Question about 1986 Chevrolet G20

1 Answer

Where is ignition curcuit link?

On a 1986 Chevy 20 Van.
I was R & R the alternator, putting in the new one and shorted something to ground. Now have NO ignition circuit. Manual says that circuit is on a fusible link.

Where is it?

Thanks

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 6,826 Answers

The fusible link comes off the starter,it is connected to the large post on the solenoid,on the starter along with the positive batter cable,if it is burned into,it will pull apart like taffy.

Posted on May 31, 2010

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Why is it my 2008 chevy uplander rear wiper motor/blade moves some and stops. I let van set 5-10 minutes with key off. Turn on key. Wiper motor/blade moves a few degrees and then stops again. Why?


Can you move the wiper by hand ? Which does your vehicle have ?
WDA/Z88 The rear wiper is controlled based on an input from the rear wiper/washer portion of the multifunction switch. When closed, the wiper ON and wiper DELAY switches provide a unique voltage signal to the rear window wiper motor indicating the desired speed. Each switch has a unique resistor that drops the voltage to a specified value which is interpreted by the rear window wiper motor as ON or DELAY. The rear wiper motor receives B+ voltage from the I/P fuse block and accessory voltage from the body control module (BCM).
W49 The rear wiper is controlled based on an input from the rear wiper/washer switch. When closed, the wiper ON switch provides a voltage signal to the rear window wiper motor indicating rear wiper operation is requested. The rear wiper motor receives B+ voltage from the I/P fuse block and accessory voltage from the body control module (BCM).
Do you know how to do electrical testing ?
WDA/Z88
  1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector X1 at the multifunction switch.
  2. Ignition ON, verify a test lamp illuminates between the ignition circuit terminal 4 and ground.
  3. ?‡'
    If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the ignition circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, refer to Power Mode Mismatch.

  4. Ignition OFF, connect the harness connector at the multifunction switch. Disconnect the harness connector at the rear window wiper motor.
  5. Test for less than 20 ohms between the ground circuit terminal B and ground.
  6. ?‡'
    If greater than the specified range, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.

  7. Ignition ON, verify a test lamp illuminates between the B+ circuit terminal A and ground.
  8. ?‡'
    If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the B+ circuit for an open/high resistance.

  9. Verify a test lamp illuminates between the ignition circuit terminal E and ground.
  10. ?‡'
    If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the ignition circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance.

  11. Rear wiper switch in the ON position, test for B+ between the signal circuit terminal D and ground.
  12. ?‡'
    If less than the specified value, test the signal circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, test or replace the multifunction switch.

  13. Rear wiper switch in the DELAY position, test for B+ between the signal circuit terminal D and ground.
  14. ?‡'
    If less than the specified value, test or replace the multifunction switch.

  15. If all circuits test normal, test or replace the rear window wiper motor.
W49
  1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the rear wiper switch.
  2. Ignition ON, verify a test lamp illuminates between the ignition circuit terminal 6 and ground.
  3. ?‡'
    If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the ignition circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, refer to Power Mode Mismatch.

  4. Ignition OFF, connect the harness connector at the rear wiper switch. Disconnect the harness connector at the rear window wiper motor.
  5. Test for less than 20 ohms between the ground circuit terminal B and ground.
  6. ?‡'
    If greater than the specified range, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.

  7. Ignition ON, verify a test lamp illuminates between the B+ circuit terminal A and ground.
  8. ?‡'
    If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the B+ circuit for an open/high resistance.

  9. Verify a test lamp illuminates between the ignition circuit terminal E and ground.
  10. ?‡'
    If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the ignition circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance.

  11. Rear wiper switch in the ON position, verify a test lamp illuminates between the signal circuit terminal D and ground.
  12. ?‡'
    If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the signal circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, test or replace the I/P switch assembly.

  13. If all circuits test normal, test or replace the rear window wiper motor.
Component Testing

Do you know how

Jun 09, 2016 | 2008 Chevrolet Chevrolet Uplander LS

1 Answer

Van turned off while driving without warning


There is a dead short somewhere linked to that fuse, problem won't be solved until you find what is shorting out that fuse. Atleast that is the first thing to figure out.

I did some digging around if you do a google search on the problem, with the van model year and 20 amp engine fuse you will find all kinds of articles.

Biggest issue I seen pop up was the wire to o2 sensor, shorting out, also that fuse may also connect to the fuel pump and and related circuit. Hopefully that helps point you in the right direction

Aug 23, 2013 | 2000 Chrysler Town & Country

2 Answers

Just put a new battery in my 1986 ford f250 but after letting it sit for about 4-5 hours the battery is dead and truck has no power. What could cause this problem? I figured it could only be the Alternator...


