Question about 2005 Chrysler Town & Country
1) remove the 2 screws from the door. There is one behind the handle and one on the arm rest where you pull the door shut. Pry off the little plastic covers and simply screw them out. There might also be one on the bottom of the very bottom of the door panel, but there was not on my van.
2) Pry off the auto window control panel. It takes some force, but should off clean and be able to re-insert without any replacement parts.
3) Pull the door panel off. It's held on by a number of clips, so you'll want to start at one corner and pull all the way around. It sounds like you are breaking the door, but it's just the sound of the clips popping. YOU MAY BREAK SOME CLIPS, but you can re-insert them easily...if you can find them. I had to look at 3 different auto parts stores. But you can move them around so that they are in the right place and get by with less clips than you think when you replace the door.
4) push the panel up over the lock button and pull slowly back and unplug the connection to the control panel, this should pull out pretty easily. Then disconnect the door handle from the rod by rotating it and pulling down. It will push right back in the same way.
5) The motor is at the bottom and is connected to the regulator. check the regulator to make sure it's not damaged. If it really is just the motor, you won't hear anything when you push the window button. If the regulator is locked up, you will hear the motor trying to push against it.
6) Unplug the electric connection from the motor.
7) Make sure the window is held in place. I taped it in place, but the tape left a residue, so if possibe, you'll want to wedge something in to hold it fully upright.
7) Use a pliers to remove the circular sheet metal cover that attaches the regulator to the motor. I pulled this off before disconnecting the motor itself and then pulled the white wire coil off and attached it to my new motor to make sure everything worked before removing the old motor.
7a) Beware of the regulator cables wrapped around the spool. In my case, once I got the spool and cable guide off of the motor, the cables unraveled instantly from the spool.
7b) Since they are unraveled anyways, pull the cable ends out of the spool and place the white cable keeper on the motor. 7c) Run the cables through the cable keeper with the spring spacer tube feeding into the end. 7d) To wind the cables back up, lock the cable end from the right back into the front of the spool and wind it in the logical direction (I say this because the lock on the spool points the cable in the direction it will be wound). 7e) Next thread and lock the back (short cable coming from the left if your window was stuck in the full up position) cable into the lock on the back of the spool and again wind in the logical direction. This is another tricky part because the cables will be very tight when wound correctly. i held the spool horrizontal and had to pull the back (now top) cable over the first wind of itself in order to get it in the correct position. 7f) Now slowly and carefully tilt the spool back to the normal vertical position and see if it miraculously matches the position of the new motor shaft (square). Don't worry, if it doesn't, temporarily hook up the motor wire to the motor and the window switch (unless you have a helper who can operate the drivers side switch) to the car wire and slightly tap it. 1 tap was all it took for mine to line up and on it went.
8) Attaching the regulator coil to the new motor is easy, just push it in place and re-attach the metal cover by bending the little tabs back over the motor. If the square drive is not alligned with the regulator coil indent, you can plug in the new motor and use the swith to rotate it into place. This is also a good check to make sure it works and that you problem is not in the wiring. 9) After the metal cover is back on, reconnect the electrical and you can test the new motor before you actually mount it. 10) To remove the old motor, there are 3 bolts with rubber encased nuts on the back. They will screw out, but they can be tricky. First try holding with your fingers. If that doesn't work, try a thin pair of pliers (like needle nose), but make sure they are as close to the sheet metal as you can get. If that fails, the rubber is most likely weakened and you should be able to just pull or wedge the motor away from the door and the nut will pull out of the rubber (I was able to get one with my fingers, one with pliers and had to pull the other thru).
11) Then I bought some new bolts, nuts and washers and screwed the new motor in normally. Optionally, the bolts and rubber washers can be replaced by parts from a home improvement store such as Lowe's or Home Depot. Purchase at least three of each of the following.
Posted on May 30, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
there should be a triangle shaped plastic section on the interior of the door behind the mirror, check it for a little plastic screw cover to remove it or you may just have to lever it gently to remove it.
once it is off it exposes the mirror retaining bolts which you undo to remove the mirror, I presume it has electric mirrors and if that is the case you will have to find the electrical wire plug for the mirror and pull it apart, replace mirror in reverse order of removing
Posted on May 13, 2009
SOURCE: Power window does not work
you need to buy or make a clip removal tool. it looks like a sturdy 2 prong fork to pry off the plastic clips.this id whats holding the interior panel and some screws holding the door opener
Posted on May 30, 2009
In order to achieve different speeds for the fan motor, there is a bank of resistors that reduce the voltage depending on what speed is selected. This is basicaly the same design for all cars on the road. The fail mode causes the full voltage to bypass the resistor bank so the fan runs at high speed (maybe even higher than your normal high setting). On most newer vehicles, including your '02 T&C, to help keep the resistors cool, they are mounted to a heatsink and then that assembly is mounted in a hole in the A/C ductwork just below or behind the glovebox. My '02 T&C has the 3 zone auto temp control and it had a fancier resistor block, but the function is the same. You should be able to get the cheaper one for <$25 at a parts store.
Posted on Apr 30, 2010
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