Question about 1998 Toyota Celica

2 Answers

91 Celica convertible top stuck in down position after fiddling with the electrical system. Need help: 1. fixing the (electrical?) problem, 2. manually closing the top if no quick fix.

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  • coz May 31, 2010

    A 30A fuse was blown & replaced last night, but no improvement. The relay was swapped with another working one this morning. Again, no improvement. Now thinking of hot-wiring the pump motor in the trunk to close the top. Bad idea? What if the pump has gone bad? How do I test for that?

    How we got here:
    My son wanted to hook up a hydrogen generator to a ignition switched power source, so we used the convertible top switch; easy access. The voltage was at almost 12V before we tapped the + line. Now, the voltage at 2.6V even w the tap removed. There is 12V at the relay. All other functions (such as instrument cluster) tied to the 7.5A ignition circuit working.

    TIA

  • coz Jun 01, 2010

    Excellent guidance with troubleshooting tips. Teaches rather than just solves.

    I am glad I found fixya and my post caught this gentleman's eyes!

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  • Toyota Master
  • 22,114 Answers

First thing i would do is to check for a feed to the motor ?? then if need be run a power feed to it to close the roof .then work backwards to locate the lack of feed .could be an earth issue as well but you will need to check it out with a meter to see if earth is ok or just run another earth as a good measure then when you know earth is ok put a power cable from the battery to the motor to make sure its working ,then as stated work backwards looking for the feed so the next thing is to check for a feed from the switch which should run to a relay then on the relay you will have a permanant 12v feed to the relay and the 12v feed from the switch if you have this and the relay isnt clicking check the earth on the opposite side to the switchable feed ,the other side of the permanant 12v feed will run to the motor ,simple but be carefull because the relay will reverse the current flow to lower the hood so you will have one feed but the relay will throw another contact to reverse the feed but if you play with this with the test light you should be able to work out the wiring ,then when you have worked out the wiring you should be able to locate the fault .Now some types i have worked on use a sort of circuit on the motor to reverse it like a wiper motor self pàrk mechanism ,wher eit will go one way then when it reaches the end it will lift the contact and go the other way ,with two set of contacts one the feed and another for the earth .if you disconnet the wiring plug to the motor and use a twin flex cable from the battery + and - to the motor then if it will not close just reverse the cables and it will go the other way and close

Posted on May 31, 2010

  • 4 more comments 
  • coz May 31, 2010

    Thanks for a great reply! That was quite a thorough instruction. I am printing it out to check step by step. I will report back after testing.

  • coz May 31, 2010

    One quick question on the voltage reading.


    The control switch is a rocker switch w top, middle & bottom positions. Top opens, middle is neutral & the bottom closes. It has a blue + wire and 2 white wires. I assume one white is the open top circuit and the other close top circuit. At the beginning before any mods were done, the blue measured at close to 12V. Now, it measures at 2.6v. When the ignition is off, the blue measures 0.


    So, something happened while we were messing around. What would cause a voltage drop like that? I mean the 12v line was the relay control, not the feed to the pump, right?

  • coz Jun 01, 2010

    Tested all the connection back to the switch. Everything works. Polarity switch causes reverse motion.


    The switch is still getting only 2.5v. Took a wire from the battery's + terminal to the switch and now the switch works as well. So, we have a temporary solution.


    So, when the ignition is on, this line should be reading 12v. So, how do you backtrace it from this point on? All the wires are now in bundles under the dash.


    Since there is a voltage drop rather than zero voltage, can we conclude it's a short rather than a cut wiring?


    Thanks so much. You've been extremely helpful. My son and I are getting a real education.

  • coz Jun 01, 2010

    I hope you can still help us. I am ready to accept the solution, but don't want to lose you completely yet. Could you give us more troubleshooting tips? Can you do that even after I accept the solution? I am new at this fixya thing...

