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Re: a/c quit coming on
Check the a/c clutch with the engine running and the airconditioner on first. If not then check the fuse/relay panel for a blown fuse or bad relay. If all of that is good then check the low pressure switch on passanger side of engine on top of the a/c line. Remove the pluf from switch and use a jumper wire to jump across the terminals in the plug. If the a/c clutch starts working then it is telling you the switch is either bad or you are low on freon. Check all connections on a/c system for any freon leaks. If you find any oily spots on the connections or around behind the clutch;you will need to have it repaired and recharged to correct the problem. Hope this will help you.
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The factory harness is known to have a voltage drop at the clutch which slips the clutch causing heat and melts the clutch coil and burns the oil out of the berrings, your next problem is going to be a siezed idler berring now the pump turns allways while the engine is running, over pressurizes pops something (mine was the evap core, under the dash), then the pump berring goes out spitting metal trash through your whole system. It all in all is a very expensive problem, replace your compressor "now" with an updated version clutch, and replace your harness to the compressor, before this $2500 problem happens to your truck then call dodge and complain! I am on my second compressor at 70k on my 2006 cummins, my compressor supplier said he sells 200 of these a month! Gee do you think its a manufacturers error???
I was having the same issue on my 2006 2500 cummins. The a/c worked fine untill all of a sudden it quit. The a/c compressor would cycle 3 times in about 15 seconds then the clutch would not engage. If you turned the a/c off then back on it would go thriugh that same 3 cycle thing again and then not do anything after that. Here is what I found out, The a/c clutch was going out and it was pulling to much current causing the controle module to abort the request to pull in the a/c cluch. I wired in a relay between the controle mod and the clutch and it ran fine untill the clutch went all the way out. I ended up replacing the the commpressor w/clutch. So far so good.
I'm no expert but I had a similar problem. On October 10th, 2009 I smelled the same thing. I own a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins. It has about 150,000 miles. The next day I checked under the hood and found that the #4 injector tube was leaking and providing a fine mist of diesel fuel all over the engine compartment and firewall. The trouble seemed to be from the plastic clamp that is suppose to hold the tube in place. It was very loose and I feel that is the reason for the break/leak. The leak was right at the compression fitting on the tube where it passes through the nut that connects it to the injector. I called around to find the replacement parts and the dealer wanted about $75 for the tube and about $12 for the plastic clamp. I found the Cummins dealer wanted around $21 for the whole assembly and that included the plastic clamp assembly as well. Don't go to the dealer!!! I replaced the injector tube in about 20 minutes because it took about 10 to find my tool box. The repair was easy and everything is back to 100% fine and no leaks. I believe that if I had to replace injector tube # 5 or 6 it would have been a lot bigger deal because they are so far back and under the firewall. Difficult for someone without any more than standard wrenches. The only trouble I had was getting something of the proper height to stand on for good leverage. This one is a do it yourself and save project. Eric Larson Redlands, CA