Question about 1983 Jeep CJ5
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rear Axle Seal Replacement
remove rear tires, then remove brake calipers and rotors, then remove the 4 nuts (each side) that hold the axle shafts to the axle tube (located around the axle tube behind the backing plate) then using a slide hammer pull the axle shafts out, next using a die grinder and an air hammer get he retainer collar and the bearing off (without damaging the axle shaft) then remove the seal and the outer race which will still be in the housing. next put it all back together, make sure the plate with the studs is still on then slide the seal, bearing, then retainer on (all new parts) and using a press push them all the way back on. then is simple reassembly.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
take the rear cover off of the rear end. make sure you have something to let the fluid drain in. turn the carrier until you see a 5/16ths bolt. take the bolt out and let the pin in the center of the carrier slide down enough to be able to slide the axle inward. that will release the c-clip. then when the c-clip i removed you can just pull the axle out of the houseing but mak sure to not let the carrier spin any while you are pulling the axle out.
Posted on Jun 04, 2009
Only place i know of is not free and it's http://www.alldatadiy.com and it will have all your tork information there, you will have to buy a crush sleeve oil seal and other parts to put it back together, and yo will need to know how to set up the gears as well. If you need more information plese post here.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
SOURCE: where do you add brake fluid
Please don't add brake fluid to the engine, you'll ruin it. Brake fluid is added to the Brake Master Cylinder.
Hood open, viewing your Jeep from the front, (Facing the windshield)
The Brake Master Cylinder is on the upper right, mounted fairly close under the windshield.
(If you have Power Brakes it is mounted on a Power Booster. If you do not have power brakes it is mounted directly to the firewall)
This link below will show you what it looks like,
This link shows what the brake master cylinder looks like, not installed. You are looking at the back view of it.
From the mounting flange that has a hole on each side, to the tip of that rod sticking out, is a view you will not see.
The photo is to illustrate the top cover, and the wire looking device that holds the cover on.
Viewing the Jeep from the front, the wire device you see is moved to the ->Right.
A common tool used to move it would be a sturdy flat tip screwdriver.
It is very stiff to move, but be sure you are trying to move it the correct direction.
When you go to fill the master cylinder the proper level for the brake fluid is one-eighth inch below the rim edge. (1/8th inch)
You will see two compartments. You will also see that the master cylinder sits at an angle. It's angled toward the back. The back edge of each compartment's rim edge, is what you use to judge the brake fluid level. (1/8th inch below that edge)
Posted on Sep 05, 2009
With the engine running in neutral, punch it and see if it bogs down. If it it does and all you hear is the carb gasping (for lack of better word) it may be a slight timing issue. Here are a few ideas to try:
Check vacuum advance at the distributor to see if vacuum.
Is the ignition electronic or manual distribution?
File points/check point gap (You could also replace the points and condenser).
Put a timing light to the engine is slightly out of time and adjust.
Hope this helps... Good luck fellow CJ5 Jeepster!
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
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Black horn ground
lt.blue left front turn
blue right front turn
brown hazard power
purple turn signal power
yellow left rear turn
green right rear turn
white brake light input
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