Question about 1994 GMC Safari

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Alternator not charging the gage saying not charging but charging 9 volts had alternator tested its charging 14-15 voltes its got a new battery not charging good enough

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ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT SLIPPING OR BATTERY CABLES NEED REPLACING IF THEY ARE THE ORIGINAL ONES.THE VOLT GAUGE COULD BE FAULTY.TO TELL GET A DIGITAL VOLTMETER HOOK TO CAR BATTERY CRANK CAR UP.BATTERY VOLTAGE SHOULD BE 13.5 TO 14.5 VOLTS. WITH NEW CABLES. IF NOT CHECK ALTERNATOR FIELD WIRES FOR DAMAGE ALSO ALTERNATOR POSITIVE WIRE FOR DAMAGE.

Posted on May 30, 2010

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Charging system failed. Why is new alternator output ranging between 11 1/2 and 12 1/2 volts?


11 1/2 to 12 1/2 is not charging . That's less then battery state of charge , Battery stat of charge should be 12.6 volts , when charging with a volt meter you should see 13.1 to 14.1 volt at the battery posts . Is there a battery symbol lit on your instrument cluster ? Is there battery B+ voltage at the wires hooked to the alternator How to Test an Alternator

Feb 18, 2016 | 2001 Kia Spectra

1 Answer

What would cause the battery gauge on a 93 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo to bounce between 14v and 9v. this is also running the battery dead and not charging the battery back up.


Several things need to be checked before an accurate diagnosis can be made, however in general it is most likely your alternator going out OR a bad connection in your alternator/charging circuit wiring.

It's also important to test/verify that you have a good fully charged battery (with no dead cells) before any tests of the charging system. An alternator needs ample battery power into it before it can produce good charging voltage and amps out of it and back into the battery.

If you test the voltage directly out of the alternator's output post/connector (with the output wire disconnected), you will be reading direct alternator voltage output, which should be approx 13.5 to 14 volts, steady. If the voltage is at ~14 volts, then suddenly cycles down to 9 volts (or anything less than 12 volts), then you have a defective alternator.
If the alternator, while isolated, tests out at a constant 13.5 to 14 volts, then the problem is most likely a bad wire or connection in the charging circuit wiring.

There is also the possibility of the battery (how old is it?) shorting out internally, causing the voltage fluctuation. That's why I previously said you need to verify each battery cell is fully charged and good. You can usually test this with a battery hydrometer (if it's not a "sealed" maintenance free battery).

Nov 05, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

F150 alternator


check the battery with a meter on volts. on a good charge it should be around 12.05v. run engine and test battery again should say around 13-14 volts. if you get 7-8-9 volts then the alternator is not working.. and the alternator is fitted to the fan belt has 2 bolts holding it in place, take the belt off. and remove its bolts and unplug the wire plug and un bolt the thick wire off the copper nut. replace with new or one known to be working.

Oct 15, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

71 c10 not staying charged... new battery alternator fuses good and new voltage regulator


Maybe it wasn't running long enough to charge up the battery?
Stop trying to jump it, when you are having problems with it dying, take the battery off and have it charged. And/or buy a $20 voltmeter to see what the battery shows. If it says less than 12 volts, it is discharged, and needs charging. A good battery that is not run down should have at least 12.5 volts. A new battery that is charged should have very close to 13 volts, maybe 12.8 volts.
When you have the truck running, check the alternator for charging. You put the voltmeter right on the battery and check it again. This time, with truck running, battery should show at least 13.5 volts. That shows the alternator is working. A good alternator will put out about 13 or 14 volts-the regulator will keep it from going any higher to prevent problems, like a melting battery or electrical parts burning out.
I would say get the charging system working right, then address the problem of dying at stop lights. That could be a carburetor problem, if the alternator is working.

Aug 15, 2013 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 2005 Pontiac Sunfire has had several problems over the past couple of months. When I was driving all my gages went to zero when I would start to break. After I started moving again they would go up....


Your car's symptoms (voltage fluctuations under load that shouldn't happen) seem to
strongly indicate that your voltage regulator has failed. The voltage regulator is the component
that regulates voltage coming from the alternator, and which is supplied to the rest of the car.
Your new belt tensioner indicates to me (and should have to your mechanic) that the
alternator and/or voltage regulator weren't able to operate properly, and a faulty belt tensioner
has killed more than one car's alternator/voltage regulator.
Your do not need new headlights. Do fix the turn signals.

In the 2005 Sunfire, the voltage regulator is an integral component of the alternator, and is
not separately serviceable. So your 2005 Sunfire needs a new alternator.

2005 Pontiac Sunfire Alternator - Duralast Part Number: DL2305-15-4 $199.99 available at:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2005-Pontiac-Sunfire/Alternator/_/N-jmqtpZ93xme

The national parts chains (Advance Auto Parts, AutoZone, Pep Boys) will (for free) administer
a "Charging System Test." Which will telly you for sure that your alternator/voltage regulator
is bad. Do this before replacing alternator, since its a pricy part in the 05 Sunfire.

Just in case, Here's the 2005 Sunfire manual entry on (a) Diagnosis & testing the alternator, and
(b) replacement of the alternator

Alternator replacement is a do-it-yourself project, though you may need to get a
"Serpentine Belt Kit" on your favorite parts store's loan-a-tool program to remove/re-install the serpentine (drive) belt.
======================================================================
Diagnosis & Testing - 2005 Pontiac Sunfire Alternator


Alternator Load Test

1. With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).

2. Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.