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Jun 01, 2010

    best quick fix tip here is if you have found the problem as such then just rewire it because trying to find the fault will cause more aggro than its worth ,although i must say iam intrigued by the hydrogen generator if it does what i think it does i could do with one for my sunday car the XJsovererign 4 litre because here in spain this sort of thing is banned ---paperwork--- say no more ,at about 7 dollars for petrol a gallon it would work well no doubt

  • coz Jun 01, 2010

    I agree too much troubleshooting is a waste of time. I am just worried that the voltage drop is caused by a short which may later create other problems. Other than that, I am happy with a working solution.


    I wonder why hydrogen fuel-cell is banned in Spain. Is the petrol owned by the govt?


    We bought a kit from a Canadian for about $100 US. I am pretty sure this guy puts the kits together on his kitchen table with $15 worth of off the shelf parts. Decided to do this after viewing many youtube videos. On the first day (1 week ago), my son decided to light the gas. I didn't stop him. Soon as the flame hit the gas, there was a big boom! Hydrogen burns so fast, it burned right into the production chamber & blew the cap off! Good thing the cap was held in place with a large rubber-band. I think my son will be more cautious in the future. I think I will be more strict with horse-plays. A potentially dangerous situation, but a good lesson.


    Perhaps you could put together a hobby kit to power a small engine (like lawn mowers in the US). I can send you pictures & diagrams, if you'd like.


    The real challenge is going to be in re-tuning the engine after hydrogen is introduced into the air-intake. As I understand it, we will have to ****** the timing to almost TDC because if hydrogen ignites too fast, it will have counter-thrust on the piston. Plus, the oxygen sensor will become confused and inject more gasoline than needed. So, a sensor extender is recommended. Then, we'll have to re-train the computer.


    Not sure if we'll be able to do all of this. But, the kid is learning. So, it's all worth it.

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  • Master
  • 2,427 Answers

Well I'm thinking you blew the fuse,, Its in the fuse box under the hood,, there is a diagram on the cover of the box.. Replace it..

Posted on May 31, 2010

  • coz May 31, 2010

    Hi Darklord,


    Yes, the 30A fuse was blown & replaced. The relay was swapped with another working one. No problem there. My son wanted to hook up a hydrogen generator to a ignition switched power source, so we used the convertible top switch; easy access. All other functions tied to that particular ignition circuit (a different 7.5A circuit) are working. I am thinking the control motors might be burned out, but don't yet know how to get to them and/or test them. Any thoughts? TIA.

  • Rishi Roshan Ali Jun 01, 2010

    i doubth that the motors can be burned that easily.. Check the main fuses's its close to or under the fuse box under the hood.. There are like 80 and 90 amp fuses there ,, I am sure there is another burnt fuse..

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2008 Chrysler Sebring hard top convertible goes halfway back to open then stops in the middle of the cycle.


There are many possible causes of this problem on the convertible Sebrings, the most common problems are as follows;

1) The cargo platform in the trunk is in the wrong position which blocks the rear window from folding downward. Ensure that the cargo platform is in the down position before attempting to operate the top.
2) The Hydraulic pump is low on fluid, it is located in the trunk, in the left rear corner, underneath the carpet. Inspect the fluid level in the reservoir.
3) There is an electrical fault in the system.
4) There is physical damage to one of the panel pivots, inspect for panel binding while the top is moving.

A couple questions for you;

When the top stops moving can you still hear the pump running or does it go quiet?

When the top stops moving does the cluster display "convertible top in operation" or "convertible top malfunction" or something else?

Report back with anything you find or if you need further help.

