. You will need to replace the Slave Cylinder Assembly. To replace, undo the union nut that attaches the pipe from the master cylinder and then undo the bolts that attach the assembly to the engine/transmission. Remove the push rod from the old cylinder and place in the new. Reattach Cylinder Assembly and pipe, making sure push rod engages in socket of clutch operating fork. Bleeding the system is as follows.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line). It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.

Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving. If the Slave cylinder does not have a bleed nipple the union nut that attaches the fluid pipe can be used for bleeding. However, it is a bit harder to observe when all air is purged and of course very messy as fluid will drip everywhere.

It also pays to check that the clutch pedal free travel is within specification (about ¼ inch measured at the pedal rubber) to ensure the hydraulic system works properly. This is done by adjusting the push rod that links the pedal arm to the piston in the master cylinder. Adjust by first loosening the locknut on the rod at the end where it attaches to the pedal arm and turning the rod in either direction to obtain the correct free travel. One adjusted retighten locknut.

Oct 12, 2010 | 1994 GMC Sierra

2 Answers

New performance clutch, new slave cylinder and master slave wont go in gear, and when in gear and pressing clutch vehicle wants to go


You may not have got all of the air out of the clutch line Try bleeding it again. The sequence is as follows:
1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don’t forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don’t introduce more air into the line).
2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down.
3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.
4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits securely over the bleed nipple which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles.

Aug 20, 2010 | 1995 Eagle Talon

1 Answer

Clutch pedal went to floor only comes up with help has cable


nipple broken of the end of the cable,when you replace cable connect from the clutch arm first,then pedal,so you have plenty of slack when connecting up.....

Jun 24, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I cant bleed the clutch on my renault laguna 2 52 plate it has a plastic bleeding system I have tried everything but with no success Les


You need to connect the pressure bleeder to the brake master cylinder resrvoir,then bleed the clutch through from the nipple on the slave cylinder.If the nipple is not of the unscrewable type,you need to release the pipe from it's clip where the nipple is and then this will allow the air to escape and you end up with fluid with no air bubbles in it coming out of the nipple.If the nipple is of the more normal type,you need to follow the same procedure,you just undo the nipple half a turn and this will have the same effect.

It's best to connect a piece of small pipe with a container to collect the fluid in on to the nipple as you could contaminate the clutch plate with the waste fluid,and if your using a pressure bleeder it will save you getting squirted with brake fluid when you release the nipple!.

If you have someone else that can help you,don't use the pressure bleeder and just get the person to sit in the car and work the clutch pedal up and down whilst you open and close the bleed nipple.You follow the procedure,clutch pushed down,release nipple,close nipple,clutch pedal up,clutch pedal down,release nipple,close nipple,clutch pedal up and so on a so forth until no more air comes out and you have a steady stream of fluid.

Aug 19, 2009 | Renault Sportwagon Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Clutch cable snapped on my s reg ford escort 1.6


nipple on top of pedal to release mechanism their is alan key head behind pedal just unwind it the with pedal down drop new cable nipple into the slot thingy.this model doesnt take long compared with old plastic auto adjust type .look at it and you will soon sus it out a 10 min job

Nov 15, 2008 | 1999 Ford Escort

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