Question about 2004 Ford Econoline

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How do you remove heads does engine need to come out and if so how do you get it out

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Hi: It depends on weather you have a 6 cylinder or a V-8 and on a Econline Van You will have limited Space to Pull the Heads. So I do Recommend you Pull the Engine.Start at your Battery Disconnect it , I'm Assuming you Have Rear Wheel Drive- Remove your Drive Shaft, You Need to Remove You Exhaust Manifolds,Disconnect All and Any Wires running to Coil,Sensors,And Mark Them on the wire and where it connected to with say Masking Tape With a Mark From Different Colored Markers.This Way You Get every Thing Back right when you Reinstall your Enging.OK now we Still got More To Disconnect >Remove your Speedometer cable At your Transmission.While Down There Disconnect your Cross Over Transmission Mount Bolts, And Start Discounting your Transmission Bell Housing Bolts,(This is a Dome Looking Housing the Bolts your Transmission to your EngineAnd since your still under the Vehicle you'll need to Disscount the Motor Mount 1-Per Side of your Engine.Should Be 1 Long Bolt on Each Side that you'll need to Take The Nuts Off and Remove the Bolts.(Might Have to Jack the engine up just a Fraction if there Stubborn ,To release the Weight of your Engine on The Motor Mount Bolts. Were not Done yet> Ok now if you Have Cruise Control you'll need to Remove the Cables and Vacum Line.Mark Them Also.Also Remove your Radiator Hoses top and Bottom ,You'll Need a Lagre Pan Here to Catch the Fluid that comes out.Now Disconnect any Linkage going to the the Throttle Body Looks like a Carberator.And Remove and Mark ALL the Vacum Lines ThatRun to Anything that not Connected to Your Enging.If you Have Vacum Lines That Just run from Something On your Engine to Anything Else on Your Engine You Won't Need To Disconnect Them Same With Any Wiring As Long they don't Run to a Different Componet off The Engine Just Leave Them Connected.OK Now Don't Forget to Remove Your Heater Hoses Also,I would Take them off at the Engine and Not at The Firewall.Now on the Bottom of your Radiator you;ll need to Remove the Metal Lines Attached to the Raditor From Your Transmission(IF ITS A AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSON) Ok Now back down to the Transmission you'll need to Remove All The Linkage for Your Gear SelectorThey Will be on the Drivers side of Trans Missin.Now Look Very Carefully at any Remaining Wires Like to your Alternator , A/C Compressor,From The Firewall to See that you Have Indeed have Disconnected ANY and ALL Wires and Hoses Vacum and Cooling System Like The Heater Hoses. NOW With a Transmission Jack Reassuring that theres nothing else Connected to you Transmission You'll Need to Make Sure ALL Bell Housing and Torque Convetor Bolts have Been Removed Jiggle the Transmission back and Forth while on The Tranny Jack and Pulling it Back Wards away from your Engine Clear It Completly from Your Engine.(MIGHT WANT TO USE A DRIP PAN A LARGER PAN ,you can get at your Auto Parts Store. To Catch The Transmissin Fluid You'll Lose.On Econoline Vans The Engine Hoist will Go inside your Vehicle From Your Side Door On Your Van.You'll Probally Have To Remove at Least your Front Passenger Seat to Give Clearance for Your Engine To Come Out. Assuming you Have Everything Disconneted ,Take A Chain Lossen Two Bolts across From Each Other Run them (2) Bolts Through a chain not Very Long But Long Enough to Get the Engine Lift Connected To the Chain Besure when you Put Back the 2 Bolts that the Chain Is Connected to, Your have to Make Sure You Have Several Threads Caught when Tightening the Bolts Back in Your Intake or Where ever You Pulled the Bolts to Attach your Lift Chain To,In Some Cases Your Mioght Be Better Off Getting a Couple of Longer Bolts and a Flat Wasger on Both Bolts so Bolt Heads Don't Accidently Pull Through The Chain. Now DOUBLE CHECK all over your Engine and Under Neath To Make Sure Nothing Else is Connected To Your Engine, Its Time To Start Slowly Jacking Up The Engine Lift Slowly. If you seen To not be Lifting your Enging You Might Have Something Else You Over Looked Still Connected. If not Be Care and Remove Your Engine Slowly Up and Once You Clear the Opening of your Engine Cover You Can Start Manuveing your Engine Right Out The Side Door. Now you Can Easily Pull the Head or Heads. From he WYOCWBOY Please Give Me Feed Back By Voting On How well i've Helped You. Thanks Good Luck Come back to me the WYOCWBOY Anytime.

