Question about 2000 Lincoln Town Car

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The car overheats when air conditioner is running.

The car will run for about 40 minutes with no problem. Then the temperature gage rises above the normal level. I had the problem a few months ago, and got an oil change, which seemed to solve the problem. A few days ago, the problem reappeared. After driving for two hours with the air conditioner on, the gage began to rise. I turned the air conditioner off, and the gage dropped back to the normal range.

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Get the thermostat replaced.

Posted on May 27, 2010

  • Shuvit2331
    Shuvit2331 Jun 04, 2010

    water pump maybe bad too.

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2003 Suzuki Aerio. Air conditioner works fine at first and on the highway. Once you are in stop and go traffic, the a/c blows warm and the high temp light comes on. It never overheats or smokes or leaks...


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It is normal for the A/C air to warm up a little when stopped. Less airflow thru the condensor. It is normal for the engine temperature gage to rise up to about the 80% mark on its scale before the cooling fan kicks on. The gage will also show about the same reading on the first start of the day, until the thermostat opens.

If the fan(s) are not working properly the A/C air and engine temperature will rise. If you have a belt driven clutch fan, the clutch may be worn out. All cooling fans kinda sound like miniature jet engines when its hot out, more so when the A/C is on. Replacing the clutch is all you can do for a belt driven fan. Electric fans are more complicated....
Check all main power electrical connections first.... Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!

The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two or three of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. Two are hot battery power, and the third is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only two terminal's have power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both sensors.

Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.

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Air conditioner goes from cold to hot when car is parked and running. When the car is going the a/c is nice and cold. 2003 mazda mpv lx


It is normal for the A/C air to warm up a little when stopped. Less airflow thru the condensor. It is normal for the engine temperature gage to rise up to about the 80% mark on its scale before the cooling fan kicks on. The gage will also show about the same reading on the first start of the day, until the thermostat opens.

If the fan(s) are not working properly the A/C air and engine temperature will rise. If you have a belt driven clutch fan, the clutch may be worn out. All cooling fans kinda sound like miniture jet engines when its hot out, more so when the A/C is on. Replacing the clutch is all you can do for a belt driven fan. Electric fans are more complicated....
Check all main power electrical connections first.... Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.
Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.
Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!

The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two or three of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. Two are hot battery power, and the third is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only two terminal's have power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both sensors.

Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.

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