Question about 2004 Dodge Stratus

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A sound in the front area of the car sounds like something needs greased, is there an area to pump grease into?

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  • Dodge Master
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Just the front end steering parts and lower ball joints,but if the noise is from the up,and down motion of the front end ,chances are the struts need replacing.

Posted on May 28, 2010

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Is it possible to lube the steering column on a 1999 Ford Taurus Wagon


where the column goes through the floor there is a rubber boot that could be the area causing the squeak, usually has a clip etc so loosen and pump in some grease and teast

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2001 Buick LeSabre Ltd. 128,000 miles. All new front struts and rear air shocks and stabilizer links. Even before that I get a creak (sounds like rubber) from both front sides when I go 15 mph over sp


Sounds like it could possibly be the upper or lower control arm bushings squeaking. There may possibly be a grease fitting on the control arm bushings, if so, have them greased. In fact get a complete grease job from a qualified mechanic. If the squeak stops then you know what is wrong. Then make sure you keep your care properly greased. Usually every time you change your oil or at least twice yearly.

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If it's a "squealing" sound - check the power steering fluid. If it's more of a grinding sound - then the wheel bearings were not properly "packed" with grease. Note - the grease needs to forced into the bearings by hand while rotating the bearings. I had a this problem myself when a "mechanic" just smeared some grease around the bearings.

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When I go over little bumps, my car creaks something awful... It is only in the front. It sounds like a squeaky bed. Is this something that needs to be oiled/lubricated, or something worse? What can this...


You need to get the front end greased on all the joints. Ball joints, Tie rods, and axles. Dirt gets in there and causes it to sound funny. You can also spray a little WD 40 on your shock as well.

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My 2001 Mercury Marquis has a sqeeking sound coming from front end, however there is no grease fittings to grease to reduce noise


That sound is a sign of rusted parts. You need to get the front end checked and may as well get an alignment. The manufactuers have reduced the number of grease fittings for years.

All the car makers, not just Mercury claim the parts are lubed for life. The parts would last longer if they could get fresh grease, but most people blow out the rubber boots by overfilling them anyway.

If the alignment shop doesn't find a problem with your car about all you can do is use a light oil or spray Lithium grease into the squeeking part.

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My 2000 323i has this horible sound coming from the font end. It sounds like the RPMs are racing but they are not. The noise gets louder as I accelerate. Throw it into neutrol on the go and the noise is...


"The rpms are racing" what? rpm= revolutions per minute.

There is no "grease to lose in the front end" the cv or constant velocity joints have grease in them, but you would know if something is wrong because the boot would be torn. The differential is in the rear of the car so that's not it because the "horible" sound comes from the front end.

probably a cv joint. could be a rubber flex joint as well.

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2 Answers

Grease leaking from the front passenger


Inner, (Large), wheel bearing has failed. This has caused the grease seal to fail.
Solution is to replace the bearing, and seal.

1.Check the bearing race in the brake rotor. If any pits, scoring, or other evidence of break down is present, the bearing race must be replaced also.

2.Check the outer wheel bearing and bearing race also. The inner bearing receives the most wear, but cleaning, and inspection of both bearings, and races is a standard procedure.

3.Observe the area on the spindle where the grease seal contacts. Insure that the spindle area is of good repair, and no scoring is evident.

The Black residue that you observe is grease mixed with brake dust.

The vehicle must be jacked up in the front, with safety stands placed in the proper area on both sides. Wheel chocks should be used behind the rear tires. The vehicle should be on a flat hard surface.

The wheel/tire is removed, then the brake caliper. The caliper is not removed from the brake hose, but hung from a hanger device, from the frame of the vehicle. (Small rubber tie down strap? Wire clothes hanger?)

Then the dust cap is removed, cotter pin, and spindle nut. Ease the brake rotor out, be ready to catch the outer bearing. Remove the brake rotor.

Rotor laying on two small wood blocks, (2x4's? 4x4?), blocks under rotor face. (Where the brake pads rub against)
Blocks placed so area of grease seal is not resting on them. Rotor is laying on blocks with outside of rotor facing up. (Outside of rotor faces outside of Tahoe)

Take a long punch, and tap out the grease seal from the inside of the rotor. Through the hole where the spindle goes through. Be careful that the punch is resting on the metal ring of the seal, and not the bearing race edge.


Oct 11, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Tahoe

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