Question about 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

I HAVE A 1995 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LAREDO 2WHEEL DRIVE, STRAIGHT 6 CYLINDER MOTOR. I INSTALLED A REBUILT HEAD RECENTLY.PRIOR TO THAT IT HAD LOW COMPRESSION IN CYL. # 3. IT HAS AN ACCELERATION PROBLEM. IF I STEP ON THE GAS QUICKLY,IT SPUTTERS & HAS NO POWER,ALSO THE TRANSMISSION SURGES. I TOOK IT TO A JEEP DEALER.THEY SAID IT NEEDED A DISTRIBUTOR,CAM POSITION SENSOR,OXYGEN SENSOR. I REPLACED ALL THESE.IT MADE NO DIFFERENCE!I SUSPECT IT MAY BE A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM,I UNHOOKED THE THROTTLE CABLE THAT GOES TO THE KICKDOWN MECHANISM AND IT RUNS BETTER,BUT STILL HAS NO POWER. I ALSO HAD THE FUEL PRESSURE TESTED,IT WAS "OK".

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  • scottbrow Jun 04, 2010

    i haven't heard from the other expert since may 26th,i gave him more info but nothing.

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 1,297 Answers

Have you considered exhaust back pressure?



Posted on Jun 04, 2010

  • 7 more comments 
  • scottbrow Jun 04, 2010

    yes. i drilled a 1/2" hole just before the catalytic converter. it made no difference.

  • Sean Reisdorf
    Sean Reisdorf Jun 04, 2010

    well lets start with some vacuum readings...
    hook up a vacuum gauge to a manifold source and measure vacuum at idle
    then increase and hold engine RPM's are 2000
    watch and record your readings

    and finally snap the throttle a few times
    watch and record the vacuum readings

    also... how does the engine run/sound when in park or neutral?

    BTW... my name is Sean


  • scottbrow Jun 05, 2010

    it seems to idle "ok".i don't have a vacuum guage, i will need to buy one.i will let you know when i've tested the vacuum.

  • Sean Reisdorf
    Sean Reisdorf Jun 05, 2010

    thanks for the update and if you did not notice, when you post I respond
    may not be the same day but soon afterward
    however, if you could id your post(s) for me with my name, Sean, that would be great because you mentioned something about another "expert" not responding?


    Sean


  • scottbrow Jun 09, 2010

    Sean.

    i borrowed a vacuum guage.

    at idle = 18in./HG.

    2000rpm = 20in./HG.

    throttle snap = goes to zero,then goes to 23in./HG.,then after about a sec. it goes back to 18in./HG.

  • Sean Reisdorf
    Sean Reisdorf Jun 09, 2010

    alright... vacuum reading looks good
    do you have a scan tool?
    I'd like to see the TP and MAF readings


  • scottbrow Jun 12, 2010

    sean

    iborrowed a scan tool from someone at work when my wife 1st bought the car,it wouldn't connect properly. when i took it to the jeep dealer,they said they were able to connect to it. so i will try to borrow one again.

    thanks,scott

  • scottbrow Jun 12, 2010

    sean

    does "MAF" stand for mass airflow sensor? this car doesn't have one as far as i know.

    thanks, scott

  • Sean Reisdorf
    Sean Reisdorf Jun 12, 2010

    sorry... should have looked at when jeep swtiched
    your vehicle uses a MAP not MAF
    and you were correct MAF= mass air flow
    and MAP = manifold absolute pressure sensor


    MAP info...

    MAP sensor is mounted on engine compartment firewall. The MAP sensor is used by PCM to calibrate amount of air/fuel mixture supplied to the engine. This sensor measures manifold absolute pressure. Ambient barometric pressure is also measured when ignition switch is first turned on, during engine cranking, and at wide open throttle.
    The MAP sensor transmits a low voltage signal (1.5-2.1 volts) at idle when manifold vacuum is high, and a higher voltage signal (3.9-4.8 volts) during open throttle when manifold vacuum is low.
    Input voltage (from the PCM) to MAP sensor ranges from 4.8-5.1 volts. Adjustments made as a result of this input will usually affect injector pulse width, ignition timing, idle speed and upshift indicator light


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  • Master
  • 3,489 Answers

This sounds strongly like a bad MAP(manifold absolute pressure) sensor. If you need test procedures, let me know. This sesnor would create this issue and seem like a transmission issue.

Posted on May 27, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • scottbrow May 27, 2010

    i have already tested the map sensor,it is working properly.i also replaced the inline fuel filter. it has no check engine codes on now.

  • Kori Policy
    Kori Policy May 27, 2010

    Lets start then with any maintenance items like spark plugs(champion) and filters(at least this way you know you're not wasting money because they needed to be done anyways). If the MAP tested good then distributor would be in the running for next on the list. Remove the cap and look for heavy build up on the contact points for the cap and the rotor. Let me know.

  • scottbrow May 28, 2010

    as i said originally in my problem description, i have replaced the distributor,cap,rotor,wires,spark plugs,cam position sensor,new transmission filter,rebuilt head,thermostat,temperature sending unit.yesterday i tested the throttle position sensor,it didn't put out the proper voltage with the throttle at wide open position,i bought a new one,it was the same way. which tells me the original sensor is good,there may be a problem with the wiring between the sensor connector and the PCM unit,it started raining ,so i didn't check that yet. when i 1st got the car the MAP sensor code on the check engine was lit,i replaced it,it still was bad,it had a broken wire between the connector and the PCM,i soldered it back together and the check engine light went away.this car has 274,000 + miles on the body,i'm not sure but was told by the previous owner that the motor and transmission were replaced before. they didn't have any receipts to show this,so i'm not sure it's true.

  • scottbrow May 28, 2010

    i have also replaced the air filter,cleaned the throttle body,removed fuel rail and cleaned the end of fuel injectors. i have also added fuel injection cleaner to the last 2 tanks of gas.

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