Nate

Aug 26, 2015 | 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible

1 Answer

I have 99 bmw 323i.i ran it hot and got prob fixed and now the eml and a triangle with circle around it comes on dash and car has no power.feels like it has a rev limiter.wats wrong with my car


have throttle body checked also the MDK throttle motor,
make sure that the dealer has followed service bulletin 12 07 99 for procedure to replace the MDK throttle motor
also have them check for codes,here are some codes,
it could be an expensive job,have them check everything,it is most likely the throttle motor,,throttle body is 600 if they switch it,dont let them do it without checking throttle motor,
codes,
MS41, MS42 and MS43 engine DME bmw codes...
• 1 Ignition coil Cyl 2
• 2 Ignition coil Cyl 4
• 3 Ignition coil Cyl 6
• 5 Fuel injector Cyl 2
• 6 Fuel injector Cyl 1
• 8 Air Flow Meter (HFM)
• 10 Coolant Temperature Sensor
• 11 Tank Pressure Sensor (EVAP System) or Radiator Outlet Temp (MS43)
• 12 TPS or Plausibility - Maximum Coolant Temp (MS43)
• 13 Plausibility- Radiator Outlet Temp
• 14 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
• 15 Plausibility - Cut Out Time
• 16 AirCon Compressor - PWM Signal or Plausibility Intake Air Temp (MS43)
• 17 Plausibility - Engine Coolant Temp
• 18 EWS Signal or Camshaft Sensor (MS43)
• 19 Activation VANOS Inlet Valve or Exhaust Valve (MS43)
• 20 "CHECK ENGINE" Light Failure
• 21 VANOS -Electrical Fault or Activation VANOS Inlet Valve (MS43)
• 22 Fuel Injector Cyl 3
• 23 Fuel Injector Cyl 6
• 24 Fuel Injector Cyl 4
• 25 Lambda Sensor Heater -Bank 1
• 27 Idle Control Valve - Malfunction
• 29 Ignition Coil Cyl 1
• 30 Ignition Coil Cyl 3
• 31 Ignition Coil Cyl 5
• 33 Fuel Injector Cyl 5
• 35 Aux. Air Injection System Relay
• 36 DME Main Relay
• 37 DME Main Relay : Delay
• 38 Clutch Switch -Plausibility
• 39 Brake Light Switch or Brake Light Test Switch
• 40 Brake Light Switch or Pedal Value Signal
• 42 Multi Function Steering Wheel- Plausibility
• 43 Multi Function Steering Wheel: Button
• 45 Multi Function Steering Wheel: Port
• 47 Temp Sensor -Downstream of Pre-Cat or Torque Limitation Level 1 (MS43)
• 48 DME Control Unit -Self Test 1
• 49 DME Control Unit or Torque Monitoring Level 2 (MS43)
• 50 EVAP Control Valve or Response Monitoring Level 2 (MS43)
• 51 Shut-off Valve -Charcoal Filter or Request Control Unit Reset (MS43)
• 52 Solenoid Valve -Exhaust Flap
• 53 Idle Speed Actuator
• 55 Lambda Sensor Heater -Bank 2
• 56 Ignition Current Feedback Resistor - Open Circuit
• 57 Knock sensor -Bank 1
• 58 DME Control Unit -Self Test 2
• 59 Knock Sensor -Bank 2
• 61 Lambda Sensor Heater -Bank 2 Post Cat
• 62 Aux. Air Injection System -Switching Valve
• 63 DME Control Unit or Ambient Temp Signal via CAN (MS43)
• 64 Plausibility - Ambient Temperature
• 65 Camshaft Position Sensor (Inlet MS43)
• 66 DME Control Unit
• 67 DME Control Unit
• 68 Tank Venting Valve
• 69 Fuel Pump Relay
• 70 DME Control Unit
• 71 DME Control Unit
• 72 DME Control Unit
• 74 AirCon Compressor Relay
• 75 Lambda Sensor Voltage -Bank 1
