Question about 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee
I was told to put your key into back door, turn back and forth twice. This will reset alarm, I didn't beleive it but it worked. There is also some relays under the glove compartment. Pull the third one from left to right. HERE can find the location and description about fuses and relays (page 7 and next).
If this its right, the factory system has gone bad from the sounds of it; for permanently disarm, check this... normally, you would insert the key in the drivers door, turn left, then right to disarm and reset it. If yours is malfunctioning, you can disable it for good by doing the following:
- The FACTORY ALARM DISARM WIRE IS purple/yellow |-| in the driver kick panel area, at the black plug.
- Once Located, splice into this wire with a simular guage wire, and put it to a solid chassis ground. This terminates the alarm functions entirely.
- However, at this point, this car would be exceedingly easy to steel, so I suggest you get an aftermarket alarm system to protect it from here on in.
I can listen several opinnions from GC owners, it ran fine for 2 hours, then ran crappy for an hour, then died and would not restart. It had sat for a long time before I bought it. It had multiple problems. A list follows of exact symptoms and tips:
1. It would start when cold, run three seconds, then die: cause: Alarm system was shutting off main relay. Solution: under the driver side kick panel, find the yellow and purple wire, splice into it, and ground it out... this will disable the alarm system.
2. Would run for a few minutes, then mis out and eventually die. Problem: clogged fule filter: easy to get to on the early models.
3. Would not start until the igniton was on long enough to let the "check engine light" to come on, then it would start: this was sometimes acompanied by a buzzing or machine-gun type noise from under the hood. Problem: PIN number in the computer wiring harness socket was corroded in two. Could not repair: had to replace whole computer US$.
4. Intermittentily bucks and coughs going down the road: problem: Detrius inside of distributor cap: always buy cap and rotor with brass parts: aluminum does not make a good electrode, and will cause problems inside the distributor when it starts to wear or corrode.
5. Then the vehicle would start, and run really good cold: but as soon as it would warm up, it would not run, and eventually die, and not restart unless the throttle was held to floor, like it was flooded; Problem: the coolant temperature sensor was bad: this is the new equivelant of driving a car with a stuck mechanical choke. This sensor is not the same one that drives the guage on the dash: the computer does not use the gauge sensor, and vice-versa.
Posted on May 26, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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