Question about 1988 Chevrolet S-10

2 Answers

I have a 88 S-10 with 4 wheel disk breaks,I have a new master cylinder and proportion valve,and all new break lines, I am trying to bleed the breaks but cant get a good pedal.my Q is how much pedal should you have with a manual break set up?

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Discribe manual! You mean no ABS System.?
As long as you have the correct replacement parts and the travel on the rod pushing the master cylinder,hasn't changed in length,you should be okey,once you get it flushed/bleed.
I assume you have the engine running and a partner to push on the brake pedal,as you bleed it.
You should have a firm pedal, well before the floor,just as with any vehicle.

Posted on May 29, 2010

  • Anonymous May 31, 2010

    Put the vehicle back together the way it was designed. e.g. put the power brake booster on.

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Power and manual have the same equivalent
Power is just easier to apply than manual
To BLEED brakes properly and this is the only way which will be correct is to start at the furthest point and work your way to the closest point upon completion. If not done this way air will be still in the lines

Posted on May 29, 2010

  • jrayhelms May 29, 2010

    I have work for over 2 hours trying to get the breaks bleed but just cant seem to get a pedal.
    Not sure what i am doing wrong?

  • jrayhelms May 29, 2010

    The truck had power breaks on it to start with.I have taken the booster off and going with out power breaks.my Q is do i need to change the rod to make this system work?

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1 Answer

The front drivers side break keeps locking. I have replaced the caliper and now when I pump it no fluid is coming out from the line.


Did air get into the master cylinder? If you can, try bleeding the master cylinder. The fact that you aren't getting any fluid out of the line suggests that the master cylinder isn't pumping fluid.

Master cylinders are (usually) on a split circuit system - that is, the front left brake is on the same line as the rear right. The front right brake is on the same circuit as the rear left.

A point to be aware of is when bleeding brakes/doing brake work and if the master cylinder runs dry, is that a seal inside the master cylinder can fail/twist over and not pressurise that particular line, even though it may pressurise the opposite brake line.

I'm in the UK. I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4 litre, which I am slowly rebuilding. Three weeks ago I fitted new front brake rotors, new front callipers and pads. I've been rebuilding cars for over 40 years now and have done countless brake overhauls.

.. and could I get a hard pedal after the job was completed? I must have bled the brakes three times a day for a week and couldn't get a brake pedal. I phoned a full time mechanic I know - he came and tried to bleed the brakes three times and couldn't get a hard pedal.

That's when you think 'The master cylinder was working before I started the job so it must be still working now'.

I fitted a brand new master cylinder and because some parts for older jeeps are hard to come by in the UK, I fitted a second hand proportioning valve. When I bled the brakes again the pedal became rock solid. Fixed.

You're probably fed up with your braking problem now ... and apparently this 'no fluid/brake pedal' is more common than you may think.

Try bleeding the master cylinder if you can. If you suspect that it isn't fully working - try an overhaul kit which is cheaper than a new master cylinder.

As for changing the proportioning valve .. that's your decision. My brakes now work though the truth is I don't actually know which was at fault as I changed both the master cylinder and proportioning valve at the same time. Maybe both were at fault, for whatever reason. I genuinely don't know.

The positive aspect is that you are doing your own work and know what you're doing. You're saving on labour charges.

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