Question about 1966 Ford Mustang

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Have to pump about 20 times to start when cold, where should choke adjustment be set at on the front of the 200 6 cylinder 1968 mustang carborator?

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The chokes on those carburetors never worked even when new. You have to(try to) adjust it cold so that it is closed, then, make sure the heat riser is hooked up, watch it as the engine warms up and see if it opens up. Should just take a couple minutes, it would be easier to hook up a bicycle cable to it and pull it on and off. Also, you should be able to adjust the timing a little so that thing will fire right up, check the timing and make sure the plugs are good and the wires. Hope this helps.

Posted on May 29, 2010

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Way late to the party, but maybe this will help the next person. I just worked through similar troubles with my 68 Mustang with straight 6. Here's what I learned. First, the choke is finicky... use some graphite and lube up the moving parts. This will make it much more reliable. Then adjust it so it just closes when cold. Make sure that heat pipe to the manifold is installed and that there is vacuum to the choke (hole that follows one of the two attachments screws back to the carburetor). As the engine warms up, you should see this slowly opening up. Then, look into the following...

1. Timing. Mine was spot on, so I didn't look into this one, but make sure it's right.

2. Spark Plugs. Remove, clean/replace and check the gaps (.035). You can learn a lot about what's going on in your engine by what the spark plugs look like, so do a search for that if you suspect anything. Ideally they'll be brown or light grey. Make sure your wires are in good condition (Shutting off the lights and watching for sparks from the wires where a short is occurring can help). Dielectric grease on the spark plug before reconnecting the wires.

3. Distributor. Check points with gauge, make sure wiring inside distributor is in good shape. Check the vacuum advance (remove hose from carb side, suck on it. If it leaks, replace it).

4. Accelerator pump (especially if linkage here is loose). Proper setting is to screw in adjuster screw till it just contacts the diaphragm, then 3.5 more turns. Mine was perfect with an additional 1/4 turn.

5. Look for major vacuum leaks. If you have the automatic trans, there is a large line running back to the vacuum modulator. The line could leak, or more rarely the modulator could leak. (Suck on this hose and see if it holds vacuum... it should). If this guy is leaking, it could allow trans fluid into the engine leaving white smoke. Also check around the carb with starting fluid. If you spray near a vacuum line and the engine revs, bingo!

Okay, so when you start the car, you should press once fully to the ground. This will engage the choke (if the engine is cold). The car should start right up now. There is a fast idle adjustment, so if the car sounds like it just needs more gas, use that (look in the linkages between the choke and the carb). Then, once the car warms up significantly, assure that the choke has fully opened, or you may want to adjust it once more.

Hopefully after this nice afternoon of tlc, your car will purr. This isn't a comprehensive for sure, but it just might be a good outline to work through till you've killed all the issues.

Good luck!

Posted on Mar 06, 2016


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Choke dont work

if too rich adjust choke leaner
if too lean, adjust choke righer.

from 1920 to about 1988 , usa, 70 years we did this.
no more. well we do, but most dont now.
i still have 1 twin carb motor cycle and one single carb VW 1968.
both restored.
also the chock heater must work and the choke spring not old.
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My 1968 mustang wont idle when I lift my foot off the pedal. But it will idle when I step on to the pedal. What do I do?

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I have a 66 mustang with the 200 straight 6 in it. my carb is an autolite 1100 and when i do a cold start on it my choke plate isnt closing. im setting it by pressing the petal to the floor which is...

loosen the screws on the side of the choke (do this when the engine is cold) and rotate the housing in the direction so that the plate closes-don't crank it too tight, just enough so that it is lightly closed. When you start it, as it warms up and you blip the throttle, the tension from the bimetal spring that closes the choke will lessen, and it'll end up streight-up when the car is warmed up.

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Hello, After my 1987 F-250, 7.5 L V-8, 4BBL sits for more than 12 hours I have to pump the accelerator anywhere from 20 to 50 times to get it to start. Once it starts it runs fine. I have replaced every...

That would be a Holley, probably model 4160 carb on it. You need to do a little detective work on this. You either need to adjust the choke or find out where the fuel is going after 12 hours.

First, when the engine is running check the Intake and Carburetor gaskets for vacuum leaks. Also spray by the Vacuum reserve canister (Like a coffee can) with either Choke cleaner or a water mist. Either way the RPM will change if you have a Vacuum leak. Fix the vacuum leak if you find one. The engine needs Vacuum to draw in the fuel for a cold start. There are vacuum ports with gaskets (Hidden until disassembled) where the Choke housing attaches to the main block of the Carburetor. A leak here will mess up the tiny piston inside the Choke. (Its under the Black cover and operates the stepup for cold starts).

The black choke dial should be set for 2 marks rich. You should not need excess force on the choke flap to unload it. The choke flap should maintain an opening about 2 credit cards thick measured between flap and carb housing. To get this space you bend the rod pushing the choke flap. This should help the choke work better.

If this does not help, on the next 12 hour interval check for fuel by taking off the strainer on the Carb inlet and remove the line from the carb to the pump. If the fuel line is dry you are losing the Prime to the pump. You must have either a bad pump or a hole in the fuel line from the tank.

Would like to know what you found. The Power pump inside the front bowl of your Holley has a number and you can go to a Holley website to see if it is correct for your truck. The fuel inside the front bowl of your Holley should be enough start the truck. Even if the bowl went dry overnight, the fuel pump would replenish the supply well before 20 to 50 pumps.

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Carburated vehicles ether have an automatic choke, or the very old ones, a hand choke. Yours has an automatic choke. The starting problem likely is a problem with the choke. The problem is almost certainly not the fuel pump.To set the automatic choke, push the accelerator to the floor, and RELEASE. Then start the engine just like you would a fuel injected vehicle. If this doesn't solve the problem, then the automatic choke needs to be repaired.

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I just rebuilt my F-150 1 barrel Carter carb (1985)once started runs great under all power ranges.Problem? Hard to start.

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