Question about 1998 Honda Accord
My 1998 Honda Accord air conditioning system will suddenly turn off as I am driving down the road (the lights on the A/C pannel will go out). Sometimes anywhere from 30 seconds to an hour later it will come back on...I'm unable to pinpoint a reason for when it does this. Sometimes it will stay on and other times it goes back off. The fan still blows air. I've replaced all of the fuses (which none have been blown).
I had the same problems with ac sometimes working and followed the instructions below and fixed my problem. I soldered in a jumper wire and ac problem was fixed
Does the fan still work? I had the exact same problem, andit took me a while to figure it out. I actually just had this fixed YESTERDAY.You certainly want to check fuses, relays, grounds, etc., but this is likelythe issue:
I don't know if you're in the northern hemisphere, where the hotter weather isapproaching, but you will probably notice that it doesn't work when the ambienttemperature rises. This is because something in the A/C / Heater Control Unit is going bad. It tookmine about 2 and half years to completely die; however, before it did, it wouldflash and go on/off just like you're explaining.
I ended up purchasing a new control unit from the Honda dealer: 275 bucks. Some of theinternet forums said it would run closer to 4 hundred for an OEM part, but atleast it wasn't that much. Here is a USED one on ebay for just over onehundred:
It took my mechanic about 30 mins to switch it out, and he charged 90 dollarsin labor (both determining the cause, and for removal of old, install of new).Now it works great. irst Post Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 1 Hi folks,
I had the same problem and took apart the heater control module to see if Icould fix it before dropping $300 on a new one-- in fact, mine was fixable withone jumper wire and a soldering iron. Read on.
Only the blower motor speed knob worked. None of the vent buttons, A/C button,or the lights work.
On the underside of the board, just jumper the input (leftmost) leg of the78dl05 voltage regulator in the middle of the board to the positive leg ofcapacitor C1. That's it.
Since the whole panel went dead all of a sudden, with nothing working, I priedopen the module with a small flat head screwdriver, and pulled the knobs off.
I tested the 5v regulator which supplies 5v power using the 12v from thebattery. The part is 78dl05 and it is in the middle of the board.
It was not outputting 5v, so I next checked if it was receiving 12v.
Pin 1 Input (12v)
Pin 2 output (5v)
Pin 3 Common (ground)
Pin 1 of the harness is +12v, and the ground pin is in the very middle all byitself. The board was receiving +12v. So that means that there is an opencircuit somewhere between the regulator and the connector.
So I traced back from the input leg of the 78dl05 to the connector CN1. Thefirst through hole was covered in greenish blue corrosion. It is locatedunderneath a rubber strip directly below the 78DL05, which is why I didn't spotit immediately. I wouldn't be surprised if this is how most of these boards fail.
The only other thing between the input leg and the connector CN1 is acapacitor, C1. It looked fine (wasn't burst or leaking). I could have attemptedto fix the through hole in the board, but it would likely die again, so Idecided to just jumped the input leg to the capacitor, which provides a handyplace to solder to.
I jumped the positive side of C1 to the input leg of the 78dl05 (left most leg,labeled in+ on the top side of the board) and then plugged it back into theharness, turned the car on, voila, all works fine.
$293 for the part from the Honda dealer and probably $100 more in labor-- youcan do it yourself in 15 minutes if you have a soldering iron ($12 fromRadioshack) and a couple of screw drivers. Stupid simple. Quote: Originally Posted by Bowzer I just fixed a 2000 Accord LX with this snafu. The good news is that this is as close to plug and play for a fix as you can get.
You can look up how to access the radio for detailed directions but in a nutshell:
- Remove plastic shroud/surround in center of dash
*remove 2 screws at bottom
*FOr third scres, it's hidden behind the clock. Using a thin bladed knife (I used a kitchen knife wrapped in a paper ticcue to avoid scratshing) or screwdriver, pry the bottom of the clock out and pull the unit out. Unplug the wires and set aside. Take out 3rd screw behind in dash. Lift shroud from bottom out.
- AC control unit is mounted to the back of the shroud.
*Disconnect the 2 wiring harnesses from AC control unit.
*Remove the 5 mounting screws and remove AC unit panel.
*Before mounting new unit, lug in the 2 wiring harnesses and check operation...you should be good to go if the original part was the failure.
- Replace pieces in reverse order
Easy-Peasy...be careful and patient with those plastic pieces so you don't scratch them. Attached images
Posted on Jul 14, 2012
You have an AC relay somwhere. rotate it or replace it. When you turn the AC on listen for a click in the fuse boxes. That will be the relay.
Posted on May 31, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Same thing happened to me they said it was a recall but I'm sure that's over . What I did was go on eBay and found the AC panel for the yr of my car, if he panel looks crapy because it's used ya may get it cheaper. Was about 50$ I think or less with shipping. You have to get the one for your car you can't switch from analog to digital it won't work I herd. But I replaced it and it works just great used my panel and buttons so everything is like my old dash but used the used climat unit be careful there are little plastic rods with heads on them that will come out. But real easy to do takes about 15 minutes
Posted on Sep 20, 2010
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