3. Measure the voltage reading at the battery.

4. The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE
Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (voltage regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.




Alternator No-Load Test

1. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
CAUTION
Ensure that the transmission is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel is optional and an added safety measure.


2. Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.)

3. Start the engine and increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm.

4. Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more than 2.5 volts.

5. If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.
NOTE
Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.


6. If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.



Voltage Test

1. Make sure the engine is OFF , and turn the headlights on for 15-20 seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery.

2. Using a DVOM set to volts DC, probe across the battery terminals.

3. Measure the battery voltage.

4. Write down the voltage reading and proceed to the next test.



Removal & Installation - 2005 Pontiac Sunfire Alternator


2.2L (VIN 4) Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Negative battery cable

Accessory drive belt

Alternator mounting bolts

Alternator electrical connectors

Alternator





To install:

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.

Alternator. Torque the upper bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) and the lower bolt to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).

Alternator electrical connectors

Accessory drive belt

Negative battery cable





2.2L (VIN F) Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.

2. Remove or disconnect the following:

Negative battery cable

Accessory drive belt

Alternator mounting bolts

Alternator electrical connectors

Alternator





To install:

1. Install or connect the following:

Alternator. Torque the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).

Alternator electrical connectors

Accessory drive belt

Negative battery cable

Sep 05, 2011 | 2005 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

2002 mercury montaineer , battery light comes on , they gages shut down couple minutes after then the truck acts like it gonna shut off....when getting a jump, the truck fires right up, couple minutes...


Your battery is definitely low. First clean the terminals on the battery and the inside of the terminal rings on the wires. If you have a slow charger put it on that overnight and see if it holds a charge. If it still keeps depleting or doesn't charge overnight then either your battery or your alternator are done....possibly both. So take the battery to have it load tested. Most places that sell them can test them. If the battery is done replace it then test the battery with a volt meter. If the old battery is still good put it back in the vehicle and test the voltage with a volt meter. With the engine off the voltage should read 12 volts (once its fully charged or if its new) with the engine running it should read around 14 volts. If it is way higher than that or it doesn't go up at all your alternator requires replacing. Alternators are fairly easy to replace but if you don't feel comfortable with that take it in to a mechanic.

Jul 25, 2011 | 2002 Mercury Mountaineer

1 Answer

My mom has the same problem w battery w. chrysler 300m(2002) she allready replace w. new battey then chrysler service dept. told her the battery was fine n replace her starter now electric shop says it is...


Sounds like alternator if the battery is not staying charged or the output from alternator the big red wire is lost connection to battery +.
a voltmeter you can check with across battery and it should show minimum 13.8 volts minimum to be charging.
if the battery is low it should show 14.7 volts if it shows 12 volts or less with lights heater etc running then alternator is not charging.
You can get a cheap volt ohm meter from radio shack or walmart and use the DC setting 20 volt scale on meter and start the car and turn on everything and put the test leads of meter across battery terminals and see what the voltmeter says.

May 18, 2011 | Chrysler 300M Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replaced alternator and battery in 2002 Chevy Tahoe. Battery voltage remains between 9 and 14 (leaning more towards 9 and at times falling completely until trucks shuts off)


Hello,
When you say battery voltage how are you testing it? Are you looking at a gauge on the dash? Or are you physically testing it with a multi meter? If the truck is dying and you recently replaced the alternator and battery I would first suggest you to check all them connections again real good. Snug them all up. Check for corrosion and clean as needed. Did you replace the battery and alternator with new/re-manufactured battery and alternator? The alternator needs to put out at least 13.6 volts to charge your 12 volt battery or the battery will not maintain a charge. However the alternator runs the vehicle once it is started. The battery is used only to start the car and then the alternator runs it. So if your vehicle starts and runs and then dies you may have a bad alternator. Check your connections first and then test the alternator with a multi meter. Anything less than 13.6 volt will not suffice. 14+ volts would be the hopeful output of a good alternator.
regards, Tony

Apr 12, 2011 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

Have a 2004 saab aero 9-3. Recently battery died. It was shorted. But 6 years old. Replaced battery. Now often when trying to start, makes one loud click and won't start. Displays flicker and/or go black,...


I was having the same problem with my 2004 9-3. I assumed the starter was bad and replaced it. I then charged the battery and found it wouldn't fully charge. After charging for several hours when I removed the charger I only showed 11 volts at battery posts. The new battery tested 12.8 volts and the car started well. With the car idling I tested and showed 14.6 volts at the battery post which confirmed my alternator was charging.

I do believe I replaced the starter in error and that it was just a bad battery. When my battery was failing I had dim headlights and flashing displays that you described and the clicking noises also. When I put jumper cables on my saab and let the bad battery charge for several minutes the car would start right up and the headlights would brighten up and even though the battery was bad the idle voltage at the battery posts was increased to 14.6 volts coming from the alternator.

Remember to remove the jumper cables quickly once the car starts to avoid possible electrical problems.

I have had bad starters in other vehicles that would draw a huge load on the battery and jump starting them would sometimes give enough voltage to turn the engine over and start it.

Bench tests aren't always correct because the components aren't under a true load. I had a brand new alternator fresh out of the box last year that was bad and wouldn't put out good voltage even though it bench tested perfect. Go figure.

Check your battery voltage with the engine off. It should read over 12 volts if its charged.

Sep 05, 2010 | Saab 9 3 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Motor rolls over slowly like drained battery or bad starter


Has timeing been checked and how does vehicle run

Oct 02, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

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