Posted on May 30, 2010


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I. Need. Help. With. Cam bolts. And head bolts

Part 1 of 3: Getting to the head bolts

Materials Needed
  • Eye protection
  • Gloves
  • Oil and coolant drain
  • Parts cleaner or brake cleaner
  • Shop rags
  • Socket set and ratchet1: Drain the oil and coolant. Put on your eye protection and gloves and drain the oilfrom the vehicle.
    Make sure the vehicle can not be started by removing the negative cable from the battery. Next the coolant will need to be drained so it does not leak when the head bolts are loosened.
    Step 2: Clean valve cover. Use some of the parts cleaner or brake cleaner to clean up the valve cover and as much of the cylinder head as is reasonable.Remove valve cover. If necessary, remove other components to make the valve covers accessible, and start removing the bolts from the valve cover.
    Once all bolts are removed carefully removed the valve cover from the cylinder head. If any valve cover gasket material remains, remove it at this time and clean any excess oil from the edges. Set the valve cover aside carefully as it will be reused with a new gasket once repairs are completed.

    Part 2 of 3: Pushrod engine head bolt removal

    Materials Needed
    • Head bolt socket (if needed)
    • Numbered cardboard
    • Rubber hammer
    • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Rocker arm and rocker removal. A pushrod engine has long pushrods that protrude through the cylinder head and attach to the rocker rail.
      The rocket arm will need to be loosened first. Many manufactures have a specific sequence for removal of the rocker arm bolts. After the rocker arm is removed, the rockers will be unbolted.
      Set all rocker arms aside in the order they were removed as they should go back to the cylinder they were removed from.Step 2: Remove the pushrods. Remove the pushrods one at a time from the cylinder head.
      Put them into a numbered piece of cardboard as the pushrods will go back into the same slot they came from.Step 3: Loosen head bolts. Use the ratchet begin to break the cylinder head bolts loose.
      Each bolt will be loosened but not removed. Loosen all of the bolts before removing any of the the bolts all the way.
      Step 4: Remove the bolts. Place each bolt through a numbered hole in the cardboard in case the head bolts are different lengths so they can be installed back into the proper hole.
      The bolts may require a special socket depending on the manufacture.
      Step 5: Lift off the cylinder head. Once all bolts are removed, lift up on the cylinder headgently; the head should come free easilyIf the cylinder head sticks, lightly use a dead blow or rubber mallet to tap the cylinder head to be able to remove it. Set to the side in a safe area.
      • Warning: Cylinder head bolts have a specific sequence that is used when removing them. Consult the manufacturer's specifications for the proper removal sequence for the engine being worked on.

      Part 3 of 3: Overhead cam head bolt removal

      Material Needed
      • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Remove the timing cover. The timing cover will need to be removed to gain access to the timing belt or chain.
        This is necessary because the cam shaft sits in the cylinder head and is attached to the crankshaft with either a timing belt or timing chain.
        Step 2: Time the engine to remove the belt. The engine will need to be timed to avoid damage when the timing belt is removed.
        Each engine is different and will have its own procedures to time. There should be marks on the camshaft and crankshaft that will be aligned to set the timing at top dead center (TDC)Step 3: Remove the timing belt. The timing belt tensioner will be removed or released to take the tension off the belt.
        Once the belt is loosened, it should be able to be slipped of the camshaft in the cylinder head.Step 4: Remove the head bolts. Every engine will have its own procedures for the order that the head bolts are removed or tightened.
        Loosen head bolts ¼ turn each in the order specified, which may require a special socket. Once all the bolts have been loosened they may be removed one at a time. The bolts must be organized or marked in case they are different lengths.
        Step 5: Remove the cylinder head. Once all the bolts are removed, the cylinder head may be removed from the engine. If it is stuck, tap lightly on the side of the head with a rubber hammer to loosen the cylinder head.
        • Warning: Most head bolts are torque-to-yield. These head bolts are single use only and once removed must be replaced. Torque-to-yield head bolts stretch when they are torqued to allow them to tighten properly and repeated application can cause the head bolt to break.
        Removing the head bolts can seem like a daunting process

Sep 29, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What labor is required to fix a timing belt that slipped and bent a valve on 1997 Subaru legacy outback?

