Question about 1996 Geo Metro

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1996 geo metro, passenger side half shaft (CV joint) Shaft and ball joint shaft stuck in spindle unit. Tried lube and a wheele puller, any good ideas??

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I use a 3 arm puller to force the shaft out of the hub spline (do not hammer on the cv shaft at all, you will destroy it), and either a pickle fork or a specialy designed ball joint puller to seperate the balljoint from the knuckle. if you dont have a special puller and need to save the balljoint. try using a 6 or 8 foot steel bar to pry down on the lower control arm while another person strikes the knuckle at the balljoint location. note pin retainer type balljoints have a small slot which can be spread open alittle with a cold cut chisel or larg screw driver once the cv shaft is out of the way

Posted on May 28, 2010

  • Bill Eager May 28, 2010

    Already tried the three arm puller, no go
    As for the ball joint, it moved about an 1/8 of an inch and stopped.
    The drivers side slid right out, no rust.
    Passenger side pinch bolt had rust, I figure it's going to take some influence, just looking for direction.
    Never run ito one this stubbern in the CV's ive done over the years.

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To remove an inner CV joint, you must remove the entire half-shaft from the vehicle. Here is the procedure:

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

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  3. Press the stub shaft out of the hub, use a plaster hammer if necessary.
  4. If removing the left side halfshaft:
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  5. If removing the right side halfshaft:
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I have honda city 1994 model, pls advice me on how to change front wheel axle/cv joint/boot thanks madaan


  • Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30 and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.
  • 2 Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out the jack and move it out of the way.
  • 3 Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub, take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.
  • 4 Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm. Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud from the spindle.
  • 5 Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.
  • 6 Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket. Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.
  • 7 Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.



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    Cv shaft replace


    This is usually the same on all front wheel drive cars..

    Remove the wheel

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    -The next step may be optional, depends on the car-
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    Pull the wheel bearing assembly from the spindle of the CV half shaft.
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    Once its loose, all you have to do it yank it out, and push the new one in. Make sure the new one pops in and is seated firmly.

    Reverse steps for re-assembly. If you took the ball joint loose and it was riveted, use hardened steel bolts and nuts with lock washers to replace it, or buy a new ball joint, they aren't that expensive and it will come with bolts.

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