• 76 Lambda Sensor Voltage -Bank 2
• 77 Lambda Sensor Voltage -Bank 1 Post Cat
• 78 Lambda Sensor Voltage -Bank 2 Post Cat
• 79 Lambda Sensor Heater -Bank 1 Post Cat
• 80 ABS/ASC interface
• 81 MSR Signal -Active too Long
• 82 ABS/ASC Interface -Advance Adjustment
• 83 Crankshaft Sensor
• 90 Exhaust Temperature Pre Cat Conv - Bank 1
• 91 Exhaust Temperature Pre Cat Conv - Bank 2
• 92 Exhaust Temperature Post Cat Conv -Bank 1
• 93 Exhaust Temperature Post Cat Conv -Bank 2
• 94 Auxiliary Air -Air Mass Flow Sensor
• 95 Auxiliary Air Valve or Auxiliary Air Hose Blocked
• 96 Auxiliary Air Pump - Function
• 97 Auxiliary Air -Flow Rate too Low
• 98 Auxiliary Air -Flow Rate too High
• 99 Auxiliary Air Valve Jammed Open
• 100 DME Control Unit -Self-Test Failed
• 103 VANOS Error -Inlet Camshaft
• 104 VANOS Error -Exhaust Camshaft
• 105 VANOS Error -Position Inlet Camshaft
• 106 VANOS Error -Position Exhaust Camshaft
• 109 Throttle Valve Plausibility
• 110 Pedal Sensor Value Potentiometer 1
• 111 Pedal Sensor Value Potentiometer 2
• 112 TPS Potentiometer 1
• 113 TPS Potentiometer 2
• 114 Throttle Valve Final Stage
• 115 Reference Voltage -Voltage Regulator 1 or Throttle Pedal Adaptation (MS43)
• 116 Reference Voltage -Voltage Regulator 2
• 117 Plausibility -Pedal Position Sensor 1/2
• 118 Plausibility -TPS 1/2 or TPS1/Airflow Plausibility (MS43)
• 119 Throttle Valve Sensor -Mechanical Error or TPS2/Airflow Plausibility (MS43)
• 120 Plausibility Pedal Sensor or TPS
• 122 Engine Oil Temperature
• 123 Map Cooling Thermostat Control
• 124 Activation DISA Solenoid
• 125 Activation Electric Fan
• 126 Activation Tank Leak Pump Solenoid
• 127 Activation Pump Solenoid
• 128 DME/EWS Communication
• 129 CAN Signal SMG 1
• 130 CAN Signal ASC -Timeout
• 131 CAN Signal Instrument Cluster -Timeout
• 132 CAN Signal Instrument Cluster -Timeout
• 133 CAN Signal ASC -Timeout
• 134 SMG Intervention -Plausibility
• 135 Throttle Valve Re-Adaptation Required
• 136 Throttle Valve -Spring Test and Limp-home Position Failed
• 137 CAN Signal -Steering Angle Sensor
• 139 CAN Signal -Tank Level Sensor
• 140 Tank Leak Pump Solenoid - Reed Switch Open or Output Stage (MS43)
• 141 Tank Leak Pump Solenoid - Reed Switch Stuck Closed or Tank Level Sensor (MS43)
• 142 Tank Leak Pump Solenoid - Reed Switch Stuck Open or DMTL Module (MS43)
• 143 Tank Ventilation or Tank Leakage (MS43)
• 144 Fuel System - Large Leak Recognised
• 145 Fuel System - Small Leak Recognised
• 146 EVAP System Leak Detected (Small Leak) or Pedal Sensor Supply Voltage Pot 1 (MS43)
• 147 Pedal Position Sensor Potentiometer Supply Channel 1 (Pot 2 MS43)
• 149 Air Flow Sensor or Pedal Value Sensor Mismatch
• 150 Lambda Post Cat Bank 1 Max Limit
• 151 Lambda Post Cat Bank 2 Max Limit
• 152 Lambda Post Cat Bank 1 Min Limit
• 153 Lambda Pre Cat Bank 2 Max Limit
• 154 Lambda Pre Cat Bank 2 Min Limit
• 155 Lambda Pre Cat Bank 2 No Signal
• 156 Lambda Pre Cat Bank 1 No Signal
• 157 Lambda Post Cat Bank 1 Min Limit
• 159 Lambda Post Cat Bank 2 Max Limit
• 160 Lambda Post Cat Bank 2 (MS41) or Throttle Valve Stuck