At a minimum, you will need to remove the head and have the valve(s) that were damaged replaced. The head should be fully reconditioned however, since you already have it off. You will also need to inspect the piston(s) for damage from when they hit and bent the valves. Scratches or nicks in the piston surface can cause hot spots that will cause premature failure. The block should be checked for flatness prior to head replacement and resurfaced if needed. Then, once the head, valves, pistons, and block are found in good repair, a new head gasket, water pump, and timing belt will round out the repair. With the right setup, it can be done with the engine in the vehicle....but it is easier to do with the engine removed (if you need to resurface the engine block you HAVE to remove the engine.

Aug 16, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

Buick Park Avenue 1998 head gasket repair the mechcanic said it has blown head gasket and the engine must be removed to repair is this true

The engine does not need to be removed to replace the head gasket on your engine. More than likely it is an intake gasket that failed and showing the typical symptoms of a blown head gasket. If the intake gasket repair is put off long enough, it can turn into a blown head gasket and I've only had about a 50% success rate replacing the head gasket. They usually work fine for a few months, but the oil and water mix causes the oil to lose it's lubricating properties and even after fixing the cause of the problem, the damage may already be done to the engine bearings and the engine may knock later on down the road. You may want to get a quote on a used replacement engine if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a while and compare to the price of fixing it. In the long run, it will probably be a better solution.

Jun 06, 2011 | 1998 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

I have a honda civic ex i will like to know how to change the head gasket whether i have to remove the engine from the car

Dear Sir,
For replace head gasket you no need to remove engine you can replace gasket there only but you have to remove cylinder head and do head facing and then put it back with new gasket thanks.

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I have a 1995 Suzuki sidekick 16 valve 1.6 engine, that I am going to replace head gasket. I have removed everything except the timing belt, distributor, and head. My question is why is it that in the...

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How to change a blown head gasket

Changing a head gasket is a major engine repair. Unless you have a good set of tools including a torque wrench and a good general knowledge of how things work, it can be a tough job. If you still want to try, I would highly recommend a repair manual for your vehicle such as a Haynes manual that covers 1997 Toyota trucks. It will have pictures of most of the parts as well as the specifications for tightening all the bolts when you are ready to put it all back together. Basically replacing a head gasket requires that you do the following: Drain the coolant, drain the oil. Remove fuel lines to and from the engine, remove the electrical and vacuum lines that lead to and from the intake manifold,remove the alternator, air pump, ac compressor, tie it back, don't disconnect the refrigerent lines, remove the valve cover remove the intake manifold, remove the front engine cover which will expose the timing belt. Remove the timing belt, remove the cam shaft. You should now see the head bolts. Remove the head bolts. Carefully tap on the head until you can loosen it from the engine block. You may have to drive a wedge between the head and the engine block to force it to loosen up. This is a delicate operation, because if you damage the head during removal, it won't seal with the new gasket. You will need a top rebuild gasket set for your engine. Somewhere around $150.00. Every gasket surface needs to be cleaned to the bare metal without scratching the surface. Any old gasket material left on the parts will cause leaks. Once you get the head off, spend another 150.00 or so to get it boiled out by a head shop in your area. They will also test it for leaks and cracks. If the head is cracked, it will have to be replaced. If you don't get it checked for cracks, this whole exercise will be wasted if it turns out to be a cracked head instead of a blown head gasket. Anyway, reverse everything, tighten it by the book to specified torque put in new oil and antifreeze and you are set to go. I replaced my first head gasket when I was about 15 years old. It took me a couple of weeks and I broke about 6 or 7 bolts off on things like the intake manifold, front cover etc. I learned a lot from that old '58 ford. Good luck, and get that Haynes manual.

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