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2002 Chev Sub My Rear AC/Heat control is not working. Fuse is

My Rear AC/Heat control is not working. Fuse is fine.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 85 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Dodge Durango

blower motor resistor maybe why it only blows on high

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: front panel temperature control switch

Very likely the blend door is broken. This door is mounted beside the heater core, blends cool air with hot depending on the position of the door. At the bottom of the door at the hinge point, there is a gear and coupling driven by an electric motor to position the door. The coupling is a drive much like a square drive ratchet and socket made of plastic and often cracks allowing the drive to turn without changing the door position. I've heard you can drill through the outer housing and put a screw in the door through the drive gear, but you would have to know your way around this area well.
I repaired mine by replacing the blend door, a big job at best. The entire dashboard must come out to access the top of the heater core housing which must be removed.

Posted on Oct 12, 2008

  • 306 Answers

SOURCE: my 2000 s10 chev does not blow hot air on heat.the

The heat and cooling air flow is controlled by small plastic vacumn lines inside the dashboard. The main vacumn suppy for this comes from the engine vacumn lines. So - Find what you are missing in your vacumn lines.

Posted on May 07, 2009

johnjohn2
  • 5763 Answers

SOURCE: My rear AC and Heat is not working in my 2001Suburban

start by check all fuses, then check for power at rear blower.if fuses are good and you have power then may have bad blower,if no power and fuses are good then may have bad resistor. hope this helps good luck.

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

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sscullys
  • 984 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 Ford F150. Cruise control stopped working.

Did you have the recall done on it ?
recall 05S28. Description: Speed Control Deactivation Switch.

It could be a blow fuse in the recall harness, if you did have it done.

Try the self test, and see what the results are. If you do not get it into self test mode, it could be the fuse in teh recall harness that is blown. The 1st revision of the recall harness was an inline ATM fuse, not sure if the revision 2 was the same. If that fuse is blown, the switch is leaking, and should be checked.

Self-Test Diagnostics

WARNING:
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.

1. Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.

2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.

If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.

The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.

Note:
There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.

3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.

If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:

— 2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).

Posted on Feb 23, 2010

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blower motor resistor maybe why it only blows on high

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