• 161 Throttle Valve - Stuck
• 162 Throttle Valve -Control Deviation
• 168 Pedal Position Sensor Pot Supply 1 or MAP Cooling Thermostat Jammed (MS43)
• 169 Throttle Valve Output Stage Cut off after Fault
• 170 DME Control Unit -Self Test Failed
• 171 Plausibility - Throttle Valve
• 172 Pedal Sensor Potentiometer 1/2 Short Circuit
• 173 TPS Potentiometer 1/2 Short Circuit
• 174 Throttle Valve Potentiometer 1/2 Adaptation
• 175 Pedal Sensor 1 Adaptation
• 176 Pedal Sensor 2 Adaptation
• 186 Voltage Post Cat Bank 1
• 187 Voltage Post Cat Bank 2
• 188 Voltage Pre Cat Bank 1
• 189 Voltage Pre Cat Bank 2
• 190 EVAP -Reed Switch Open or Voltage Post Cat Bank 1 (MS43)
• 191 EVAP -Reed Switch Closed or Voltage Post Cat Bank 2 (MS43)
• 192 EVAP -Reed Switch Open
• 193 EVAP -Check Hoses
• 194 EVAP -Large Leak Detected
• 195 EVAP -Small Leak Detected
• 196 EVAP -Electrical Valve from LDP Pump or Barometric Pressure Sensor (MS43)
• 197 EVAP -Barometric Pressure Sensor
• 198 Cat Efficiency during Start -Bank 1
• 199 Cat Efficiency during Start -Bank 2
• 200 Lambda Regulation Bank 1 Pre Cat
• 201 Lambda Regulation Bank 2 Pre Cat
• 202 Lambda Regulation Bank 1 Post Cat
• 203 Lambda Regulation Bank 2 Post cat
• 204 Idle Control System -Idle speed not plausible
• 208 EWS -RPM Signal Error
• 209 EWS -Message Error
• 210 Ignition Feedback Resistor (ZSR)
• 211 Idle Speed Actuator -Mechanical
• 212 VANOS Bank 1 -Mechanical
• 214 Vehicle Speed Signal (VSS)
• 215 Lambda Sensor Bank 1 or ASC/MSR/EML -Interface not plausible
• 216 Lambda Sensor Bank 2 or EGS Position Signal
• 217 CAN bus error -EGS Signal not present
• 218 CAN module -Warning
• 219 CAN module -CAN Offline
• 220 Lambda Voltage Range Bank 1 Sensor 1
• 221 Lambda Voltage Range Bank 2 Sensor 1
• 222 Low Coolant Temperature or Lambda Sensor Control (MS43)
• 223 Lambda Sensor Switching Bank 1 Sensor 2
• 224 Lambda Sensor Switching Bank 2 Sensor 2
• 225 Cat Efficiency Bank 1
• 226 Cat Efficiency Bank 2
• 227 Mixture Deviation Bank 1
• 228 Mixture Deviation Bank 2
• 229 Lambda Sensor Switching Bank 1
• 230 Lambda Sensor Switching Bank 2
• 231 Lambda Sensor Switching Bank 1 Pre Cat
• 232 Lambda Sensor Switching Bank 2 Pre Cat
• 233 Catalytic Converter Overall Efficiency Bank 1
• 234 Catalytic Converter Overall Efficiency Bank 2
• 235 Lambda Heater Bank 1 Post Cat or Pre Cat Signal (MS43)
• 236 Lambda Heater Bank 2 Post Cat or Pre Cat Signal (MS43)
• 238 Misfire Cyl 1
• 239 Misfire Cyl 2
• 240 Misfire Cyl 3
• 241 Misfire Cyl 4
• 242 Misfire Cyl 5
• 243 Misfire Cyl 6
• 244 Crankshaft Interval Timing
• 245 Aux Air Injection System Bank 1
• 246 Aux Air Injection System Bank 2
• 247 Aux Air Injection System -Incorrect Flow Detected
• 248 Pre Cat Converter Efficiency -Bank 1
• 249 Pre Cat Converter Efficiency -Bank 2
• 250 Tank Venting Valve -Function
• 251 Tank Ventilation Diagnosis Error
• 252 Tank Ventilation System Vacuum
• 253 Activated Charcoal Filter Shut-off Valve Stuck Shut
• 254 Tank Ventilation System -Large Air Leak
• 255 Tank Ventilation System -Valve Stuck Open

