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4 cans will be too much
it makes the compressor pump liquid instead of gas and that damages the compressor
it the compressor is still capable of pumping gas then it will go to high head pressures and that will switch the compressor off
you have wasted your money, run the risk of expensive compressor damage , didn't fix the leak that required the gas
The specialist ac shops are not there to take your money but to give you a system that runs without problems so use them to fix the faults and put the right amount of gas in using gauges not cans
Clearly you have a leak inspect your ac compressor and hoses if you cant find it i suggest use die and trace to leak as you know ac system need to be seal 100 percent in order the function i asume you have lose nuts or crack on your hoses its easy fix.
first of all why did you charge the system it never needs to be recharged unless you have a leak in it that being said when you turn on the ac do you hear the compressor clutch kick in and if so do you see condensation on the accumulator and does it feel cold? yes/no if yes then the vacuum door inside the car is not opening thus giving you warm air========if no the refrigerant leaked out again because of a leak ///// or the cycling switch is bad///// or there is still not enough refrigerant in the system to get the switch to turn on the compressor//// or your compressor is n/g
the damage will be a punctured condenser for the ac system
the green oil is the compressor oil that is circulated with the gas
you will not see the gas as it evaporates as soon as it hits the air. Best have an accredited ac specialist shop replace the condenser and any other damaged pipe work
The compressor has nothing to do with the heater box blowing air. The compressor is used to 'compress' a gas and change it to liquid and back to gas, etc to produce cooling eg air conditioning. Your system is leaking gas and dye is sometimes the only way to find a small leak.
Hi. There seems to be a blockage within the system. I will list all parts to be checked by your mechanical. I would also have the blend door linkages or servos inspected for fail points along with the listed areas of concern, below:
Loose or broken drive belt Inoperative compressor or slipping compressor clutch Defective expansion valve Clogged expansion valve, receiver-drier or liquid refrigerant line Blown fuse Leaking component: any of the parts listed above or one of the A/C lines, hoses or seals.
Instruct your mechanic to check all the above, along with the dash blend door linkages for faults.
Below is a guide to troubleshoot and check system function. This can be done by most folks.
Look at the front of the ac compressor and have someone turn on the ac from inside the car. The front of the pulley(clutch) will spin when turned on.
If it does not spin, the low pressure switch (LPS) is not satisfied. Meaning there is not enough freon in the system to operate the system. Means low freon capicity because of a leak.
The LPS can be jumpered to cause the compressor to run (clutch to engaged) which will draw the freon in the system.
The LPS is usually a two wire sensor on the suction of the compressor. (between evaporator and compressor) Unplug the sensor and install a jumper, this will engage the clutch. Connect a new can of freon and fill to system capacity.
The capacity of the ac system will be on a label under the hood, do not overfill. Probably about 2 lbs. Local parts stores (Auto Zone and Advance) will have freon with stop leak. This may help the leak. They also make a freon with a UV dye. I always add a single can with dye so that if stop leak does not work I can find the leak in the future.
The system should be filled until suction pressure is about 30 to 38 psi..
Remember the flow for the a/c system is : 1. From the compressor a high pressure (HP) gas goes to the condenser in front of the radiator. 2. From the condenser a HP liquid goes to an expansion device (orifice tube or expansion valve) 3. From expansion device the low pressure gas enters the firewall to the evaporator. 4. From evaporator the low pressure liquid/gas mixture goes through the dryer back to the compressor suction.
first check your fuses and any relays sometimes you have multible relays that are the same in a fuse box that you can switch around but i would bet you have a leak either in your compressor or in your line if the clutch is not kicking on and off or running all the time when you turn it on thats because your freon has leaked out the system is sealed freon does not go bad if there is no pressure in the system it will just blow warm air your question is vague so if your blower is not blowing bad blower motor or a fuse if warm not getting cold your system has a leak if you have not broke the system you can try stop leak 2 cans to seal a leaky compressor compressor could be bad if it wont spin noisy clutch could be bad need new compressor but if a leak after stop leak add the right amount or r-134a 2 to 3 cans if the compressor kicks on on the first can of stop leak or freon your system did leak down and you hope the stop leak fixes it but first check all your lines are tight and that the freon is not leaking from the high or low pressure ports the valve can leak sometimes make sure your caps are on take some spit after you add freon back into your system see if your spit blows a bubble if it does replace or tighten the valve. a few things to check start with power fuses then add a can of freon if you have power now clutch engagement if you add and kicks on there is the reason a leaky system it will all leak back out in a day or several days... thats why you can add the stop leak things you can try or take it to the shop and pay someone some $$$$$
sounds like a leak. Have your system checked for leaks and re-charged. If the system is full of refrigerant, then check the pressure switch on the compressor and the pressure switch on the accumulator (dryer). If the pressure in the system is low, these switches prevent the compressor from running to prevent damage.