Check the battery. Any drain that would pull 20 amphours should spark terribly when you attach the battery cable. Fully charged battery usually 80 amphours+.

The Alternator diodes could do it, a grounded starter could do it. You have a truck, but rear window defrosters could pull down a battery quickly. Stuck Relays like the fuel pump, a bad ignition switch where nothing really cuts off when the key is removed. Shorted trailer plug.

Hope my solution helps you.

Sep 18, 2012 | 1986 Ford F 250

1 Answer

SKIPPING PROBLEM . SPARK PLUGS & WIRES HAS BEEN DONE. THERE'S NO 12 VOLTS AT THE COIL CONNECTOR PLUG WITH THE KEY ON. LYMAN


Sound like a ground problem; the fastest way to identify the Power and Ground Circuits is using a wiring diagram. If you don't have one you'll have to find out by trial and error as you probe each circuit.

The power circuit is tested with the Key On and Engine Off. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Negative Terminal and with the other end, probe the Power Circuit. Turn the Key to the Run position. If the Power Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up. Here are the possible results:
* You got 12 Volts on the Power Circuit
Good, this is a good sign. The next step is to check the Ground Circuit of the Coil on Plug connector that you're testing.

* No Power in only one Ignition Coil
Without 12 Volts, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Power the new one will not Spark.
Since the Power Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Power Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Power at any Ignition Coils
The fuse or relay that supplies this voltage is blown or BAD.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to see where this fuse and/or relay is located and replace as necessary.
After replacing the blown fuse or the defective relay. Retest the Ignition Coil.

Them, the Ground Circuit is tested with the Key On or Off. It doesn't matter because this is a Chassis Ground. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Positive Terminal and with the other end, probe the Ground Circuit. If the Ground Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up.

* You got Ground
Good, now the next step is to verify that the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil is receiving the Triggering Signal. This info belongs to the next section of this article.

* No Ground in only one Ignition Coil
Without this Ground, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Ground the new one will not Spark.
Since the Ground Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Ground Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Ground at any Ignition Coils
This usually happens thru' human error in most cases and is a very rare thing. Usually the engine was replaced and this ground was not re-attached.
You can Ground this circuit with a jumper wire. Jumpering to Ground just one Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil should provide Ground to all of them (consult your Repair Manual's Wiring Diagrams to be sure).
With this jumper wire to Ground attached, crank the vehicle.
If in fact the Ground Circuit does have an open short, this (the jumper wire to Ground) should make the vehicle start, or at least get the Ignition Coil to Spark.
Repair the open short and retest for Spark or retry starting the vehicle.


Hope this helps. Keep us updated.

Aug 19, 2011 | 2003 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

20 AMP FUSE BLOWS WHEN IGNITION IS SWITCHED ON IGNITION SWITCH TESTED AND OK


something connected too ignition sdwitch has short to ground. remove all fuses except 20amp that blows turn on ignition see if blows. if not replace one by one till it does to isolate circuit. which fuse is blowing and where is it located.

woodysmechan kiesha76@hotmail.com

Mar 10, 2011 | 1999 Suzuki Vitara

3 Answers

My car have a good battery and a good alternator but the battery just wont stay charged. its a chevy lumina 1995


u must have a short circuit somewhere that is drawing power, and draining your battery...

or you are just leaving something turm=ned on..radio?..lights?..amps?..dome lights?..

Jan 06, 2011 | 1995 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

I have a fuse blowing constantly on my van


you are on a search and destroy mission, i recommend you buy a manual with wiring diagram, at least it will tell you what is hooked on that circuit, thenits a matter of testing wiring, i suspect you have a short somewhere

May 24, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Express Cargo

3 Answers

Ignition timing specs for a 1986 Chevy 454?


Automatic I presume. 8 degrees BTDC @ warm & 700 RPM.
distributor vacuum off & plugged. In drive, & accessories off.
Don't forget parking brake on.

Jul 16, 2009 | 1986 Chevrolet Chevy

1 Answer

Battey wont charge


may have a short somewhere but check the ground cable/ connections first, there will also be a ground from the engine block to the firewall if you cant find it attach a new one (don't use thin wire or it can melt) dosen't matter where you put it just as long as it gets a good connection at the block and firewall(no painted surfaces/use sandpaper)

Jan 05, 2009 | 1986 Chevrolet K1500

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