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1 Answer

1996 Celica convertible soft top goes down but not back up?


Google search. Enter vehicle details and problem.

Nov 16, 2014 | 1996 Toyota Celica

1 Answer

91 Celica Temp. Fluctuations


my question to you is... is it getting hotter while your stopped at red lights, and does it cool down when you driving?

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1 Answer

2000 Chrysler Seabring Limited with Convertible top. The Convertible top goes back to open yet when closing the top it takes 2 people. 1 to press the button down and the 2nd to pull the top up on...


I believe it's electric. It sounds like the motor is going bad. In theory, it would be harder for the motor to lift it, than it would to lower it.

I hope this helps

May 10, 2011 | Chrysler Sebring Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The lights won't come up


Sorry to hear your having a problem with the lights.

Sadly - the lights are actually spring loaded to stay in the down position. The only known 'quick fix' is a stick cut to length and bracing them up.
The GOOD NEWS is - If neither will come up - try checking all the fuses. Get under the car CAREFULLY and check to see that a bump or something in the road or even a high curb hasn't cut a wire to the unit.
Many times it is just a loose connection - blown fuse or cut wire or a combination that will fix it for you.
Best of it and please if this helps fix it or helps give you solid direction please rate me high.

Thanks
RICESKI

Mar 18, 2010 | 1991 Toyota Celica

2 Answers

What is the cooling capacity in a 91 toyota celica? or how do i find out?


you mean how much coolant does it hold???? about 1.5 gallonns.

Oct 14, 2009 | 1991 Toyota Celica

1 Answer

Toyota Celica '91 ST184R - Key fob remote does not unlock the car


The ST18x didn't come with a factory fitted alarm, so this is going to be more general.

Your alarm will have a manual disarm somewhere. If you have a small cylindrical device with your keyfob, there will be a receptacle somewhere near the drivers seat. You need to open the door and press the two items together. If not, you may have a button hidden somewhere around the place. In this case the procedure is usually to hold the button while you insert the ignition key and turn it to the ON position.

Some alarms have a small round key. If your alarm has one, or if your keys came with one and you didn't know what it was for, you can open the bonnet, pop a little cover on the alarm box (it will be bolted to the firewall, usually on the right hand side as you look at it) and turn it off until you can get it repaired, or get a new one fitted.

If none of this works and your alarm is an alarm only and not an immobiliser, you can simply open the bonnet and cut all the wires going into the alarm. If it is also an immobiliser, don't touch anything unless you're handy with a soldering iron and multimeter and have a few hours spare. (You would need to pull the cover down from under the steering wheel, then start taking electrical tape off the big block connector with thick wires, and then start rebuilding the wiring that's been chopped to make way for the immobiliser system on a colour-matching basis.)

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1 Answer

My 99 Celica convertible top started closing about 1-2 inches short of where it did yesterday. Seems like something must of gotten bent or something is now in the way. Instead of just closing the two...


The latches are adjustable.
The top will not come all of the way forward because you may below on fluid.
Behind the rear seat is your motor/pump/reservoir combination.
With the top down, fill the reservoir to overflowing with ATF.
Cycle the system a few times and repeat.
Do this till the reservoir will take no more fluid.
Check the lines and cylinders for leaks. The fluid must be going somewhere.
If you replace any lines or cylinders, always do them in pairs.
Karl at Topgunwon.com

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2 Answers

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does the window try to move, meaning it is stuck in its track, or does the motor not try to move the window? If the latter then look at the rocker switch on your center console that controls the rear windows. I had to replace my switches to get my rear windows working.

Jan 21, 2009 | 1992 Toyota Celica

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